Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

is the key way still fitted in the cam?

i had a cas snap on me when running without the front cover, pull the cap off the cas and check the shaft isnt broken, also check the condition of the disc inside.

have you found some one else with the same cas so you can test?

not sure, but everything looked intact.. used a torch to look in and i could see the locator

still no luck finding one to test with....

i was able to start the car after removing the cas earlier, but it died again after 4mins or so, idled perfectly and gave me false hope :blush: .. i saw on the pfc ignition timing peak of 49, not sure if thats relevant

i have read ppl state cas can be turned in either director to make the injectors click and spark plugs spark, however i was only able to get it going in only one direction and it wasnt consistent clicking with the no. of turns (not sure if its meant to be consistent)

Are you getting an RPM signal from the ECU through the hand controller while cranking?

If you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, coil packs firing and compression in the engine.....as long as the timing is correct then it will start.

Try checking timing with a timing light while cranking to see what it comes up as

Are you getting an RPM signal from the ECU through the hand controller while cranking?

If you have fuel pressure, injector pulse, coil packs firing and compression in the engine.....as long as the timing is correct then it will start.

Try checking timing with a timing light while cranking to see what it comes up as

im only getting RPM signal on PFC controller intermittently, its when I do see it, im able to get it to startup on occassions, otherwise 95% of the time, no RPM action

  • 1 month later...

im having a similar issue to DRFT33

when i crank the engine normlly it wont start

but if i turn the cas prior to cranking it starts and runs.

also if i let it sit idling for a while then turn it off. most times it will start up again without removing the cas.

car is an r32 gts-4 with an rb25neo

what could be the problem?

  • 4 months later...

Hi

long time reader, first post :P, old thread bump but here goes...

I have exactly the same issue with my rb30/26

cranking the cas manually arcs my plugs out and spark is visible and you can smell fuel.

tried all the things that BWRGTR tried and more. had the timing cover off, comp test tried everything but the cas + afm

takin the afm out of my mates pathfinder makes it stall instantly and doesnt turn over, seems like a similar noise to the skyline when it tried to turn.

but apparently it sohuld start without the maf plugged in?

been workin on it non stop for 4 days seriously at the end of the rope lol

could it be the starter?

any input or ideas would be great cuz me and the boys are completely stumped.

Edited by pedl0r

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...