Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 221
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Well thanks to the @#*!ing weather (temp) we haven't had a real shot at tuning on straight ELF LMS :spank:

Yesterday morning Shaun fitted the Apexi actuator & then late in the evening we ran the car up on pump 98. We had to make a number of tuning adjustments due to the new actuator holding boost muuuch better.

The car made just under 260rwkw on the 17psi road map. This is down by ~8rwkw to the previous tuning, but considering it was mid/high 30's & bloody humid inside the dyno cell (@ 9.30pm!) a small drop was to be expected. Inlet temps were in the low/mid 40's due to heat soak from the earlier tuning, which isn't bad considering the ambient temps. The temp/humidity in the dyno room after each run was bloody unbelievable! Good new is the Apexi actuator worked, boost only drops ~1psi now.

We decided to give up for the night as it was still 32'c & humid as hell (@12am) & the neighbours were probably getting a bit pissed at the noise :)

Shaun was back at it by 10am this morning (12feb) & has since ran the car on the 1.3bar road map with ~10L of LMS mixed into the tank. It made just under 290rwkw. Shaun is confident of 285-290rwkw on 19psi reliably, all day everyday, on pump 98 + bit of octane boost. We didn’t bother going all out on the LMS as it’s too hot to bother pushing the package harder. It’d be safe to say 300+rwkw is there for the taking on straight LMS with additional timing & milder temps.

The bottom line is…….. I wanted a ‘safe’ tune considering the expected 40+’c temps on Sat, and that’s exactly what I got.

Here’s a little indication of the potential though……. Whilst doing one of the conservative 17psi tuning runs we accidentally hit 25psi, & although it wasn’t a full power run it made over 7700N of tractive effort & 220rwkw before Shaun backed off @ 100km/h in 4th. On the previous 280rwkw run, in cooler temps, & with more timing, it made 6400N & 180rwkw @ 100km/h in 4th.

I guess there’s nothing stopping me from running 25psi, but I’m happy enough with the current power level on 19psi, so that’ll do for now.

I went down and had a chat with the lads at BoostinOz this arvo. They have around 200 cars entered (I assume since I am no. 191) and it will be bracket racing. I have never done this before so will be very interested to have a go. For those that don't know (I didn't until today):

1. Qualifying all morning/afternoon just for practise and to see what bracket you go into.

2. 5 or 6pm Comp starts, (brackets run: 0-7.999sec, 8.00-9.999 sec, 10.00-11.999sec, 12.00-13.999sec and 14.00 and above (I think this is right).

3. so, say I run around 12.5 during the day (which is my hope) .... then I would be in the 11.999-13.00 bracket.

4. in the comp I "dial in" what time I think I'm gonna run - say 12.5. The bloke I'm up against might run a 13 normally - so he would dial in 13.

5. When we line up he starts 0.5 seconds before me (since that is the discrepancy between our dial-ins) .... then I go and have to chase him down. If I run under a 12.5 I am instantly disqualified. If I don't run under that, but lose to him (even though he got a headstart) then I am also out (unless he runs under his dial-in time). If I chase him down and beat him

(assuming I don't run under my dial-in) I advance to the next round.

Pretty cool, I reckon, the idea of a slower car getting a headstart then having to chase him down.

Can't wait .... hopefully I get paired with someone I know in the later stages fo the comp - assuming I don't get knocked out 1st round :P

Also, after the comp, (time permitting), it will be all-out where you can challenge whoever you want and just race for fun. They are calling it 'grudge wars' hehe. See you guys there - everyone better be coming!!! I am gonna have a shade up, so we can chill in the shade. Will also have a few eskys if people need to cool themselves or some drinks.

Update -

Drove the car home from the w/shop tonight @ ~11pm. Suprisingly it was very cool! The boost controller was tweaked up a tad (25psi) as I still have a pump 98/LMS mix onboard. Now I know that near on 290rwkw (@ 20psi) is nothing special these days, but with another 5psi on board I'm damn sure it was more than 290 on the way home! I had the 540's spinning in 3rd & a stupid grin from ear to ear :P

Andy,

I'll be out there with the Boost Worx crew & I'm sure SAU people will be welcome to mingle in. We've got a couple of marques going up, BBQ/drinks, chairs, basically we'll have the worx :P

The BX team plan is to get a few qualifying passes in earlier before it gets too hot & then kick back a relax until near the end of the 2nd qual session. If we're already happy with the earlier passes then we won't bother doing any late qualifying passes, we'll just hold off till the comp starts.

