Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I need some help.

I have a RB20DET which i am modding but it is also my daily so cannot afford to have it off the road at all really.

Current set up is:

RB20DET

Stock Turbo

Dump into 3 inch through to cannon

Adjustable cam gears

GTR fuel pump

New mods will be:

ATR28G3 turbo

Z32 AFM

GTR Injectors

The current motor is apart getting the head fixed (exhaust stud broken)

I have never put mods on before so i am wondering how and which order i can put them on with the car making it still drivable.

I pick up the turbo this weekend and can put on the car now, but i dont want to get the tune done yet because i dont have the injectors or AFM.

Can i put it on and still drive it under low boost until i get the tune?

Secondly can the AFM go on without a tune and still run?

I know the injectors are a pretty much no go as it will be putting in twice the fuel.

So can i mod this in anyways without the tune straight up..

I will be looking at a Power FC a little down the track once the funds come back in.

I hope this makes sense, as im a n00b to modding.

looking forward to hearing your thoughts.

Thanks Heaps!!

Turbo can be put on car and driven. Just keep boost low cause car not tuned to it.

AFM and injectors wont work on car without tune.

AFM only takes about 30mins-1hr to wire in.

Injectors can take a day if you have everything available.

I installed injectors and afm into my car with no prior experience, pretty straight forward.

Have a look at my thread for more info; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Gt...20-t256804.html

You wont be able to drive the car with z32 afm and/or gtr injectors.

You will need to get it tuned for it to drive.

What i did was buy nistune board www.nistune.com and soldered it into my ecu.

Then took it to Status Tuning who loaded a base tune map on my ecu so I could drive it to his place for a tune.

Although the tune was used from a similar car with similar mods as mine, the car wouldnt rev over and struggled real bad. Had to limp it to status tuning for a proper tune.

Look into nistune for your tuning. I

Nistune board costs about $250~ and then you will need to get it tuned, should be around $600? i think, best calling Status Tuning for prices.

Status tuning also do a tune+nistune package I believe (drive in-drive out), just let him know you want to install injectors/afm and limp it to his place. He will then give you a base map to drive it over :)

If you need any help let me know, as I can see you are in Melbourne too :P

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...