Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys, just wondering if a car is written-off.. is that an history about it?

let say if im getting a used car, do i know it's a written-off car before?

thank you

cheers!

Hi Mate

do you mean buying one here, or in Japan?

If it's a local car, you get the vin/chassis number, engine number and as much related info and do a REVS or VSR check with your local roads authority - such as Vicroads or the RTA. They will give you a report detailing if the vehicle has ever been written off. There are two types of write offs - one is a statutory write off, these can never be reregistered as they are on a register of written off vehicles. Chances are if a car you are looking at had ever been written off in this fashion, the check would be pointless as it would have had to have another cars identity put on it - ie, dodgy as hell

The other method of marking a vehicles as a write off is a financial write off - where it's not viable to fix the car, the insurance company write it off. The car can be repaired and then inspected by an engineer to ensure it's safe to go back on the road. This is recorded against a vehicles history and will come up on the REVS check :)

Hope this helps :)

Cheers

Aaron

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288155-write-off/#findComment-4831908
Share on other sites

Hi Mate

do you mean buying one here, or in Japan?

If it's a local car, you get the vin/chassis number, engine number and as much related info and do a REVS or VSR check with your local roads authority - such as Vicroads or the RTA. They will give you a report detailing if the vehicle has ever been written off. There are two types of write offs - one is a statutory write off, these can never be reregistered as they are on a register of written off vehicles. Chances are if a car you are looking at had ever been written off in this fashion, the check would be pointless as it would have had to have another cars identity put on it - ie, dodgy as hell

The other method of marking a vehicles as a write off is a financial write off - where it's not viable to fix the car, the insurance company write it off. The car can be repaired and then inspected by an engineer to ensure it's safe to go back on the road. This is recorded against a vehicles history and will come up on the REVS check :P

Hope this helps ;)

Cheers

Aaron

thanks a lot mate,that explains almost everything..

cos someone is selling me his car, it's lower than a normal market value.. but there is nothing wrong with the car, so i suspect it might be a repaired write-off car..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288155-write-off/#findComment-4832671
Share on other sites

thanks a lot mate,that explains almost everything..

cos someone is selling me his car, it's lower than a normal market value.. but there is nothing wrong with the car, so i suspect it might be a repaired write-off car..

very easy to go and do the check and find out, it will also tell you if the car is under finance - in which case you would be making payment to the finance company and not the seller :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288155-write-off/#findComment-4832943
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You are selling this? I have never bought something from marketplace...i dont know if i trust that enough. And the price is little bit "too" good...
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/19kSVAc4tc/?mibextid=wwXIfr
    • It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about. Reliability of everything in a 34 drops MASSIVELY above the 300kw mark. Keeping everything going great at beyond that value will cost ten times the $. Clutches become shit, gearboxes (and engines/bottom ends) become consumable, traction becomes crap. The good news is looking legalish/actually being legal is slighly under the 300kw mark. I would make the assumption you want to ditch the stock plenum too and want to go a front facing unit of some description due to the cross flow. Do the bends on a return flow hurt? Not really. A couple of bends do make a difference but not nearly as much in a forced induction situation. Add 1psi of boost to overcome it. Nobody has ever gone and done a track session monitoring IAT then done a different session on a different intercooler and monitored IAT to see the difference here. All of the benefits here are likely in the "My engine is a forged consumable that I drive once a year because it needs a rebuild every year which takes 9 months of the year to complete" territory. It would be well worth deciding where you want to go and what you care about with this car.
    • By "reverse flow", do you mean "return flow"? Being the IC having a return pipe back behind the bumper reo, or similar? If so... I am currently making ~250 rwkW on a Neo at ~17-18 psi. With a return flow. There's nothing to indicate that it is costing me a lot of power at this level, and I would be surprised if I could not push it harder. True, I have not measured pressure drop across it or IAT changes, but the car does not seem upset about it in any way. I won't be bothering to look into it unless it starts giving trouble or doesn't respond to boost increases when I next put it on the dyno. FWIW, it was tuned with the boost controller off, so achieving ~15-16 psi on the wastegate spring alone, and it is noticeably quicker with the boost controller on and yielding a couple of extra pounds. Hence why I think it is doing OK. So, no, I would not arbitrarily say that return flows are restrictive. Yes, they are certainly restrictive if you're aiming for higher power levels. But I also think that the happy place for a street car is <300 rwkW anyway, so I'm not going to be aiming for power levels that would require me to change the inlet pipework. My car looks very stock, even though everything is different. The turbo and inlet pipes all look stock and run in the stock locations, The airbox looks stock (apart from the inlet being opened up). The turbo looks stock, because it's in the stock location, is the stock housings and can't really be seen anyway. It makes enough power to be good to drive, but won't raise eyebrows if I ever f**k up enough for the cops to lift the bonnet.
    • There is a guy who said he can weld me piping without having to cut chassis, maybe I do that ? Or do I just go reverse flow but isn’t reverse flow very limited once again? 
×
×
  • Create New...