Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive recently bought a skyline and only on P plats and the only people that will insure me i just car!!!

anyone eles with the same problem?? or any suggestions

does anyone no any other company that will insure me??

hey man, ive got a skyline and am on my P plates. i went with justcars, cost me $500 for 3rd party fire and theft. thats about as cheap as your going to get if you want to insure it. fully comp is $3000 lol, naturally i went the cheaper option.

^

What he said.

JC is about your only choice at this stage.

Expect to pay about those amount for insurance for skyline when you on your Ps.

EDIT: I'm paying ~$2k for full comp (b4 was ~$300 for basic 3rd Party).

Edited by Mayuri Krab

i paid around $1800 when i 1st got my skyline ( i was on my p's) and that was for an na auto. until your 20 just car is your only option. i've also foudn there pretty good, kept me updated all the time like when my car was getting assessed, when my car left assessment centre to go to mechanic etc. its worth it

Aren't JustCar always cheaper anyway?

Every quote I've received has always been the same 2.2k (*before I turned 20), wheather it be my stock Maxima, or a 300hp Infiniti Q45, and my Ceffy....all the same figures.

Driver, not car.

Adjust your excess and behave, that'll help your bill a little bit, but yeah, its steep until your 21? or 25? ++

There is many ways to make yout insurance cheaper.

1. list yourself as the only driver (this means no one else will be covered - no one drives mine :) )

2. increase your excess lots to lower the premiums (this means it will hit you if your at fault in an accident - so be good )

3. take all options off the insurance ( no glass break repair, no free car hire etc - this can take off a lot on the premium )

4. do not list any added options to the car ( stereo, wheels etc)

Also if you have health insurance try that company that is how my mate got insurance with HBF.

25 is the magic number for age.

If you have minimal mods (read: next to none) and you're over 25 then other places will look at you. Got a quote from SGIO to insure the stag (as that's who my home/contents is with), they said they might possibly be able to do the skyline but would need to do some sweet talking to get it insured for what I want.

Yeah third party is the cheapest but still kind of risky!!!

Im 20 paying $1500 at Just car, Neuroglider my bf is 22 paying $1800 - $300 more simply cos he's male :P

How'd you afford the line???

I'd suggest the best insurance you can afford to be honest. But yeah its prob just car for you, for now.

Im a p plater and sorta had the same problem. When I looked around for quotes, 3rd party prices were pretty much all the same at 500ish (with fire+theft) no matter which company. If your looking at full comp though just cars is probably the cheapest, the other companies dont really want you so they give you outrageous quotes i think, example: heres my quote for full comp with SGIO: $5474 dollars per year, with a $1800 excess and an agreed value of only 6k which was the highest agreed value I could get, (this was on a r33 gtst that I had just paid 8.7k for 2 days before btw) even if I total my car I would get back less than what my insurance cost wouldve been lol. I ended up going with fire+theft, it encourages me to drive safer lol

Edited by Crackfox

Was a bitch getting insurance for my GTR. After my VZ SV6 was written off by a transperth bus they asked me if I wanted to insure my next car with them. Said yep sure (WQBE this is) and told them it was a skyline. They said yep no worries, we insure those, what type is it? Me: "It's a GTR" Them: "a what?" Me: "a GTR Skyline" Them: "Is that a 2.5l GTS?" Me: "No, it's a 2.6l twin turbo" Them: "Oh... we don't insure those..." Awesome! Thank's for asking then!

Went to Shannons and they were more than happy to take me on board, so went through the whole spiel about car clubs, whats your interest in cars, owned any performance cars before yadda yadda, all good. Where will you be keeping this? Ummm at my house perhaps? Oh, ok, do you have a garage? Yes, an undercover carport. No rollerdoor? Nope. Goodbye! Wtf?

The only people who will insure a GTR without a lockup garage is JustCar. Bloody hell, was ridiculous. Just car costs me $1400 a year w/ $1500 excess. Pretty steep even considering I am 28 heh. but worth it (Full comprehensive too). JustCar are also the ONLY insurer I know of that do not care what mods you have had done to your car and I tested this theory a few times by adding every mod I could think of and then re-submitting my request and always came back the same.

PS: One other thing for the younger guys to remember aswel, is that the more speeding fines you accumulate over the years and so forth, the more the insurers are going to look unfavourably upon you. If you are still living at home, always a good option is to get the car insured under your folks name, with you listed as the primary driver. You don't want to do this if you are living out of home though.

Edited by stormtrooper

I thought 25 was the magic age, seing as Shannon's dont insure under 25s, but ^^^ wtf? no roller door so they rejected?

Wankers. GTRs sound like more running problems than theyre worth sometimes.

I like how on the JustCar website quote form, you tick boxes for what mods are on the car, and theyre all typical import mods (exhaust, wheels, aftermarket turbo, resprayed, body panels, etc), and like you said above, you can tick them all and they don't give a shit.

