Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Right, so I'm getting the bits 'n pieces together to convert my Ceffy to use an RB25DET gearbox and one of the differences is the speedo drive (electronic in an R33 Skyline vs mechanical in the Cefiro).

So...instead of buying the Navara speedo drive, mangling it and then having to either live with my speedo being out or going to get it adjusted....is there a relatively cost-effective way to swap to using an electronic speedo? Did a bit of Googling but nothing obvious came up....

Cheers,

Matt

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276394-electronic-speedo-convert/
Share on other sites

Here are some of my ideas.

Get your hands on an R33 cluster, disassemble it and try to fit the speedo section into your cefiro cluster. Can't guarantee this will be accurate as you will probably stuff the calibration when you remove and replace the needle.

Alternatively, get a cluster from a 180sx (or maybe S13) the models with a HUD had a digital readout on the cluster, you could put that into your cluster.

Either that or try and make the clusters fit in your dash, though you'll have to rewire the plugs on the back of the cluster.

You'll probably find the speedo will still be inaccurate depending on things like converting to manual from auto, different diff ratio, wheel/tyre size.

At least with an electronic speedo you can buy frequency adjusters from places like jaycar, Then you can compare it to something like a GPS and tweak the calibration yourself.

you could get an HKS Camp, Apexi Multichecker or any other digital readout device and plug it straight into your ECU. No gurantees on if it'll be accurate though. I use an Apexi Multichecker on my 32 as my speedo's out by a little bit.

  • 3 months later...

some what funny.. i had the same problem every one says change the speedo sensor. get your hands on a b14 sentra instrument panel. this speedometer is eletric and fits exactly into place of ypur old cable type one. run four wires coming out the back of it and hook it up only problem is it only goes to 180. but other than that u could change the wallpaper to match back your original instrument panel i did this conversion on a c33 instrument panel works fine.

  • 2 weeks later...
why not use the navara speedo sender and mount the r33 speedo wheel on it, still use the cable?

to me modifying that gear to fit wouldnt exactly be balance i rather just leave vital moving parts as is and looked for a alternative. mine works very well up to now and in my country i couldnt source the navara speedo so i just say lemme tell u guys what i did

  • 4 weeks later...
you could get an HKS Camp, Apexi Multichecker or any other digital readout device and plug it straight into your ECU. No gurantees on if it'll be accurate though. I use an Apexi Multichecker on my 32 as my speedo's out by a little bit.

But where does that electric signal to the ECU come from? I thought the speedo in the dash did the conversion from mechanical to electrical and sent it to the ECU?

I guess you could wire up the multichecker directly to the output on the R33 gearbox, though I seem to remember somewhere that the speedo still does some kind of conversion, meaning the speedo converts the electrical into a different format before sending it on to the ECU, in which case this plan wouldn't work. Best check an R33 wiring diagram to see if I'm talking out of my arse or not.

Also a Defi VSD would probably be a better option than a multichecker. That is what I'm using with my stock Ceffy to get an MPH readout since I'm in the UK. It works very well as my sole speedo.

Edited by Lum

Lum is correct, the speedometer converts the cable speed to an electrical signal and sends it to the ECU.

I would suspect that in the vehicles with speed sensors on the gearbox, that it goes directly to the ECU.

Items like the speed checker and defi VSD plug into the consult connector, which uses a serial connection to communicate and retrieve data from the ECU, so it is highly unlikely that you would beable to connect the speed sensor directly to any of these.

all you need is a navara speedo sender, the r33 speedo sender gear, mount the two together, make another cut in the navara speedo sender, works a treat. if thats too hard, use the navara whole unit but your speedo will be out by about 30ks at 1oo. the cefiro speedo cable will screw straight into the navara speedo sender, no need to modify the speedo cable

If i may also....what do the 25SE use?

Theyve got RB25DE, so would they have a 25 gearbox?

and if so...would they use eletrical or cable?

Either way, go to NZ and find a smashed up 25SE (yeah its sad but thats what they do over there).

Pretty sure the 25SE and the gts-25 use the smaller gearboxes (same as rb20).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...