Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Time to sell my 34 gt-r it only has a few mods these include :nismo coilovers , hks cat back exhaust , bbs 18x9.5 wheels ! 39000kms :thumbsup: i also have the jap log books . Just replaced the gbox and front and rear diffs with redline oils . Any questions just pm me , Aaron.

post-22701-1248686627_thumb.jpg

post-22701-1248686937_thumb.jpg

post-22701-1248687129_thumb.jpg

post-22701-1248687526_thumb.jpg

post-22701-1248687829_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/280947-white-34-gt-r-for-sale/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 45
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 2 weeks later...

Good car, would you like to trade my 350Z?, I saw you have replied to the other friend just trade R32? some one wanna trade a R32 600Hp+cash with me but I didn't, If you are interested in, we can work something out. thanks

Nismo exhaust with Y pipe $2000( Now Nismo already stopped make this exhaust, So don't miss it! )

Kinetix Hight flow cats $500

Blize air intake $500

Cusco front struct bar $200

ARC cooling plate $150

Jwt Heavy duty cluch $500

Sprint booster $400

Greddy Blue Emanagement $550

Kgmm Suspension $1300

Ichba wheel adapter front 25mm rear 30 mm $200

Short shift kit $40

Car info:

2003 Black 350z track model

Manual 90000kms

Full service record From Nissan dealer

Very good condition

I am 2nd owner, The car has been serviced every 5000Kms, Just bought New Rego untill next year Aug

Black Leather seat

Nokia Blue tooth

Reverse Senser

New brambo brake rotors and New pads($2200)

New Exceddy Heavy duty Cluch($780)

JWT Flywheel($400)

1/2 Plenum spacer($550)

Rays 18' rims

New Goodyear 285 rear tyres($1500)

Rear lips and Front Lips with Carbon wind splitter and Carbon canards Carbon Eye lid($1000)

changed Motul engine oil

Motul Gear box oil

Motul diff oil

Motul brack fluid

(all the oil cost $450)

Goodbridage Front Brake line

Goodbridage rear Brake line

Goodbridage Cluch line( total $500)

8000watt HID

Always use BP 98# Petro

Now the car has been tuned 170Kws@rear wheel, Need one more parts up to around 180Kws@rear wheel. I will pay the extra money for this part and tuner for the buyer.

I am selling my car and get a GTR32, the rest money I will pay my school fees.

Inspection :welcome: . Car is in Melbourne. Pictures coming soon.Any reasonable offer will be consider.

Now Time Waster

Thanks :)

My Email: [email protected]

PH:043 043 2938

Totall Spend $15000+ on the car

Now just sell every thing with OEM Parts $39990

th_DSC01646.jpgth_DSC01650.jpgth_news_2009810135524.jpgth_DSC01652.jpgth_DSC01649.jpg

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...