I asked for a quote on the Ceffy, they didnt know what they were, weird, so I sent them back some info, like factory engine options n shit, asking for a quote for both factory engine and a possible 25 swap I was considering, and for different paint jobs, aftermarket body panels, etc, the guy said none of those changed the quote, it'd be the same to insure the vehicle in any case.

I heard that sometimes having your parents being the primary insurance holder for a car sometimes makes problems when making a claim, because it can clash with the rego CTP insurance or something? anyone confirm?

Mainly it's to do with who is driving the car as the primary driver. Like if someone was living away from home yet the car was under their folks name and the kid has a crash, they are likely to have their claim rejected because the car is not in a position to be classified as under the ownership of the folks (car has to be in their name too for it to work properly).

But yeah, just because I don't have a rollerdoor/lockup garage they didn't want to know about it.

yeh mate ur pretty much f**ked unless u do a dodgey

i pay 1600 a year, and my excess is just over 4000, and its valued at just over 14,000 afaik

OR u can do the dodgey like some guys in my tafe class, they insure the car under there mums name & pay only a few hundred each year aswell as cheap excess but u risk not getting payed out if a crash does happen

i just love insurance threads.. everyone has pretty much covered everything.. high risk / theft desirable vehicles will be harder to insure and you will pay higher for it... some insurers flat out dont insure imports..

good luck!

thanks for all the help fellaz and ladies =]

due to my car haveing a bee R r324 conversion kit on it its making it alot more difficult for me, even just car didnt have a clue.

for those not sure its a r34 front end on a r32. 9 piece body kit

ive managed to find full cover in the parents name and me as the main driver for 900 a year 'full comp' and excess is 1900 and i can choose my repairer... im a panel beater soo of course ill be fixing it

if anyone has the same problem just pm me for more details

Just Car will insure you, but be prepared to pay for it. 2K is way to much for a 10-13K car. Just get 3rd party fire/theft and don't crash it for $400.

2K a year is an extra turbo kit or body kit or rims etc. So just be careful and sensible.

Shannons will insure you if ur sneaky

Famous car insurance will if you are lucky.

Just car is ok.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
    • OK, so regardless of whether you did Step 1 - Spill Step 2 - Trans pan removal Step 3 - TCM removal we are on to the clean and refill. First, have a good look at the oil pan. While you might see dirty oil and some carbony build up (I did), what you don't want to see is any metal particles on the magnets, or sparkles in the oil (thankfully not). Give it all a good clean, particularly the magnets, and put the new gasket on if you have one (or, just cross your fingers) Replacement of the Valve body (if you removed it) is the "reverse of assembly". Thread the electrical socket back up through the trans case, hold the valve body up and put in the bolts you removed, with the correct lengths in the correct locations Torque for the bolts in 8Nm only so I hope you have that torque wrench handy (it feels really loose). Plug the output speed sensor back in and clip the wiring into the 2 clips, replace the spring clip on the TCM socket and plug it back into the car loom. For the pan, the workshop manual states the following order: Again, the torque is 8Nm only.
    • One other thing to mention from my car before we reassemble and refill. Per that earlier diagram,   There should be 2x B length (40mm) and 6x C length (54mm). So I had incorrectly removed one extra bolt, which I assume was 40mm, but even so I have 4x B and 5x C.  Either, the factory made an assembly error (very unlikely), or someone had been in there before me. I vote for the latter because the TCM part number doesn't match my build date, I suspect the TCM was changed under warranty. This indeed led to much unbolting, rebolting, checking, measuring and swearing under the car.... In the end I left out 1x B bolt and put in a 54mm M6 bolt I already had to make sure it was all correct
    • A couple of notes about the TCM. Firstly, it is integrated into the valve body. If you need to replace the TCM for any reason you are following the procedure above The seppos say these fail all the time. I haven't seen or heard of one on here or locally, but that doesn't mean it can't happen. Finally, Ecutek are now offering tuning for the 7 speed TCM. It is basically like ECU tuning in that you have to buy a license for the computer, and then known parameters can be reset. This is all very new and at the moment they are focussing on more aggressive gear holding in sports or sports+ mode, 2 gear launches for drag racing etc. It doesn't seem to affect shift speed like you can on some transmissions. Importantly for me, by having controllable shift points you can now raise the shift point as well as the ECU rev limit, together allowing it to rev a little higher when that is useful. In manual mode, my car shifts up automatically regardless of what I do which is good (because I don't have to worry about it) but bad (because I can't choose to rev a little higher when convenient).  TCMs can only be tuned from late 2016 onwards, and mine is apparently not one of those although the car build date was August 2016 (presumably a batch of ADM cars were done together, so this will probably be the situation for most ADM cars). No idea about JDM cars, and I'm looking into importing a later model valve body I can swap in. This is the top of my TCM A couple of numbers but no part number. Amayama can't find my specific car but it does say the following for Asia-RHD (interestingly, all out of stock....): So it looks like programable TCM are probably post September 2018 for "Asia RHD". When I read my part number out from Ecutek it was 31705-75X6D which did not match Amayama for my build date (Aug-2016)
×
×
  • Create New...