paulR32gtr

Been pottering on it last few weekends. Red back evictions completed. Got a battery back in and redid some of the lugs to accomodate larger bolts into the new batteries poles. Fuel gague read empty with the fuel light coming on every now and then so I tried to drop in 25l of fresh 98 and it almost overflowed. So just drained the tank out with the fuel pump. Not sure what to do with the 65 litres of varnish I pulled out. Fingers crossed fresh fuel helps the cause and I can get it out for a wash.

Brakes completely transformed, zero gripes with them now. Consistent progressive reliable pedal, endless stopping, didn't lock a wheel all weekend on very old A050s. Setup is: Front AP CP5555 calipers, some might say are too small for the rotor but they work so eh Front rotor 375x36/5mm Front pads Pagid RS29 Rear standard rebuilt calipers with some Project Mu pads on stock solid rotors Fresh BM50 + booster GKTech ABS delete kit

Seems I never uploaded any of my footage for 2012 or 2013. Will remedy. This car will be getting some love shortly now the 32 is moving. There is a good 2 hours of evicting red back families slated for first mod.

Actually if you don't mind can you pls rename tarmac to track @Duncan! That missing "rally" typo has haunted me since 2010 😅

Never tarmac rallies with this, but did got along to a few in my 34 which I still have. Hoping to do a few more at some point in the not too distant future. This car will remain track fun focused free from any rules. Getting back in to some events, some goodies to be added in due course. Doing the 6hr Phillip Island relay in it this weekend, with a few of the SAU Vic crew. Will be strange not trying to go full pace but will be good fun weekend with mates. You still competing in anything?

We’re back baby, 3 kids / 7 iPhones later

Delete ABS for now

Damn been revving the kids up for car museum ... COVID 😠

Top work mate! Love that bay. Lots of work in there between the gearbox and the squirming on the striats - you weren't joking!

Ran it through OCR and google translate ... pretty useless still 😄 --- For lubrication and sealing of the slottle butterfly 444 TOMEI Throttle coat'Throttle J (Applying to the butterfly improves the airtightness L Prevents hunting of the idle ring and suppresses galling. Also, smoothes the closing of the throttle butterfly. It is an effective lubricant for the maintenance of the throttle part, which causes various traps depending on the sliding state. ■ Brake for sealing and galling prevention of slot tol butterfly in such a part (To prevent squealing of the pad (Please do not use it for chamfering) Oil "" For the rotating part of the national rib that spits eggs ■ Advantages Dry lubrication using Niken Kamorifuden as the main raw material. Weekly finish with a brain thickness of 10 microns. Can be applied on a brushed container with a self-driving turret type. Modo left dance is peeled off beans ■ However, please talk about the can well before using it. Nidake Molybdenum needle is sunk in the bottom of a heavy knitting can Use the attached brush to scrape well. ”Tsu spatula, etc. 蕊 Please give me A It can be quasi-fabricated. M noise Figure Rin

Definitely clarify if they want them open or closed when left to dry. Thinking it might actually be best left open. Might be someone floating around here that can translate this (Japan section) - or even ask whoever you bought it off.

Report back if you can, be good to hear how it goes.

Should come with instructions on the tin I would think, I've never actually done it myself but I read up on it a while back. I have a high idle on my 32 post engine build - I had the intake paint stripped / cleaned, and suspect in that process the factory seals are now leaking a bit. From memory open them up, brush the stuff on, close and leave it to dry with them closed and it will form the seal. So you still have the factory coat in place yeah - you didn't scrape it off or anything? Elec contact cleaner is really gentle. You might be fine but me personally I would do the throttle coat, easier than pulling the manifold off again. Will have to do mine at some point when I can be arsed pulling it apart.

What you need is a tin of Tomei Throttle Coat

^ this. I have some 2mm plate tacked over the top of the rails on mine as jacking points to keep everything tip top.

Dear god it's beautiful ...

Haha nice. I didn't realise the gravity of what you had been through at the time, was just happy to get nice discount on a virtually new up-spec alternator. Small world, thought I would have a read of your thread on account of funny title. Surprised it triggered the memory actually, here I was thinking I was pre-alzheimers. The alternator, while I am sure won't cause any trouble, definitely cannot harm anyone or thing in it's current state, on a shelf in my garage next to my dusty, amperely challenged car. One day will get around to fitting it.

Reading this, did I, per chance, buy your aftermarket 120amp (?) alternator, through fb marketplace? The girlfriend I picked it up from told me a similar story... she didn’t however inform me that the alternator was quite possibly cursed ?

I should have held on to all mine! I think I gave the last one away to clear out space. That one has watercooling. But for that price you could EASILY get something far more modern, brand new, ball bearing etc I did have a high flowed one with a slightly larger compressor wheel that was ace. All the response of the stock turbo but able to handle an extra 4psi over the stock one. I have a load of stock ceramic exh GTR turbos lying around... I wonder if they will/have come back into fashion with the way GTR part prices are going.

I spent a lot of time messing around with these. It looks very much like an early oil cooled version of the Garrett AiResearch M10 T2 as found on leaded N12 Pulsar ET Turbo E15ET engines. Exhaust housing has been rotated from the standard position to suit. T2 exhaust flange. See photos here. Particularly the second and third photos. In the second photo you can see that metal block on the exhaust housing, that you can see in your photo. Also third photo shows the core and oil inlet that matches yours. Used circlips for both comp and exhaust housing, and would suit your stated HP. http://www.micra.com.au/community/message.php?messageid=1934

What you finally got my new filler neck did you?

My filler neck is toast too... get me a new one while you are at it!

Mate you are gonna need more tape on those cooler pipes for it to hold the 8psi you are going to run

Just gathering dust and appreciating in value! I must say I was pretty tempted to buy it when you had it up for sale.

If Richmond are not in the GF and it isn't full ill definitely be a maybe for this one