Jump to content
SAU Community

Buying Used Skyline

prabir

By prabir,
in Australian Capital Territory

 Share

Recommended Posts

prabir Newbie

prabir

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I recently moved to Canberra from overseas. I'm interested in buying a skyline, been searching online for the past few days. I was wondering if you guys could help me out by telling me the process of buying a used car. Such as insurance, registration and such. What is the procedure like? Thanks!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280681-buying-used-skyline/
Share on other sites
Helious Rising Star

Helious

Posted
Posted

Hello Prabir and welcome to SAU...and Australia for that matter.

The procedure for buying a used car usually goes alot quicker if you have all the money on hand. Also know that just because it might look clean and detail on the outside and inside doesnt mean its in good condition. In most cases it would be best to pay for the car you are interested in to have a fuel check over. The best step on buying a used car is not to rush it, and its better to spend a little on mechanical reports then buying a car only to find you have to pay more money for repairs.

prabir Newbie

prabir

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Thanks for all the information Helious!

Could someone give me more info on where I might find these mechanics to inspect the car. Is this the equivalent of the Road Worthy Certificate? Also, what are the steps I have to undergo to purchase the car? Do i purchase the car first, then settle the insurance and registration?

W1ngnut Proficient

W1ngnut

Posted
Posted

NRMA have a mechanical inspection that you can get done, and no, it is different to the road worthy certificate. A road worthy certificate is required to be able to register the car on Australian roads, and this is achieved by booking into an approved inspection station listed on the Canberra's Motor Registry website. If the car you are looking at is interstate, you will need to go over Dickson's Motor Registry station for an identity check. If the car is modified, you will have to go over Dickson's Motor Registry station for this as well.

As for steps, if you find a car that you like, the first thing most people will do is get the VIN number from the car. They then use this number for whats known as a REVS check, this will check whether the car is still owing any monies to a bank due to an unpaid car loan etc, as once you buy a car that is under finance, you also have to then pay the finance company. The next step is to agree on a price with the person, and get your money sorted. When you are ready to pick up the car, you call an insurance agency like NRMA or AAMI etc that will give you a cover note, which basically gives you insurance on the car without paying upfront until the car is in your name (but you will pay from the day it started once it is in your name). In the ACT, you have 14 days to get the car into your name, in other words, 14 days to get your roadworthy certificate and head to a Government Shopfront to get your rego papers.

Shell Grand Master

Shell

Posted
Posted

All the info you need is here : http://www.rego.act.gov.au/registrations/regomain.htm

How old are you? I dont know if you are aware but insurance in Aust for skylines can be very expensive and most insurance companies won't even insure them... you have to use someone such as Just Cars or Shannons. It can be thousands of dollars so you might want to look into that before you go through with the purchase of a car :P

Helious Rising Star

Helious

Posted
Posted

The problem with road worthy inspections is that they can sometimes miss or not detect certain problems that a full mechanic inspection will discover. If the owner says they will get a road worthy certificate for you, tell then to send it to a specific place/business, eg. NRMA, so you dont get a dodgy WRC from one of the owners friends.

Please use the link that Shell has provided as this does have all the information you will need and more.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...