Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a bit of a problem with my 32 GTR when it is cold it starts and runs perfectly and no issue on boost. Only problem is after about 15 mins of driving it misfires under boost and when i turn it off it wont start again. It sounds like its got no fuel or spark but its getting fuel to the rail.

It winds over fast and then seems like it wants to go then just keeps winding over. But when i let it cool down for a bit it starts again without too much hesitation.

Its running a Power fc

Any help would be appreciated

Ignitor pack or CAS would be the two likely suspects given what you have said.

More so Ignitor pack as you say its angry when warm, this is the most common symptom.

To check, get some freeze spray from Dick Smith or something, and spray the ignitor box (black rectangular box at the rear most part of the valley cover)... if it springs to life after an immediate cooldown then thats 110% your problem

looks like it is the ignitor pack. i took it for a drive yesterday and when i got hot and wouldnt start i removed the ignitor pack and let it cool down for 5 mins put it back on and it started straight up.

Are the ignitor packs readily available or can you buy them new from nissan?

Nissan want $900

I think UAS (Unique Auto Sports) do a reco change-over for about $350 which is pretty resonable.

Otherwise... a 2nd hand one... you could have the same problem again in 6 months ;)

thanks for your help mate. I brought one off ebay for $130 so ill see how that goes. And if it fixes the problem than i at least have a spare that i will get exchanged.

I went for a drive before to a mates house to try his ignitor which is differant so it didnt work and then when i finally got it going again it was only running on 4 cylinders. So im just waiting for it to cool down and ill see if it will start.

I need it running properly for next weekend ill be taking it to WSID for a full day

well ive replaced the coils, ignitor pack and the coil loom isnt much good im off to just jap to get one of them in the morning. The issue with it misfiring under boost may be fixed but still no spark on number 4 coil. ive tested the loom and all the joins etc are ok.

Any idea on what would be causing it to not spark on the one cylinder?

just had an auto electrician look at the car all the wiring is ok looks like the power fc is rooted. there is no output on one of the coils from the computer. Im going to pick up the standard one from the previous owner and see if that fixes it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, i’m making a rb25det coil loom for Vag short coil. Can anybody tell me which Ecu signal wire belong to coil number 1 and 2,3,4,5,6? The connecting switch in above pic is 8 wire i think white is for +12v and black for earth.
    • Was there ever a model of the Stagea m35 that didnt have a badge on the grill? I thought I saw that somewhere, some aero edition or something? I cant find it again? davemoto
    • Its a 2002 vr-x four VQ25DET, silver. Coil overs, lowered, polished alloys and sport exhaust. Bit of a project, was sitting in a shed for a while but runs and drives great.
    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
×
×
  • Create New...