Jump to content
SAU Community

Apexi Avcr

R33_Rob

By R33_Rob,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R33_Rob Proficient

R33_Rob

Posted
Posted

Hi Guys,

Buying an Apexi AVCR very soon.

Just want to know if i can hook up an external switch (i.e. not by pressing a switch on the avcr face) to change between hi and low boost?

My idea is to have a switch on my dash which allows me to run low boost, then when i punch this switch the AVCR switches to high boost setting.

Does anyone know if this is possible?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276576-apexi-avcr/
Share on other sites
Roy Grand Master

Roy

Posted
Posted

Excuse the incorrect use of language, but you dont want to use a missile switch. The AVC-R has two boost settings so yo ujust go to the setting you want to run. A missile switch is a two pole( Language???) switch . You want a sinle contact button so that only whilst pressed it will complete the circuit thus giving you the scramble

I have a button on my old steering wheel for it. Though i never really had enough power to justify using it. I actually used it to drop boost with the scramble feature. So when launching in 1st gear i only had 8psi then in the higher gears i used to use the normall Setting B high boost setting of 15psi on my std turbo. Like i said never really had enough power to justify using it that way, maybe make use of it now that i have more power but i dont run it anymore :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276576-apexi-avcr/#findComment-4682595
Share on other sites
paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

whats the point? why not just tune the car for the maximum possible safe boost you can run

and use the avcr tuning ability to curve the duty to correct wheelspin etc

most people break things when their car is setup for a safe level

and they have a switch to go higher "for short runs"

if you run higher, why not run higher all the time

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/276576-apexi-avcr/#findComment-4682608
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • jtha7
      Replacing turbo water line - any recommendations or advice?

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • MBS206
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
    • MBS206
      Lock up the old for sale / wtb threads.

      By MBS206 · Posted

      That's all good, I thought I was missing some interesting feature! Maybe @PranK can double check if that is something that is meant to be operating or not.
    • Kapr
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Kapr · Posted

      I hope that is not something that bad. From what i remember he said that only first gear is "hard" to get in and that he has couple of ideas what to try next but idk 😕  hope it is not gearbox out. I will let you know.
    • GTSBoy
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it's not the hydraulics, it is probably gearbox back out. Usually as per @Duncan's post, or otherwise associated with not getting the throwout fork positioned correctly. All the way up to catastrophically bolting shit back together without it being aligned properly and wrecking the clutch/input shaft/flywheel/something else.
×
×
  • Create New...