Jump to content
SAU Community

Where To Place Map Sensor For New Vipec Install

GTR1993

By GTR1993,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey, just swapping over to my vipec plugin next week. I have always heard about issues with individual throttle bodies and map sensors. Where is the best place to take the reference from for my map sensor?

I done a search and came up with more questions then answers.

I know power fc says to drill and tap in 3 and 4 runners after the TBs, some say to go off the balance tube. I have only worked with single TB cars with map sensors before.

Cheers

Edited by GTR1993
BoostedBarge Rising Star

BoostedBarge

Posted
Posted

My Vipec is just teed off the FPR vacuum line. No dramas here.

I've been considering moving it to the rear vacuum line where the stock boost gauge is used, just so that it looks tidier. It looks like that point would be at the same pressure. Anyone got any feedback?

GTR1993 Mentor

GTR1993

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yea i was thinking the same, it "should" be fine as the FPR needs a fairly stable vacuume source anyway, and the balance tube on top if feeding the reg. Should be fine for the map sensor. I just wanted to check.

Also does the vipec plugin use the standard inlet temp sensor on the rb26 of you install your own?

Cheers

Swiper the Fox Grand Master

Swiper the Fox

Posted
Posted
Yea i was thinking the same, it "should" be fine as the FPR needs a fairly stable vacuume source anyway, and the balance tube on top if feeding the reg. Should be fine for the map sensor. I just wanted to check.

Also does the vipec plugin use the standard inlet temp sensor on the rb26 of you install your own?

Cheers

you can use either....you configure it in the software.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...