Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noo, not for the GTR... had you going though.

For this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...2&silo=1011

I am clueless apart from the fact that I heard somewhere that Uni and TAFE students need practice etc and will provide cheap service as it's not professional per se'. Anyone know anything more than that or know someone who had a car resprayed by a student?

P.S. I might buy the Escort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280501-unitafe-workshops/
Share on other sites

TAFEs can do it, you have to pay for the paint, thats it, if they don't do it good enough, they and it back and try again, so it might be gone longer than with a paint shop, but is cheaper. Ring an actual TAFE (whichever one spraypainting is at), and ask them for some more info.

Not sure if Uni's do it ?

I had a friend have it done many years back now at TAFE i think the thornlie one but dont quote me on that... she did have to take it back to get a small bubble patch fixed up and they did rub it back and do it correctly and i have to say the job looks great now, they have to meet industry standards and the tutor is always there to check... just be aware the car is gone for almost a whole semester as it is a training tool and make sure it cannot be started :P

im pretty sure its much less than 3000. i went to carlisle tafe and a couple of the spray painters there said all u gotta do is pay for paint and wait bout 3 weeks. correct me if im wrong but as far as i know paint only cost's $400-$500 max.

also students get assessed on the job so everything must be done by the books!

yes carlisle tafe will do it. paint shouldnt be anything over 800 to 1000 and the job will be done properly as resprays are usually done by the 3rd and up year apprentices .i have to do one next time i head to tafe. car usually has to be totally stripped and in decent condition if its just getting paint work

I went to see the car today, needs a bit of body repair but the current owner is a panel beater so he's been doing the work himself.

I asked if he would do a bit more work on the body as I have no idea about that stuff.

Drives nice apart from a flat spot in second due to an over sized cam installed, needs a tune.

  • 4 months later...

Nah, not long after I looked at the Escort I went and signed the papers to build a house so I never got the Escort...

Then it was taken off carsales because the guy wanted to respray it himself. I have been keeping an eye out for it to buy it off him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I've got the rear ones, they're certainly beefy. I need to take them to my driveshaft guru to check over, he's very fussy about the quality of components so I'll let you know if they are made of cheese by a blind man.   Are you in Australia? A mate just had a set of EN26 shafts made for his K20 Lotus by our fabricator which were quite cheap (compared to Driveshaft Shop) so if you can procure the CV's and draw what you need he'd make them for ~$800 for the pair.
    • Had I known the diff between R32 and R33 suspension I would have R33 suspension. That ship has sailed so I'm doing my best to replicate a drop spindle without spending $4k on a Billet one.
    • OEM suspension starts to bind as soon as the car gets away from stock height. I locked in the caster and camber before cutting off the kingpin. I then let the upright down in a natural (unbound) state before re-attaching it. Now it moves freely in bump and droop relative to the new ride height. My plan is to add GKTech arms before the car is finished so I can dial camber and caster further. It will be fine. This isn't rocket science. Caster looks good, camber is good, upper arm doesn't cause crazy gain and it is now closer to the stock angle and bump steer checks out. Send it.
    • Pay careful attention to the kinematics of that upper arm. The bloody things don't work properly even on a normal stock height R32. Nissan really screwed the pooch on that one. The fixes have included changing the hole locations on the bracket to change the angle of the inner pivot (which was fairly successful but usually makes it impossible to install or remove the arm without unbolting the bracket from the tower, which sucks) and various swivelling upper arm designs. ALL the swivelling upper arm designs that look like a capital I (with serifs) suck. All of them. Some of them are in fact terribly unsafe. Even the best one of them (the old UAS design) shat itself in short order on my car. The only upper arm that works as advertised and is pretty safe is the GKTech one. But it is high maintenance on a street car. I'm guessing that a 600HP car as (stupidly, IMO) low as you are going is not going to be a regular driver. So the maintenance issues on suspension parts are probably not going to be a problem. But you really must make sure that however your fairly drastically modded suspension ends up, that the upper arms swing through an arc that wants to keep the inner and outer bolts parallel. If the outer end travels through an arc that makes that end's bolt want to skew away from parallel with the inner bolt, you will build up enormous binding and compressing forces in the bushes, chew them out and hate life. The suspension compliance can actually be dominated by the bush binding, not the spring rate! It may be the case that even something like the GKTech arm won't work if your suspension kinematics become too weird, courtesy of all the cut and shut going on. Although you at least say there's no binding now, so maybe you're OK. Seeing as you're in the build phase, you could consider using R33/4 type upper arms (either that actual arm, OEM or aftermarket) or any similar wishbone designed to suit your available space, so alleviate the silliness of the R32 design. Then you can locate your inner pivots to provide the correct kinematics (camber gain on compression, etc).
    • The frontend wouldn't go low enough because the coilover was max low and the upper control arm would collapse into itself and potentially bottom out in the strut tower. I made a brace and cut off the kingpin and then moved the upright down 1.25" and welded. i still have to finish but this gives an idea. Now I can have a normal 3.25" of shock travel and things aren't binding. I'm also dropping the lower arm and tie rod 1.25".
×
×
  • Create New...