Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys/girls. I'm fairly new to the skyline scene. Just trying to think of "what to do" mods to the engine.

On my old 180, i went the stainless low mount path, with the turbo back exhaust & front mount, it went alright & i enjoyed the kick it gave.

however having seen some of the low mount manifolds that are out there for RB's, there seems to be alot of no name brands tryign to flogg off the stainless steel option for around 300-400 mark. or theres the extreme option of getting a tuned lenth high mount steam pipe for around the 900-1000 mark.

now being that its meant to be a familyish car (haha) i'm not after ball tearing kw's, just something that has a bit more pep when needed. How's the stock manifold hold up with a turbo back exhaust and front mount? - thats pretty much the only bolt on mods i'm planning on doing. (except for if a low mount manifold is good, then i might consider that)

I pretty much want the car to look as stock as possible - obvisouly the front mounts a give away, however i'd be looking at justjap's stealth kit for that. wheels (a set of XD9's) will be the only other mod, oh & suspension while still retaining a comfortable ride.

Cheers for any input.

Ben

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286220-engine-mods/
Share on other sites

If all your doing is a turbo back exhaust and front mount there is def no need to change the manifold, even if you do change the turbo the standard manifold would be fine for the sort of power your after :(

IMO those cheap stainless manifolds are a huge waste of money.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286220-engine-mods/#findComment-4803334
Share on other sites

stock manifold will be fine, i made 300rwkw with a 3076R out of the RB25 in my old R32 so with mild mods it will hold up fine and will probably be a better design than the truly awful cheap lowmount options out there at the moment

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286220-engine-mods/#findComment-4803409
Share on other sites

stock manifold will be fine, i made 300rwkw with a 3076R out of the RB25 in my old R32 so with mild mods it will hold up fine and will probably be a better design than the truly awful cheap lowmount options out there at the moment

+1

I am running about 290rwkw on stock exh manifold and stock injectors.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/286220-engine-mods/#findComment-4807112
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
    • I take it that the knock retard is from bearings tapping a little tune? Thicker oil is a fragile bandaid. You need a much bigger oil cooler and probably the bigger pump being discussed.
×
×
  • Create New...