Jump to content
SAU Community

Central Locking + Keyless Entry

nice 28

By nice 28,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

nice 28 Proficient

nice 28

Posted
Posted

Hey guys just looking for a central locking and keyless entry kit to install into a 98 hyundai excel 2 door. Doesn't have to be anything flash as long as it's reliable.

I was looking at either an ebay kit

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/REMOTE-CENTRAL-LOCK...#ht_2390wt_1165

Or a kit from jb hifi

http://www.jbhifi.com.au/car-sound-gps-nav...entral-locking/

(the $28 central locking kit and $79 remote keyless entry kit)

Which one would be the go?

For $100 either way i'm not too fussed, as long as it works as it should.

If both these kits are a load of crap, any recommendations? (bearing in mind that I'm not willing to waste more than $200 on this stuff)

Thanks for any advice,

Hakan.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288288-central-locking-keyless-entry/
Share on other sites
cavell Enthusiast

cavell

Posted
Posted (edited)

ey i wouldnt by one of ebay, no matter how good it looks or sounds if u get it and it doesnt work its going to be massive trouble trying to get money bak or anything for it. there also a brand called CAM that deal with immobilisers/keyless entry, that way you would also be getting an immobiliser as well as keyless entry but will probs set u back about 100-150 for the imobiliser. jb hifi is goign to be your cheapest and most convenient to get being that thers jb's everywere.

Ive installed keyles entry into excel's and its not to hard to do, providing you have knowedge of what your doing. if you want though i could come to you and install it(im fully qualified and use to work in car audio) for around $70 depending on how far away you are from me (im in bentleigh area) and it would take round 2-3 hours or so.

either way go luck and pm me if you want to get me out to do it or if u want help with it

Edited by cavell
nice 28 Proficient

nice 28

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I just had a look on the CAM website and they have a kit similar to the ebay one for $99 so looks like that's the one i'll be going for.

I'll probably go out to their Malvern retailer next week and pick it up, and try to install it myself, if I can't do it though i'll be sure to give you a pm!

Any pointers on installation?

Thanks champ.

Samon Proficient

Samon

Posted
Posted
I just had a look on the CAM website and they have a kit similar to the ebay one for $99 so looks like that's the one i'll be going for.

I'll probably go out to their Malvern retailer next week and pick it up, and try to install it myself, if I can't do it though i'll be sure to give you a pm!

Any pointers on installation?

Thanks champ.

I've installed central locking in a few cars now and as long as you take your time and do it properly, it shouldn't be a problem.

The main thing is to make sure you have the motors pushing in the same direction as the rods inside the door... i.e. not at 45º angles or anything like that... which would put stress on the motor.

Also, where possible, fix one of the mounting points for the motor through the actual door frame, and the other using the little bracket things that come in the pack... that way you get a better fixing, etc.

cavell Enthusiast

cavell

Posted
Posted

like Samon said take your time and do it properly,

is the store your getting it from called Freeway Car Audio??

the actuall hooking up of the motors will be the hardest thing for you to do as u need to get it lined up properly so that it pushes in the right direction and isnt causeing stress on the motor. excels can be a little tricky first time round but generaly there the better of cars to do it on, i have had to do it to cable systems which are not easy at all. as for mounting it (from memory) you wont need any brackets it should be able to go straight underneath the locking arm and mount to the door frame and rod just needs minor bends in it to line up square and things.

if you do get stuck just pm me and we can arrange sumthing, even if u just want me to come out and helpe you with the motor mounting or what ever. (wireings generally not to bad with them kits.

Good luck with it all hope you get it done and dont run into any snags

nice 28 Proficient

nice 28

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah that sounds pretty straight forward.

I'm guessing pretty much i've just got to bolt/screw the motors to the door frame (all lined up correctly), attach it to the lock mechanism, and then wire it up to the main control box thing. Sound about right?

The main thing is to make sure you have the motors pushing in the same direction as the rods inside the door... i.e. not at 45º angles or anything like that... which would put stress on the motor.

Also, where possible, fix one of the mounting points for the motor through the actual door frame, and the other using the little bracket things that come in the pack... that way you get a better fixing, etc.

Thanks for the tips champ, will keep it in mind

is the store your getting it from called Freeway Car Audio??

That's the one.

cavell Enthusiast

cavell

Posted
Posted

yes i do love the holiday's :):bunny: to bad i only have a week of them :cool:

Perfect. Thanks for all your input guys, get the car on monday so maybe some time this week i'll give it a crack (gotta love the holidays). Thanks guys
  • 1 year later...
Anturtle Newbie

Anturtle

Posted
Posted

I have a Nissan Navara and want keyless entry installed - I saw your post -I work in Bay Rd Cheltenham 9-5 weekdays.

