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Hi, have fallen in love with a new ride, so my baby is up for sale. The wife says 2 cars in the garage is more than enough, so the 34 has to go :D

Black R34GTT

RB25DET

Tiptronic Auto

157,xxxkm - but replaced suspension, radiator, trans cooler, turbo etc etc.

Never been 1/4 mile or track raced - used primarily as my work vehicle, not weekend racer.

JJR FMIC

HKS Cat-back Exhaust

Apexi Exhaust Control Valve

XForce high flow cat

Advance stainless steel bellmouth front/dump pipe

HKS 25/30 Turbo

Walbro 255lph in tank fuel pump

Cooling Pro Radiator

Upgraded Tranmission Oil Cooler

Engine Oil cooler kit with braided lines

GTR copy front bar (standard bar can be fitted instead if you prefer)

Apexi Power intake pod

CAI air box

6,000k HIDs

Autobahn88 Silicon Radiator hoses

Autobahn88 Slicon induction pipe

JVC single din MP3 playable stereo

DLS split front speakers

Sony Xplod rear speakers

Autometer triple gauges (Water, Oil temp, Boost psi)

Twin Thermo fans (near new)

Leatherette front seat covers

RDA gold passivated slotted & dimpled rotors (fitted 4 weeks ago)

ADR approved braided brake lines (fitted 4 weeks ago)

Motul Dot5 brake fluid (whole system drained and bled through 4 weeks ago)

QFM HPX brake pads (fitted 4 weeks ago)

Gold 17" Rays Gram Lights 57C rims

Sydneykid spec adjustable height Bilsteins

Sydneykid spec Whiteline springs and adjustable sway bars

Viper alarm with active keyfob monitoring, break/tilt sensors, 4 point immobilisation and remote start/window windup

Factory etched/tinted privacy glass rear windows

Nismo clear front and side indicators

Dyno 225rwkw with safe Willall Racing tune. See dyno graph attached - under 12psi boost. Turbo and setup is good for much more boost, but we kept it conservative with a bleed valve at 12psi. More boost could easily be fed in for more power with the addition of an electronic boost controller.

Very comfortable to drive, and hasn't missed a beat. Water pump and thermostat replaced 20,000km ago. Most mods done in the past 18 months. Car was brought in from Japan through Prestige Motorsport by myself around 3.5 years ago.

Many original parts available for sale or with the car pending negotiations.

Religiously serviced with Motul 8100 every 5,000km. Trans fluid changed 20,000km ago. Freshly serviced incl. Platinum plugs.

Tiptronic auto with steering controls is simply awesome. Don't knock it until you have tried it - excellent response and no more missing gears or heavy/difficult twin plate clutches. You can cruise like a granny when you want to, or drive you like you stole it with steering wheel F1 style gear controls.

Pics attached are from various times in recent history, will post pics of freshly painted front bar and new boot below.

Totalled receipts for above mods at $12,000 all spent in the past 3.5 years. That is the price of parts only. All of the mods above would total over $19k purchased and installed.

Currently insured with Just Cars for agreed value of $24,000 including all mods listed and included. Costs me around $1,000 per year insurance, over 25 Rating 1.

$24,000 ono. Can arrange shipping Aus wide for around $500 or less. Happy to contribute to flight costs of interested interstate buyers.

Price drop to $20,000 - need to move this car people.

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Something a bit newer for work that I can depreciate the heck out of to get rid of some tax :D

Sad to see her go - really is an awesome car. Quick too, needless to say.

sorry to see you sell your car andrew, but I think mine is going up for sale in the next few days as well, Im heading to TT Supra land instead

Dual din DVD player/stereo removed and replaced with a JVC MP3 deck.

Sub box, 12" Alpine sub and Boss amp removed.

DLS splits left in the doors and will go with the car.

Price drop $22k - or $21k with R33 stockies.

Photo below taken on Monday. Car can be sold with the stock bar currently on, or freshly painted R34GTR style bar.

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  • 3 weeks later...

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  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
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