Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy people. I got my heart set on an R31 for numerous reasons but above all it looks mean.

I'm looking for information about the car like what I should be looking for when I go to purchase one?

also things like fuel economy.. and what should i be looking at paying for insurance? i'm 19 and on my p's.

I believe my gran use to have one but it had the rectangle taillights, not the stove top(?) ones. sold it for 2k six years ago. Is this the same car?

Thanks all.

edit: don't hate me, i don't know how this forum works.

Edited by kayOne
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/281588-i-know-nothing-r31/
Share on other sites

Howdy people. I got my heart set on an R31 for numerous reasons but above all it looks mean.

I'm looking for information about the car like what I should be looking for when I go to purchase one?

Hi,

Just my own opinion:

  • "Low kms" (up to 240000, but the lower the better)
  • few modifications
  • straight panels - and all the same colour  :happy:
  • minimal rust
  • good wheels and tyres
  • roadworthy certificate

Perhaps you can post some specifics about what you're looking for: auto/manual, sedan/wagon. Also, if unsure, it's a good idea to have a mechanic check out the car for you.

good luck,

JohnH

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.

I only got an auto license, and I'm looking for a sedan. What's fuel economy like and is insurance high for these cars?

I just found this on the forum too and I'm putting it here so I can find it later:

GX - (Base Model with Pwr steer std)

Executive - (Basically a GX with A/C and Auto std)

GXE - better cloth trim, A/C standard

Silhouette - "sports" model - alloys, better seats, LSD. Two tone Paint, trip computer, boot lid spoiler etc.

TI - Top line - loses the spoiler, two tone paint and LSD in favour of cruise control, power windows and velour trim.

Edited by kayOne

Insurance shouldn't be too bad for an unmodified auto sedan compared to other cars. The fuel economy will be a bit sad compared to modern cars, but not awful.

Im no R31 expert, but general rules for checking out cheap and cheerful cars are:

- Look really carefully for rust, e.g. under the bonnet, on the underside of the doors etc.

- Look for oil that is leaking from the engine. The cleaner the better.

- Check the amount/color of the exhaust smoke as a mate revs the car. A little blue puff as you turn the key is ok, but it should clear immediately.

- Bounce the thing like crazy on its springs and see how long the car takes to settle. It shouldn't bob up and down several times before coming to rest.

- Look at the gap between the panels. An uneven gap hints at a previous smash.

- Stick your head under the car and study the rubbery bits. No cracks is good news.

- Look for matching/good tread on all four tires. Uneven tire wear is a bit of a worry.

- Look at the previous owner. Buying grandpa's beloved car is a much better idea than buying off some dodgey hoon.

Also, think about getting RACV total care or something similar. Lots of free towing and roadside repairs if things do go wrong (which is pretty likely) in the first year.

Good luck!

Thanks, that's what I was looking for.

I only got an auto license, and I'm looking for a sedan. What's fuel economy like and is insurance high for these cars?

Someone will have to check this but I think they require premium unleaded fuel. (I've got an R30 that runs on unleaded). Economy depends on engine size and driving style.

You can check insurance costs by doing an online quote with any of the major insurance companies. Age/experience is a big factor so there are "large" excesses that apply to claims if you're young or has a licence for less than two years. Cheapest option is "third party" or "third party, fire and theft". You should at least get "third party" insurance. For my (older) car with (older) driver, third party insurance is around $180.

As well as this forum, you might find a car and extra advice here.

cheers,

JohnH

You will find an auto Ti amongst the 'gangsta' and 'dorifto cops' here --->http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?board=26.0

and for all you technical data and stuff

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Main_Page

and finally (good info here)

http://wiki.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?title=Buying_guide

Ive been around a few R31's built a few RB30e+t etc, and for what you pay for them these days you really cant go wrong.

the pick of the bunch would be a white Ti with grey trim, white cos it dont fade and easy to repair, and grey trim cos the brown looks like shit, literally.... plus the Ti has better sound deadening, better stereo, better brakes, and all electrics ast you previosuly stated. easily found from $1000 to $3000 for a nice one, could pay up to $5000 for one all modified and possibly turboed

the sillhoette (or however its spelt) is a nice ride too, does feel sportier

what town/state are you in and I might be able to help source a good example for you

and be careful, as they are known to hoons and 'drift heads' and 'fuuly sik skidz bro' type people, so there are MANY thrashed and trashed vehicles out there (good for parting out and getting repair panels off etc!)

The RB30e is one of the toughest engines nissan ever made, im pretty sure the blocks were made in dandynong vic with australias high quality metals back in the eighties.....

the only reason i dont own one is I have an R30 (the version beforehand) and it handles better than an R31 due to the R30's independant rear suspension, the Australian R21's have live axel rear end... similar to a hilux (very strong, good for towing)

yea good luck mate.

best bet for all your info is www.r31skylineclub.com

and get a mechanic to go over it.

but some bad points i have found

hand brake is shit

brakes only good for light street use (solved by R33gtst brake up grade)

to many cheep rip off parts for sale these days.

oh here is the link to my old 31 and the new one

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=122545.0 new project

http://forum.r31skylineclub.com/index.php?topic=58063.0 old one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...