Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I think that I am now the pump meister!

I pulled it out again to see if I could hook up a longer bit of hose to pick up the fuel from lower. I couldn't find any shops with half inch fuel hose (Earl's has it, but they are closed on Sundays) so I had another look at the way it was mounted.

I took the lower hose off and tried mounting the pump around 4-5cm lower on the bracket. This fit perfectly when I put it back in the tank/bracket slot, with the bottom tip of the pump almost touching the fuel tank as it narrows towards the front. So I bent the tip of the bracket up to give it some vertical support (it had none before), put the hose and sock back on in a foward-left direction and put the bracket with pump attached back in.

Not only did it all still fit, but I was actually able to shove the bracket further down into the slot due to reasons unknown (more muscle?). Originally I had it in about halfway, but now it's about 3/4 or 5/6 the way in and much more secure.

If anyone has any questions about fitting their Bosch pump, let me know and I'll do my best to answer. I reckon it's something everyone can do at home in a couple of hours with standard tools. ie, pliers, heavy duty side cutters or hacksaw, simple electrical stuff (solder, iron, terminals etc), screwdrivers, hammer and socket extension (to get lid off), etc.

The results of refitting are: Fuel being picked up from much lower now (so it should run out of fuel much later than before, which was at around 8 litres left previous). Fuel pump noise is a little more but more consistent, because it's now touching the side of the tank, but not moving around as much (if at all). Previously it would kind of "groan" when low on fuel, now it just whines at the same pitch empty or full, except when idling (very quiet).

Did we actually cover the full installation procedure in the other thread about this a few months ago? If not I might do a complete write-up. If Tony wants me to do his I'll even be able to take photos :) (I ain't getting my pump out again just to take photos).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/27385-re-fitted-my-bosch-044-fuel-pump/
Share on other sites

I've had a look with my Maglite and there is no gunk at the bottom of my tank. And as far as I know the factory pump doesn't run you out of fuel @ 56-57 litres as my first Bosch fitting did. I also had surge problems going around fast corners when low on fuel (well, with ~8 litres left?) with my first fitment which was how I could tell I was running out of fuel in the first place (maybe this is a good thing?!)

The sock and filter are there to filter out gunk. Anything finer than what gets through those shouldn't be enough to completely block up an injector. Sure it will slowly clog them up over time, but that's what injector cleaning is for. Every car needs it at some point.

yup... No gunk at bottom of my tank when i was in there.. its pretty damn clean in there.

Think hes trying to imply it could be dangerous if these items were applied non-judiciously.. but its a safe job unless you do something obviously stupid.

Well of course :) Let me explain a bit better for the people that don't understand what goes on then.

The hammer (actually rubber mallet for me) and socket extension is used to bash the plastic cap off the top of the tank. From there, you remove the bracket carefully with your hands (so your tank needs to be nearly empty before you do this otherwise you have to dip your hands in petrol - not good!!!) with the pump attached.

You then remove the pump from the bracket, including undoing the wiring connectors with a small spanner. You then take the bracket over to your workbench and work on it with your cutters/hacksaw - this work takes place nowhere near the car! Unless you're stupid :)

The soldering I think might have to be done in the boot - I can't remember anymore. Either way you're working with a nearly empty tank of fuel. As long as you don't dip your iron in the tank you'll be fine, it's not hot enough to set the fumes off by a long shot. You'd have more problems with your mobile phone igniting it (so keep it well away during this).

Edit: I do realise that even a couple of litres of petrol igniting in your face is still going to cause you some serious grief. But it's still much less of a risk than a full tank. Just be sensible about it and it won't ignite anyway. Premium unleaded is pretty hard to set off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...