Ceffeh

[Nic_A31]

I've posted this up before w/ eBay pics, thought it was about time to make an official thread for progress.

1988 A31 Cefiro

RB20DET

5 Speed

HD Clutch

2 Way Diff

Lowered/Stiff springs

Imported in 98 as a N/A Auto, rego'd up until 06, de-rego'd, moved to QLD, converted to Turbo 5 speed, then I bought it off a quick owner, and had it shipped to WA.

91'700KMS, not too sure on this one, REVS matched the engine to the chassis, but the engine has a sticker for 100'000km service performed at 88'000km (in Japan), so unless the engine was imported and swapped right before de-rego, I'd assume it was wound back (gauge cluster is the original auto).

Needs windshield, paint, exhaust fix, coilovers, new tyres (...hehehehe), certificates and a lovely emmisions test.

HICAS isnt getting along nicely with the diff, not sure if I can pass the way it is, sometimes driving in a straight line is interrupted every few seconds by a diff lockup and a yank of the rear end by HICAS.

"LOTS of work" ahead on this one, but so is any car.

Will update when she is painted.

Meanwhile, here is a pic I snapped today after I let it off the lead for a few laps around the block.

Comments, critisicm, bashing etc, all welcome.

-Nic

[CEF33Y]

Good luck with it all, cefiro's are wicked!

With my first one I locked the rear hicas rack, and just disconnected the lines at the front rack. Do a bit of a search should be able to find plenty of info on hicas

Is that a A32 next to it?...

[Nic_A31]

Still tossing up between swapping the diff, or locking HICAS. Once the diff breaks in, I'll see how its going and work it out from there. Changing the diff would suit more to using the car for daily use, but locking the HICAS is only $150 and half a day's work.

Its a 94 model J30 (98-94) Maxima

[Nic_A31]

Exhaust leak almost fixed.

I bought a new manifold, I thought it was just a shinny AM one, but a few mates reckon its all ported and nifty shit. Cost me $330, its on eBay for about $250 (doh!)

So when taking the old manifold off, I was taking the bolts off and got to the end where the leak was, went to take the bolt off and it just fell out of the block. f**k-Nuts, half the stud was still inside the block, and its the close to the firewall, seing as I couldnt fit a drill in there, a fellow SAUWA member came round with compressor/right angle air drill, we drilled the whole way through the studd (accidentally, I was hoping to only go 80-90% through, so not to damage anything inside the block), tried a regular extractor with no luck, but a sqaure/wedge type extractor did the job perfectly, came out in under 2 minutes.

So, there was no exhaust leak, just no stud, but it had 4 gaskets there to minimize the noise.

Thats one more dodgey fixed. Can't wait for new studs to arrive and get that new manifold in, hear what it sounds like without the leak, with cleaned pipes and the BOV reconnected properly.

---------------

Can anybody clear this up for me?

I bought another ECU loom, to eliminate the dodgey wiring at the ignition, but I found that the new RB20 loom doesnt connect to my MAFS.

Apparently the connectin is the same, both in the clip and the wiring pin order. Can anybody tell me what I have fitted on previous loom, current loom, and where the MAFS is from ?? I cant find any re-wiring in the current loom for the MAFS at all, it appears to be an RB20 loom, as every other connector matches the new loom I bought.

Were the Mass Air Flow Sensors different between early and late model RB20s ?

Edited August 1, 2009 by Nic_A31

[samdumbert]

Im pretty sure the cefiro air flow meter has a different shape plug to a r32.

How many pins on each plug?

[Nic_A31]

Current:

Connector has room for 6 but only uses 4

New loom:

Room for 5, only uses 4

MAFS has like, 5 pins? or 6?

Guess I'll just have to re-wire

[Stronachh]

don't paint her bro. she looks mint as like that.

I have a standard 20e auto a31.... x 2 haha.

bought 20det which is in rebuild stages and trying to sus out parts like adjusties, lsd and hicas lock bar.

currently in the process of getting rid of that god damned sound deadner. hahah.

[Ceffy]

Boro style man haha... piss the hicas off quick smart then she'll be a drift pig... good luck man with the build

cheer, matt

[Nic_A31]

Don't paint her? haha

Good luck with the DET man, its a pretty straight foward drop in, and you get REAL power. I'd go nuts with on a SOHC and Auto.

I wanna make it street legal, its 100% straight on all panels, and the interior is complete, I don't think I could defile it into a track only rig.

I'm going for black pain, kit, DMax guards, and match the back wheels to whatever I'm running on the front (still havent found out what they are).

I think I'm going to need to lock HICAS, its out of control, even when driving straight, dumbest thing ever, should have only been installed on the AWD models.

Matt, your ride looks sick dude. I think all out A31s are possesed hey, mine suffers all sorts of weird shit with the electronics (I can listen to the airport on the factory radio that came with it ? )

[CEF33Y]

Hey mate, with regards to your air flow meter question, I don't know if this will help in anyway, but my current cefiro (1992 model) has a airflow meter with a plug to match the loom you bought, and my old cefiro (1988 model) has the same as your car (black plug)

Found this out when i went to swap the current afm for the one from my old car, different plug.

Maybe later model has a different afm plug? or maybe my cars had a different plug (and afm)? although i couldn't see any chopping of the loom, looked all factory.