Would you be able to install it for me?

ey i wouldnt by one of ebay, no matter how good it looks or sounds if u get it and it doesnt work its going to be massive trouble trying to get money bak or anything for it. there also a brand called CAM that deal with immobilisers/keyless entry, that way you would also be getting an immobiliser as well as keyless entry but will probs set u back about 100-150 for the imobiliser. jb hifi is goign to be your cheapest and most convenient to get being that thers jb's everywere.

Ive installed keyles entry into excel's and its not to hard to do, providing you have knowedge of what your doing. if you want though i could come to you and install it(im fully qualified and use to work in car audio) for around $70 depending on how far away you are from me (im in bentleigh area) and it would take round 2-3 hours or so.

either way go luck and pm me if you want to get me out to do it or if u want help with it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Maf is a question mark but TPS  I have set at 0.47, the fact that I’m getting proper voltage range out of it with the key on leads me to believe it’s functioning properly. I’m getting proper voltages on basically everything. I still need to look up voltage ranges for z32 maf and test that 
    • 25zenki
      S1 rb25/s14 starting problem

      By 25zenki · Posted

      Honestly no not at all, but it’s a very basic tune, it’s stock injectors q45 tps and z32 maf. Other than that it’s a completely stock base map. The file is from nistune and from my understanding if it was tune related I would be able to unplug maf and tps and it would still start even if it was a really shitty start. I have tried starting it with coolant temp, maf, and tps unplugged none of those 3 togethor or individually changes anything 
    • Matt Z
      SAU NSW - Bathurst Run 2025

      By Matt Z · Posted

      🏆 Skyline Supremacy Meets Mount Panorama Magic 🏆 Join SAU NSW as we take the long way to Bathurst, the home of GTR greatness. Saturday 30th August 2025 7:00AM Meeting Hanna Park North Richmond 7:30AM Departure Cruise Via Bells of Line Road 9:00AM Arrival to Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat 9:45AM Arrival to Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit Meet Location: Hanna Park North Richmond Stop 1: Golden Poplars Meadow Flat Final Destination: Mount Panorama Motor Racing Circuit   *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • soviet_merlin
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      What does it look like with highway driving? And yes, I had a similar thought as Duncan. It looks quite similar in my Stagea and I have made myself accept it as normal. Might have to look into it some day   Highway gets as low as 10l/100km on my end so I'm not as worried about it being a mechanical issue. More likely just the tune on the haltech.
    • OST Micah
      RH9 R32 GTR Build Thread

      By OST Micah · Posted

      While I was waiting for the new parts to come in for the charge pipe and radiator I decided to do some turbo modification. The drive pressure (exhaust backpressure) was a lot higher that I thought it should be. For 32lbs of boost drive was 55lbs. The turbine housing is a 1.10AR and my turbo builder has suggested to go to a 1.25AR. To test if a larger AR would do anything to reduce drive pressure AND not spend any money I decided to hog out the divider in my current housing. I removed it from the inlet and the whole way through the housing.  After reassembly and testing it doesn't look like this modification did anything for reducing drive pressure or requiring more fuel (making more power). Oh well, it was worth a shot. We'll get some data at the track if it makes it past the 60ft. I also machined a $7 shift knob off Amazon to fit my Stillway shifter since I didn't like the Stillway shift knob. Next on the list was the radiator replacement and fabrication of a new intercooler tube that had no silicon coupler. No pictures of this - I was short on time each night after work to get this done and didn't stop to take pictures.  Next was to get the clutch disks out and replaced. Previously when installing the dogbox I had ordered a set of the same sintered iron disks I had been running because I switched to the 26-spline input shaft. I thought it was odd that they didn't have any markings or brand name on them like all my old disks had but installed them anyway. At the track I could not get the clutch to lock up using my normal strategies. After two track nights I reached out to the clutch manufacturer and ask their thoughts. They said they had to switch the material out because they were having trouble getting the original material and that this new material would not take to being slipped very well.  So out with the first set of 26-spline disks and in with the correct material 26-spline disks. While I had the trans out I added an inspection/service hole. I've wanted one of these for a while. Now I can have a look at things and change the front cover shimming when needed (clutch wear). I hustled and got the clutch change done in a few hours on a Saturday. Hopped in the car and drove home. On the way home I did a 1-3 pull. When shifting from 2nd to 3rd the core plug in the back of the cylinder head popped out and dumped all the coolant. Thankfully I was only 30 seconds from home and coasted it there. Datalog showed nothing unusual and 2.5psi of coolant pressure. That plug has been in there since 1992 but I guess it worked its way out. Pulled the trans AGAIN and replaced the plug, JB welded it in, and made a brace. Also deleted the head drain I had added in during the bearing issue fiasco.  I am currently changing my boost control plumbing to make it cleaner. After that is done I'll make another attempt at getting past the 60.
×
×
  • Create New...