Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Welshpool & O'Connor u can just rock up and have an inspection, but for East Perth, Warwick, Midland and Kelmscott you need to book.

The cops only have to find one thing wrong with your car to defect it, but then again the police do abuse their powers so your car doesnt really have to have anything wrong with it....

  • Replies 70
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

this ruling went out about 3 years ago

ruling is now 1.25

ie:: r32 gtr stock runs 16 x 8 equates to 16x1.25 = 20 //// 8x1.25 = 10

therefore a r32 gtr can legally now run 20x10 rims

this was explained to me by Reno the head guy at welshpool pits when i got my gtr registered with 17x9's on it

so a gtst stock is 16 by 7 so we can go to 20 by 8.75 max legally. is this right?

stock gtst rims are 6.5 i think.

Im pretty sure the constitution leaves road rules to the states? Meaning that a national code of practise isnt going to be valid unless the states have forfeited their constitutional rights to govern this?

I got that info off the state site, its quite possible its outdated, but it seems odd it would still be up if it is.

Maximum passenger car tyre and rim width

Tyres fitted to passenger cars or passenger car derivatives must not be more than 30% wider than vehicle manufacturer's widest optional tyre.

The rim width must not exceed the recommendations for the tyre fitted.

For example, if the original widest optional tyre is 185mm, the maximum tyre width is 1.3 times 185mm = 240.5mm, ie a 235mm wide tyre. The maximum rim width for a 235mm tyre is 9 inches if the aspect ratio is 60 or below.

NCOP11_Section_LS_Suspension_and_steering_3Feb2006.pdf this is downloadable from http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/veh...n/vsb_ncop.aspx

Page 17 has a table to help. check it out.

Edited by StageaGirl

found it my guess is that it would be the 45 in 235*45*17

Aspect Ratio:

When buying a rim that is larger than stock, you must change the aspect ratio of the tire, too. This will keep your speedometer reading correctly. When you “upsize” your wheel, the aspect ratio will be smaller than stock. This gives your wheels and tires a wider contact patch, improving cornering ability.

Using a smaller than recommended Aspect Ratio means you have less rubber to absorb impact that can damage your rim. It also reduces the amount of contact your tires have with the road.

Using a larger than recommended Aspect Ratio increases the ride height, and will make your speedometer read slower than actual speed. It can also cause rubbing in the wheel wells. It affects steering stability, and will make your car feel floaty when cornering.

Edited by Pal
When is your car booked in at Joes Mr. Auto? I'll go to his shop and swap em over for the day :P

I'm calling him in a little while (just woke up... I'm a bit of a nightowl because I work late nights) to sort it out & I'll let you know.

I'm perfectly happy for you to grab em (I'll be dropping it as early as possible in the morning) as long as they're properly back on the car when I pick it back up :P

Don't want any of this lol

Edit: PMing you details

Edited by Psyrus

i got stickered yesterday in collie for my camber wear on my tires an they made me get my car towed back to bunbury at my cost of $250 i wasnt happy one bit,

does anyone know the rules of ride height might just take it to a dodgy garage an give em a carton :) jk

i got stickered yesterday in collie for my camber wear on my tires an they made me get my car towed back to bunbury at my cost of $250 i wasnt happy one bit,

does anyone know the rules of ride height might just take it to a dodgy garage an give em a carton :laugh: jk

What is it with cops giving stickers now and saying tow the car... that is as good as a red sticker which have not been around for years and years...

I would like to know the law that says they can do this, as they are suggesting that you must now tow the car to the mechanics to get fixed and then to the pits before it is drivable...

What is it with cops giving stickers now and saying tow the car... that is as good as a red sticker which have not been around for years and years...

I would like to know the law that says they can do this, as they are suggesting that you must now tow the car to the mechanics to get fixed and then to the pits before it is drivable...

Technically they could only make you tow it if the wear on the tyres was that bad that it would be dangerous to continue driving. How bad the camber wear is depends on that, but in this weather maybe it could have been justified....

However to do that, really the yellow sticker should be timed & dated to when they write it up, leaving no other option but to tow it, otherwise they can let you drive off again, pull you over after 20m & fine you for driving with an expired yellow sticker ~$600....

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...