Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Noo, not for the GTR... had you going though.

For this:

http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat...2&silo=1011

I am clueless apart from the fact that I heard somewhere that Uni and TAFE students need practice etc and will provide cheap service as it's not professional per se'. Anyone know anything more than that or know someone who had a car resprayed by a student?

P.S. I might buy the Escort.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280501-unitafe-workshops/
Share on other sites

TAFEs can do it, you have to pay for the paint, thats it, if they don't do it good enough, they and it back and try again, so it might be gone longer than with a paint shop, but is cheaper. Ring an actual TAFE (whichever one spraypainting is at), and ask them for some more info.

Not sure if Uni's do it ?

I had a friend have it done many years back now at TAFE i think the thornlie one but dont quote me on that... she did have to take it back to get a small bubble patch fixed up and they did rub it back and do it correctly and i have to say the job looks great now, they have to meet industry standards and the tutor is always there to check... just be aware the car is gone for almost a whole semester as it is a training tool and make sure it cannot be started :P

im pretty sure its much less than 3000. i went to carlisle tafe and a couple of the spray painters there said all u gotta do is pay for paint and wait bout 3 weeks. correct me if im wrong but as far as i know paint only cost's $400-$500 max.

also students get assessed on the job so everything must be done by the books!

yes carlisle tafe will do it. paint shouldnt be anything over 800 to 1000 and the job will be done properly as resprays are usually done by the 3rd and up year apprentices .i have to do one next time i head to tafe. car usually has to be totally stripped and in decent condition if its just getting paint work

I went to see the car today, needs a bit of body repair but the current owner is a panel beater so he's been doing the work himself.

I asked if he would do a bit more work on the body as I have no idea about that stuff.

Drives nice apart from a flat spot in second due to an over sized cam installed, needs a tune.

  • 4 months later...

Nah, not long after I looked at the Escort I went and signed the papers to build a house so I never got the Escort...

Then it was taken off carsales because the guy wanted to respray it himself. I have been keeping an eye out for it to buy it off him.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...
    • Slow when hot could also be because its getting more dynamic compression, OR things are getting a bit tighter once it is all expanded. If it were an earthing issue, typically I'd expect you to have it have issues all the time. Unless it's really a combination of both things. Where the higher compression, and things being a bit tighter, is giving that bit of extra load and you do need a slight clean up on the cables/connections.
    • Yeah, this is one of the most annoying things about nissan part numbers... I've got an unrelated example... Image is of the AT output shaft ~ they have the same part#, but clearly the shaft on the left is beefier design to that on the right ...the difference (essentially) is the 'lighter' shaft on the right, is for engines up to RB25DE (this includes RB20 variants) : the shaft on the left is for RB25/26DET(T)....are they interchangeable? Yes...but obviously one shaft is going to be stronger than the other...and, the lighter shaft is around USD115, but the heavier shaft closer to USD150...same part#... ...epc-data usually tells a tale ~ the amayama listing for 39100-23U60 has a note "Longest side is between 60 and 105 cm" ; no such info is there for 39100-23U70 ...and given the great disparity in price between the 2 parts, it makes me at least curious (to the point of caution) where the 'extra money' went? ...ie; these 2 parts have a cost difference that (to myself at least) isn't explained by 'plastic boot'...ie; with amayama there's AUD700 price difference ...plastic versus rubber?...I'm not seeing it like that...and 60cm ~ 105cm...??...that's a huge disparity....something hinky going on here... I'd try searching by VIN, not model... /2cents
    • I don't know for sure, but I'd expect them all to be interchangeable given the diff end and hub end don't move/change between any C34 series. Often Nissan will change part numbers and the aftermarket follows those year ranges; but the original part number change doesn't mean other parts won't fit. The change could be a change in material, internal parts or even just supplier. For example, all the RB gearbox to engine bolts are no longer available and there is a new part number instead. The only change is they went from cadmium plated bolts to zinc plated due to the issues manufacturing with Cadmium. They look different but work the same.
×
×
  • Create New...