Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Wondering if someone can gimme a hand.

The battery in my car died on Saturday night, stupid me fell victim to leaving headlights on ... oops.

Anyways, grabbed some jumper leads and started it, all good. However, since then I have noticed that it is not achieving 16psi boost which it is programmed for ... it's topping out at about 6psi. I have a Blitz Dual-SBC boost controller.

Anyone have any idea on what could have happened? Could it just be the "Mode" ? If so it's currently sitting on Mode 2 (options of 1,2,3,M of course) so if I change the mode would that make a difference? Never had to play around with one before :thumbsup:

PS: Also, I have the instruction maual/product manual but it really is not that helpful. 12 pages long and nothing useful.

Cheers,

-Chris

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/
Share on other sites

Sorry mate, EBC?

I spoke to X-speed and they reckon that these things cannot reset just by battery losing charge as they store their programming. Not sure about that though, think he was just trying to sell me dyno time. So I am thinking that it could be something like just the mode it's set on at the moment.............

ECU is PowerFC

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657330
Share on other sites

Stuff it, decided to do it the fun way. Took it for a spin around the block and changed the "MODE" on the boost controller and gave it a bit each time, went from 0.6 bar to 1.1bar in the space of 2 settings. Must have just reset to default MODE when the battery died.

Thank f**k for that heh.

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657374
Share on other sites

I spoke to X-speed and they reckon that these things cannot reset just by battery losing charge as they store their programming. Not sure about that though, think he was just trying to sell me dyno time.

How they they be trying to sell you dyno time by telling you the settings cannot just 'reset'.

They are telling you that it has not lost settings, which was what your question right. They couldn't have given a better answer :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657466
Share on other sites

Should have clarified. He told me that the settings will not have reset because the controller keeps it's program onboard, but that I should take it down there and book in some dyno time so they could "check and make sure". When really all the "checking" I needed to do was turn a dial and stick the "go" pedal in a bit.

As for the company, I'd still have no one else but them perform work to my car. Wasn't having a go, was an observation over something trivial :P

Edited by stormtrooper
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657488
Share on other sites

lol indeed

Should have clarified. He told me that the settings will not have reset because the controller keeps it's program onboard, but that I should take it down there and book in some dyno time so they could "check and make sure". When really all the "checking" I needed to do was turn a dial and stick the "go" pedal in a bit.

As for the company, I'd still have no one else but them perform work to my car. Wasn't having a go, was an observation over something trivial :)

Or... you could have gone down there and they would probably have noticed it was a minor setting once on the dyno and not even charged.

You can't blame a business for proper business practices mate... Diagnosis with sensors, straps, legally etc is the best way.

Often small things like that are quick fixes and often you'll find out of 'good will' you wont get charged or it'll be very minor.. which is fair enough considering it was you who let ya battery go flat afterall :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657536
Share on other sites

Whoa, ease up on the criticism. No need for it. I SAID it was my fault, I don't need you badgering me for it.

I'm just a little dubious because everyone and anyone want to charge people for things these days, everyone has a right to be a little guarded in that regard, I have NO issue whatsoever shelling out the cash for it IF I think it's warranted/necessary. Just for the fact that he said that they don't reset themselves and that he still wanted to dyno it, telling me was $176 an hour (no worries as I said no issue) just seemed a little sus.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/274791-boost/#findComment-4657564
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ah. OK. I take it back. I hadn't looked closely at the R33/4 arms and presumed that GKTech did as GKTech do everywhere else, which is to use sphericals there. The poly bushings are made to be 100% interchangeable, should use the standard bolt just fine. Every other bush in every other place in pretty much every other car, does.
    • @silviaz Ok cool, so much easier with a video. I can see why this video would be confusing for new players.   It is obvious that this entire bonnet is going to be resprayed, have a look in the background around 2:05, you can see a bunch of bare metal on the left side of the bonnet.  It's not an issue for the primer being laid down on the non-prepped clear on the bonnet. It will be sanded off at a later stage.  This might not be obvious to new players, but working on bare metal and factory paint in this instance, the factory paint is like a mountain and the bare metal is a huge valley. The bonnet needs to be levelled flat before it receives it's final stage of colour and clear coat. During this levelling process, the primer that is landing on the clear that you are worried about will be removed.  Also, this guy is out of control. Zero PPE while spraying, maybe he is a good example overall about what not to do lol.
    • Ok I FINALLY found a video lol. This took way longer than it should have as I could have sworn I saw multiple videos like this. I kept finding the completely opposite (the correct way of doing this). I wouldn't be surprised if I f**ked this up somehow.  I just realised where I've been getting confused and even with other things I work on. I haven't been doing things the regular way instead I'm going a roundabout way of doing things, like putting epoxy primer first then filler for example instead of putting just filler then primer on top of that, then wondering what happens if I get that primer on the clear coat that I haven't sanded yet. This was a bit of an epiphany 😂  But anyways, here this video. Time stamp, 2:56, some of the primer lands on the paint unscuffed above. You can see from the reflection it looks shiny.  
    • It does, this part circled in red. I assume the OEM bolt might not work well with the poly bushing because the dimensions may be different?
    • The J arm doesn't have bushes either. Assuming that by "J arm" you mean the part of the upright that runs down from the upper arm's outer bushes to the top of the hub. That has a kingpin style bearing in it. If you meant the lower control arm, it has 1 bush, at its inner end. If you have PU in there, that is superior to Nismo rubber. If you meant the caster/tension rod - it has 1x bush at the front end, and again PU is superior to Nismo rubber. But as I said above, I would definitely get the GKTech arms for that, as sphericals slay all other options there.
×
×
  • Create New...