I've not bracket raced before but was aware of the format & have watched bracket racing many times. In bracket racing Reaction Time is a big factor.

Hey I'm only there to have fun & support the BX team & Autobarn, if I go OK it's a bonus.

Excellent work Matt, I can't wait to go for a belt in her! I went out for a little run tonight and yes it was quite cool, in fact my bleed valve is set at 15psi and it's still running at 195rwkw on Tilbrooks dyno yesterday, but in the cool air tonight I saw it spike up to around 19psi at about 6,000rpm in 2nd. I will have to keep a cloe eye on it at the drags I think. No signs of detonation though which was good. Hope we can line up at some stage on Saturday Matt, it will be a good comparison :P

Dean - have you got Street Rod for PC? I remember playing a really old version many years ago and it was wicked. You could get some really funky old American cars in it too!

Dean,

Yeah hopefully everything goes well mate. I'd really love the temps to be lower so I could run more boost but if it is hot I'll just take it easy (18-19psi).

Andy,

Thank dude. Tonight was completely unexpected re temp! If fact tonight would've been the best to take you for a test run. Yeah a heads up btw us would be interesting. You'll probably nail me on ET. I'd like to think I could get the better TS though.

Dean: yep post the links, I would love to play Street Rod again!! Didn't get the PowerFC :mad: Mark couldn't track one down after all, so I still have the Unichip in - with the bleed valve cos my ProfecB EBC still won't work. Wish I had the Unichip boost module now :( - how did you go with the setup anyhow?

Matt: you will EASILY nail me on ts man .... as always it's just a matter of you getting off the line. Will be a good chase to see if you can catch me in time :)

