Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan 300zx, 2 Seater, Hardtop, Silver

mmarschall
 Share

Recommended Posts

mmarschall Enthusiast

mmarschall

Posted
Posted

Nissan 300ZX, 2 seater, hardtop, Silver

NA, Auto, 118k on the clock. $7900 for cash or will consider trades with cash adjustment possible either way for the right vehicle. We are currently in need of a tow car (prefer 4x4) and i am looking for a bike (XR400 or similar prefered). Will consider other trade offers, maybe something fun, but no ground scraping bodykits please!

General info:

This has been my fathers baby for the past 5 years. He now has upgraded and after keeping both cars for 6 months we are selling this one.

It has been perfectly maintained and runs/drives beutifully. Always garaged and has NO sun damage. plastics are perfect and interior is almost like new.

It is totally stock standard apart from a JVC cd player and a remote transmission cooler at the front. We replaced the exhaust about 1 year ago with an aftermarket pair of mufflers but they were removed after 2 drives and a replacment factory system fitted due to being too noisy. If the buyer would like the loud pair... they are still in the shed, free. He has never had any trouble with it, very reliable.

Perhaps due to not being used often anymore the starter motor has started sticking a little (we asked a mechanic and he told us the shaft needs greasing as it does not slide forward to engage the gears) this happens maybe 1 in 10 starts and then starts on the next keyturn. not serious and selling the car so we have not left it at the mechanic to take out the starter. My father still drives it once a week to make sure everything is going fine but have not taken it on a long trip since buying the new car. Has 4 months of NSW rego and good tyres. blue slip/RWC can be supplied if needed.

2 seaters are quite rare and even less common in hardtop. Please dont compare this to thrashed, sun damaged 2+2s on ebay for 5 or 6k...

P plater friendly for a younger driver or a very smooth sports cruiser for anyone. :ninja:

thanks for looking,

martin

Location: Kyogle NSW (near Lismore)

Contact: [email protected] or home phone (02)66333131

post-21158-1250081718_thumb.jpg

post-21158-1250081662_thumb.jpg

post-21158-1250081816_thumb.jpg

post-21158-1250081788_thumb.jpg

post-21158-1250081766_thumb.jpg

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...
mmarschall Enthusiast

mmarschall

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Bump again... still here, (cant drag anyone away from their skyline it seems!!!) :D

And thanks "direct" Its listed on there too. :)

Edited by mmarschall

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R32 GTST - 600KW+ RB28/CD009 Build

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • f00stx
      Intro/R33 owner

      By f00stx · Posted

      Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • f00stx
      Second time Skyline owner (R33 GTS-T and now a V36 370GT)

      By f00stx · Posted

      Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Kinkstaah
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • GTSBoy
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...