Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As above guys.

Am after ADR Approved braided brake lines for my R33 GTST. I want to buy from a place that can pretty much just send me the right ones without me having to take mine out and send them to replicate as i dont have the time for it.

Your advice is much appreciated.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/279091-adr-approved-braided-brake-lines/
Share on other sites

I got mine from here:

BrakeWest Pty Ltd

129-131 McIntyre Road

Sunshine North Vic 3020

(03) 9313 7555

(03) 9313 7575

email: [email protected]

I was dealing with Goran. ADR Approved and posted very promptly, great service.

Goran at Brakewest! Good quality, very quick and great to deal with! I took photos of my stock R34 GT brake lines, annotated with measurements, and he made and sent custom lines to suit GTSt calipers the same day and got it overnight!

ADR are NOT suited for any sort of serious track work. Please be VERY careful if tracking your ADR lines hard.

EDIT: from BrakeWest anyway... that's why they have a CAMS approved braided line

ADR are NOT suited for any sort of serious track work. Please be VERY careful if tracking your ADR lines hard.

EDIT: from BrakeWest anyway... that's why they have a CAMS approved braided line

Why would they? The only main difference i can see is the rubber collars for the whiplash test they do for adr approval.

i think i was going overboard with "all ADR lines", but this is what came up with the brakewest group buy. And i did confirm this at the time, and that's why they started offering a CAMS approved line. Maybe it was just the way that brakewest did their ADR lines? I then mistakenly applied that to all ADR lines, but i know i did confirm a performance application difference between the two from brakewest at least.

i'll see if i can dig the details out of the group buy

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...