Jump to content
SAU Community

Audio For The Rs4s

atomaly

By atomaly,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

atomaly Rising Star

atomaly

Posted
Posted (edited)

i've had a head unit installed so far.

Alpine ida - X305

i've got an Alpine 10" type R sub in a box that my mate is gonna give to me.

wondering what amps to get..

i was hoping to install the amps in the side compartments in the back where the factory CD stacker goes (i didnt get one tho :) )

or in one of the lift up compartments in the back. i dont want to be mounting anywhere custom as i cringe about someone hacking at my interior.

the easier, the better

so far i was thinking of getting an Alpine MRP-F300 for the speakers (not changing them as of just yet)

and an Alpine MRP-M500 for the sub :P

will give me a bit of extra bass thats tight cos thats all i'm looking for at the moment.

i'll be having the sub set up against the back seats i think.

any ideas from anyone ? :)

do i need to go that far with 2 amps? or is there an easier option for some extra bass.

i might have a go at installing it myself..... although i'm sure i may need some help :)

Edited by atomaly
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/275431-audio-for-the-rs4s/
Share on other sites
infiltrator Community Regular

infiltrator

Posted
Posted

better change the speakers, especialy if you have the factory ones, they wont handle the extra power of a power amp.

any help you need just ask mate, im in preston and work in port melb, just let me know :P

atomaly Rising Star

atomaly

Posted
  • Author
Posted
better change the speakers, especialy if you have the factory ones, they wont handle the extra power of a power amp.

any help you need just ask mate, im in preston and work in port melb, just let me know :ermm:

thanks man :P i'm only going to be running the factory speakers until i can afford some alpines or something.

so u say for the moment just get the mono amp and run the sub? and get the other amp when i get the new speakers?

too_much_boost Mentor

too_much_boost

Posted
Posted

Why not get a 5channel? Jaycar sell digital 5 channel amps that will run your whole system and can easily fit under either of the front seats (Good for keeping thieves away)

I have one of their digital 4 channels under my seat running my front MB Quart 6.5in splits and my cadence sub and it does a mighty fine job

infiltrator Community Regular

infiltrator

Posted
Posted
Why not get a 5channel? Jaycar sell digital 5 channel amps that will run your whole system and can easily fit under either of the front seats (Good for keeping thieves away)

I have one of their digital 4 channels under my seat running my front MB Quart 6.5in splits and my cadence sub and it does a mighty fine job

thats a great idea too, means 1 amp and everythings done... less wiring to worry about, no power distros and the like.

My set up in the stag is rather big, 2x Alpine MRD-M300 mono amps running the 2 Type S 12" subs, 1 x Alpine MRV-F540 4 Ch running the front splits (Active, 75W into each woofer and tweeter) :P:ermm:.. Fronts are Focal polyglass 165's

upgrades are a few more amps, 1 for the 8" Mids that are going in the doors and 2 for the 5" Subs that will be going in the front foot wells ;):(

atomaly Rising Star

atomaly

Posted
  • Author
Posted
thats a great idea too, means 1 amp and everythings done... less wiring to worry about, no power distros and the like.

My set up in the stag is rather big, 2x Alpine MRD-M300 mono amps running the 2 Type S 12" subs, 1 x Alpine MRV-F540 4 Ch running the front splits (Active, 75W into each woofer and tweeter) :D:D .. Fronts are Focal polyglass 165's

upgrades are a few more amps, 1 for the 8" Mids that are going in the doors and 2 for the 5" Subs that will be going in the front foot wells :):)

sounds like a good idea.. i'm having a look at the new range.. the Alpine PDX-5 is a 5 channel but the output for the sub is only 2 ohms?? huh? i thought 4 ohms was standard for car audio?

the Alpine MRV-F450 V12 also sounds like a good option. its 5 channel 4ohm.

its discontinued but i may be able to pick one up second hand!.. i presume though that the newer amps would be "better" though in most aspects??

i also had an opinion to just get a 4 channel amp. bridge 2 for the sub output and go for high quality splits in the front. since my rear door ones are probably no point having since i barely have rear passengers!

home audio is so much easier :)

amp: Yamaha receiver.

fronts: Aaron Ats-4

Centre: Aaron CC-120

rears: Aaron Ats-3

samsung series 6.. 46" HD LCD TV

seeeeeeeee :P

i'll prob pop into Stylyn on a weekend when i get some free time see what they think :spam:

infiltrator Community Regular

infiltrator

Posted
Posted

subs are either Alpine subs now are either Dual 4 ohm or Dual 2 ohm, the dual 2's are good if you have got the amps to run an either 2 or 1 ohm loads, the dual 4's are nicer for normal guys that arent into SPL. i think ill be running 4x dual 2ohm. in a series parallel system... big bass :P

also try Garry's car radio Heidleberg, and GL Pro sound in essendon for price comparrasons.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...