Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I had this HKS EVC III Boost Controller professionally removed from my R33 GTR yesterday.

The unit itself is still in excellent condition, however a mechanic told me that the solenoid is not functioning correctly. To be honest, I dont know if this is the case, or whether it was just a sales pitch to get me to buy a new boost controller. It was working perfect before I took it to them?

Even after the solenoid was apparently broken, it was some how set manually to still hold 14 psi and did this perfectly.

I called a few spare parts places and have seen that the used solenoids to suit can be bought for anywhere from $70 - $100.

A few places told me that the solenoid may just be dirty and apparently you can just open it and clean it. Its only a few screws on the top of it so if you know what your doing, it may be easy - but I'll leave this up to the pro's as I dont want to attempt a n00b fix and break it.

On the other hand, if you just need a replacement unit - as per above its still in great condition!

Its a shame I had to remove it because its such a sexy unit with a large and well lit display.

Apparently these are still pretty sought after, I have seen them available in used condition, direct from japan on ebay for around $350 + post.

The 2 main parts - the boost control unit and the solenoid are included. Also a few random bits of wiring.You will obviously need some tubing but its not expensive and would need to be customised by a mechanic to whatever car your putting it in anyway.

I'm asking for $125 including registered post + insurance to you. However, as per usual - all offers are considered :D

Pickup is also available from the hills district.

You can contact me on 0434 929 257.

Cheers!

post-54322-1248212649_thumb.jpgpost-54322-1248212672_thumb.jpg

post-54322-1248212682_thumb.jpg

Edited by KR4-GTR
Hi all,

I had this HKS EVC III Boost Controller professionally removed from my R33 GTR yesterday.

The unit itself is still in excellent condition, however a mechanic told me that the solenoid is not functioning correctly. To be honest, I dont know if this is the case, or whether it was just a sales pitch to get me to buy a new boost controller. It was working perfect before I took it to them?

Even after the solenoid was apparently broken, it was some how set manually to still hold 14 psi and did this perfectly.

I called a few spare parts places and have seen that the used solenoids to suit can be bought for anywhere from $70 - $100.

A few places told me that the solenoid may just be dirty and apparently you can just open it and clean it. Its only a few screws on the top of it so if you know what your doing, it may be easy - but I'll leave this up to the pro's as I dont want to attempt a n00b fix and break it.

On the other hand, if you just need a replacement unit - as per above its still in great condition!

Its a shame I had to remove it because its such a sexy unit with a large and well lit display.

Apparently these are still pretty sought after, I have seen them available in used condition, direct from japan on ebay for around $350 + post.

The 2 main parts - the boost control unit and the solenoid are included. Also a few random bits of wiring.You will obviously need some tubing but its not expensive and would need to be customised by a mechanic to whatever car your putting it in anyway.

I'm asking for $125 including registered post + insurance to you. However, as per usual - all offers are considered :D

Pickup is also available from the hills district.

You can contact me on 0434 929 257.

Cheers!

post-54322-1248212649_thumb.jpgpost-54322-1248212672_thumb.jpg

post-54322-1248212682_thumb.jpg

does it say valve controler on the unit bro?

Has scamble boost and so on.

If so i have the same unit in my 33gtr and be Fkd if we can get it to work correctly either.We tried to set it up 2 ways as i want to keep it because i have a remote unit on the wheel for scramble boost to add boost in for what period of time im after on a button.

Simply will not control boost no matter what settings we have it set to.

Hey mate,

Yeah this is an EVC III - the one with all the extra options like scramble - etc.

Personally, I think it may have wiped the current settings or something when they disconnected the battery and they couldnt work out how to use it without the instruction manual so told me it was rooted. But I could be wrong.

On that note, I actually have a soft copy of the manual I can PM through to you if it would help you?

I cant play with the settings on this one now obviously because its already out of the car, otherwise i'd be giving it a shot out of curiosity!

Edited by KR4-GTR
does it say valve controler on the unit bro?

Has scamble boost and so on.

If so i have the same unit in my 33gtr and be Fkd if we can get it to work correctly either.We tried to set it up 2 ways as i want to keep it because i have a remote unit on the wheel for scramble boost to add boost in for what period of time im after on a button.

Simply will not control boost no matter what settings we have it set to.

hey champ, you wouldnt be looking to sell the remote steering wheel of the boost controller would you??

if so pm me.

Hey mate,

Yeah this is an EVC III - the one with all the extra options like scramble - etc.

Personally, I think it may have wiped the current settings or something when they disconnected the battery and they couldnt work out how to use it without the instruction manual so told me it was rooted. But I could be wrong.

On that note, I actually have a soft copy of the manual I can PM through to you if it would help you?

I cant play with the settings on this one now obviously because its already out of the car, otherwise i'd be giving it a shot out of curiosity!

yea mate please email it to me bro

[email protected]

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...