Yeah I heard the GT 200 was making great numbers the other night then made an unusual noise :( .... obviously they got it fixed/sorted though. I saw Munro's Drift-6 on the rollers this arvo (spent a bit of time in the boot holding the damn thing down) .... 481rwkw is nothing to be sneezed at!!! (and it was AT LEAST 40 degrees at Tilbrooks at the time). I reckon John will get into the 9s with that beast! It sounds absolutely wicked!! I took some video too. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I did end up getting it sorted, as GTSBoy said, there was a corroded connection and wire that needed to be replaced. I ended up taking out the light assembly, giving everything a good clean and re-soldered the old joints, and it came out good.
    • Wow, thanks for your help guys 🙏. I really appreciate it. Thanks @Rezz, if i fail finding any new or used, full or partial set of original Stage carpets i will come back to you for sure 😉 Explenation is right there, i just missed it 🤦‍♂️. Thanks for pointing out. @soviet_merlin in the meantime, I received a reply from nengun, and i quote: "Thanks for your message and interest in Nengun. KG4900 is for the full set of floor mats, while KG4911 is only the Driver's Floor Mat. FR, RH means Front Right Hand Side. All the Full Set options are now discontinued. However, the Driver's Floor Mat options are still available according to the latest information available to us. We do not know what the differences would be, but if you only want the one mat, we can certainly see what we can find out for you". Interesting. It seems they still have some "new old stock" that Duncan mentioned 🤔. I wonder if they can provide any photos......And i also just realized that amayama have G4900 sets. I'm tempted too. 
    • Any update on this one? did you manage to get it fixed?    i'm having the same issue with my r34 and i believe its to do with the smart entry (keyless) control module but cant be sure without forking out to get a replacement  
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if something was binding the shaft from rotating properly. I got absolutely no voltage reading out of the sensor no matter how fast I turned the shaft. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
    • So this being my first contribution to the SAU forums, I'd like to present and show how I had to solve probably one of the most annoying fixes on any car I've owned: replacing a speedometer (or "speedo") sensor on my newly acquired Series 1 Stagea 260RS Autech Version. I'm simply documenting how I went about to fix this issue, and as I understand it is relatively rare to happen to this generation of cars, it is a gigantic PITA so I hope this helps serve as reference to anyone else who may encounter this issue. NOTE: Although I say this is meant for the 260RS, because the gearbox/drivetrain is shared with the R33 GTR with the 5-speed manual, the application should be exactly the same. Background So after driving my new-to-me Stagea for about 1500km, one night while driving home the speedometer and odometer suddenly stopped working. No clunking noise, no indication something was broken, the speedometer would just stop reading anything and the odometer stopped going up. This is a huge worry for me, because my car is relatively low mileage (only 45k km when purchased) so although I plan to own the car for a long time, a mismatched odometer reading would be hugely detrimental to resale should the day come to sell the car. Thankfully this only occurred a mile or two from home so it wasn't extremely significant. Also, the OCD part of me would be extremely irked if the numbers that showed on my dash doesn't match the actual ageing of the car. Diagnosing I had been in communication with the well renown GTR shop in the USA, U.P.garage up near University Point in Washington state. After some back and forth they said it could be one of two things: 1) The speedometer sensor that goes into the transfer case is broken 2) The actual cluster has a component that went kaput. They said this is common in older Nissan gauge clusters and that would indicate a rebuild is necessary. As I tried to figure out if it was problem #1, I resolved problem #2 by sending my cluster over to Relentless Motorsports in Dallas, TX, whom is local to me and does cluster and ECU rebuilds. He is a one man operation who meticulously replaces every chip, resistor, capacitor, and electronic component on the PCB's on a wide variety of classic and modern cars. His specialty is Lexus and Toyota, but he came highly recommended by Erik of U.P.garage since he does the rebuilds for them on GTR clusters.  For those that don't know, on R32 and R33 GTR gearboxes, the speedometer sensor is mounted in the transfer case and is purely an analog mini "generator" (opposite of an alternator essentially). Based on the speed the sensor spins it generates an AC sine wave voltage up to 5V, and sends that via two wires up to the cluster which then interprets it via the speedometer dial. The signal does NOT go to the ECU first, the wiring goes to the cluster first then the ECU after (or so I'm told).  Problems/Roadblocks I first removed the part from the car on the underside of the transfer case (drain your transfer case fluid/ATF first, guess who found out that the hard way?), and noted the transfer case fluid was EXTREMELY black, most likely never changed on my car. When attempting to turn the gears it felt extremely gritty, as if shttps://imgur.com/6TQCG3xomething was binding the shaft from rotating properly. After having to reflow the solder on my AFM sensors based on another SAU guide here, I attempted to disassemble the silicone seal on the back of the sensor to see what happened inside the sensor; turns out, it basically disintegrated itself. Wonderful. Not only had the electrical components destroyed themselves, the magnetic portion on what I thought was on the shaft also chipped and was broken. Solution So solution: find a spare part right? Wrong. Nissan has long discontinued the proper sensor part number 32702-21U19, and it is no longer obtainable either through Nissan NSA or Nissan Japan. I was SOL without proper speed or mileage readings unless I figured out a way to replace this sensor. After tons of Googling and searching on SAU, I found that there IS however a sensor that looks almost exactly like the R33/260RS one: a sensor meant for the R33/R34 GTT and GTS-T with the 5 speed manual. The part number was 25010-21U00, and the body, plug, and shaft all looked exactly the same. The gear was different at the end, but knowing the sensor's gear is held on with a circlip, I figured I could just order the part and swap the gears. Cue me ordering a new part from JustJap down in Kirrawee, NSW, then waiting almost 3 weeks for shipping and customs clearing. The part finally arrives and what did I find? The freaking shaft lengths don't match. $&%* I discussed with Erik how to proceed, and figuring that I basically destroyed the sensor trying to get the shaft out of the damaged sensor from my car. we deemed it too dangerous to try and attempt to swap shafts to the correct length. I had to find a local CNC machinist to help me cut and notch down the shaft. After tons of frantic calling on a Friday afternoon, I managed to get hold of someone and he said he'd be able to do it over half a week. I sent him photos and had him take measurements to match not only the correct length and notch fitment, but also a groove to machine out to hold the retentive circlip. And the end result? *chef's kiss* Perfect. Since I didn't have pliers with me when I picked up the items, I tested the old gear and circlip on. Perfect fit. After that it was simply swapping out the plug bracket to the new sensor, mount it on the transfer case, refill with ATF/Nissan Matic Fluid D, then test out function. Thankfully with the rebuilt cluster and the new sensor, both the speedometer and odometer and now working properly!   And there you have it. About 5-6 weeks of headaches wrapped up in a 15 minute photo essay. As I was told it is rare for sensors of this generation to die so dramatically, but you never know what could go wrong with a 25+ year old car. I HOPE that no one else has to go through this problem like I did, so with my take on a solution I hope it helps others who may encounter this issue in the future. For the TL;DR: 1) Sensor breaks. 2) Find a replacement GTT/GTS-T sensor. 3) Find a CNC machinist to have you cut it down to proper specs. 4) Reinstall then pray to the JDM gods.   Hope this guide/story helps anyone else encountering this problem!
×
×
  • Create New...