[Nic_A31]

^^ Yeah, I cant see any rewiring, which I would expect since the ignition was all "re-wired" (taped), but its factory ish.

Maybe early models were the same connector as Z32, and later models adapted R32 (later models adapted to R32 type ignition connectins (ignitor pack, coils, etc).

I've give my MAF to a mate, he's gonna go find me an adapter, or another connector and I'll just re-wire it that way, pain in the ass but it'll have to do.

ANOTHER UPDATED:

Cleaning engine bay at the moment, while I have all the shit out, waiting for my new studs to arrive.

One side down in 5 hours, got the other side to do, should be alot easier since there arent stiff brake lines and shit to work around.

Car's factory color is actually a gray color similar to picture above, not black like I originally thought.

[Ceffy]

^^ Yeah, I cant see any rewiring, which I would expect since the ignition was all "re-wired" (taped), but its factory ish.

Maybe early models were the same connector as Z32, and later models adapted R32 (later models adapted to R32 type ignition connectins (ignitor pack, coils, etc).

I've give my MAF to a mate, he's gonna go find me an adapter, or another connector and I'll just re-wire it that way, pain in the ass but it'll have to do.

ANOTHER UPDATED:

Cleaning engine bay at the moment, while I have all the shit out, waiting for my new studs to arrive.

One side down in 5 hours, got the other side to do, should be alot easier since there arent stiff brake lines and shit to work around.

Car's factory color is actually a gray color similar to picture above, not black like I originally thought.

You'll have to let me kno how u go with the 5 stud, i was thinking of doing the conversion but i just bought some buddy clubs in 4 stud.

Got any pics to go with ur update?

[Nic_A31]

I'm just going to buy a 5 stud conv. kit off JustJap unless I can find something to raid at the local wreckers here.

Will try and get some pics tomorrow, engine bay still looks funny, one side matt black, the other reflective grey/blue.

I got onto a good run tonight removing the old studs so I can replace them with the flash new ones, but just as I got into it, I ran out of nuts to lock together on the studs, so, gotta go buy more to get the last 6 off.

Once its all back together I can take a picture of all the piping repainted. Attatched a pic of the crossover pipe (think thats what they call it).

Also want to paint the camshaft covers and intake manifold, but that might be later.

Once it is running I've got to get onto fixing that air con, was screaming the last few times I started it, so gotta disconnect or fix it before it goes Boom.

[Nic_A31]

Pics of clean side and dirty side. I'll let you guys do the working out.

Found its pretty scratched up the more I clean it, all the more reason to pull the engine and do the whole bay top to bottom and respray it in black, but that'd take a while, so another thing I'll leave unless I do an RB25DET swap.

My AFM is a factory A31, the harness I picked up is R32, which is different to A31/Z32 connectors, but the same wiring. A mate of mine is swapping my A31 for an R32 to match my new loom, and no more dodgey rewiring.

This arvo I'll finish cleaning the left side of the block, fit the new manifold, fit the turbo - now cleaned, top up the fluids, and thats that side done.

Take off the Intake manifold and paint black, matching the pic of the induction pipe I posted before, fit the new wiring loom and R32 AFM, clean the other side of the block and engine bay and she'll be rocking.

More progress w00t w00t!

[Nic_A31]

Today I picked me up some R33 GTS-T brakes, they were a shitheap when I got them, so I sanded back the rust on the rotors, completely stripped the calipers, dismantled them, drained out whatvever that "fluid" was, repainted them, re assembled. Going to try and fit the R33 booster tomorrow, as mine is fubar'd, while I've got the Ceffy one off, good chance to paint the engine bay black (most engine bay shit is inside the car at the moment...)

Also a good chance, while I have the interior out, to respray that.

Need to find some 5 stud hubs before I can chuck the rotors on.

Pics below.

Main jobs pending:

Coilovers

- Next mod, HSDs for $1400 + delivery Hurry up monthly pay day!!

Exhaust

- 3in turbo back with new cat convertor, twin tip, and quietened down as much as possible, $1500 +/-

- Already fitted an eBay turbo manifold, I decided the bling sucks, so now its coated in matt black 1500 degree paint, also painted the turbo and shell

and the split dump pipe at the same time....not its camo to cops

Body kit

- Chasing an Autech or URAS, depending on how much clearance I can get with coilovers

Body trim / glass

- Hurry up TAKUSHI

Paint

- Dark gun metal grey, with the wheel wells, radiator / FMIC painted black.

Hoping for rego just after Christmas.

[Nic_A31]

One more

Here is how rusted they were. Nasty shit.

[konect]

The painted cross over pipe looks hot

[Ceffy]

4 + 2 plotters are better then 1 + 1. 33 brakes look sweet but dont look as big as my z32's.... But you have rears, I dont =-(

[Nic_A31]

Arent they the same caliper as Z32? Would make sense if the Z32s are bigger considering their higher power output, torque and about the same weight, the extra braking would be needed.

Somehow I dont think those rotors will fit with the calipers unless I use bigger knuckles and hubs, but then coilovers wont fit...so I might need to stick to pee-wee 4stud rotors?

anyone fitted R33 calipers and rotors to A31 knuckles ??

[Ceffy]

I stayed with a 4 stud rotor, it sucks but its the only way to keep cost down. But I found some slotted ones on ns.com heres the link...

http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/index.p...howtopic=395629

Better than keeping them stock...