Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi there everyon i was on cardomain and came upon this very sexy looking R34 that i thought was a GTR by the way it looks. Reading from the specs of the exterior it had a do-luck front bar. i went to do-luck.co.uk to search for it and came upon one but it was for GTR R34. But when looking at the pictur on cardomain it looks like he had stock fenders on?

if that is true then the bumper had a perfect fitment or he had some mods done to fit it. he does has a top secret bonnet but was that made for the GTR or GTT?

there is the same do-luck body kit at dmdtheimage.com but the grille is a bit different made for the GTT bonnet i guess. also at uras.com they sell a bonnet lip for the gtt i think to make it look like the GTR. Me i would go for the kit from uk but jus couldnt be sstuff with the hassle of shipping and that.

So if it was you would you get the uk kit or dmdtheimage do-luck kit with the bonnet lip from uras?

pics are here also

post-35080-1253115597_thumb.jpg

post-35080-1253115654_thumb.jpg

post-35080-1253115710_thumb.jpg

post-35080-1253115764_thumb.jpg

post-35080-1253115809_thumb.jpg

post-35080-1253115878_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/288334-perfect-r34-gtt-replica-of-gtr/
Share on other sites

so you want a do luck front bar with the GTR bonnet?

i have the DMD Do-Luck front bar.. but with the gtt look.. try asking if they are able to supply it with the top lip..

the bar isnt a genuine Do Luck, it was fabricated from the bodyshop. the bonnet lip was also fabricated.

The bonnet is a genuine GTR Top Secret Bonnet with GTR Latches and hindges.

if you want a bonnet lip dont get the one in your opening post. get this one.

r34_eyeline3.jpg

of course if you buy genuine from do luck youll still need GTR hindges latches and fenders. because the bar is made around the GTR. and it will set you back $2500AUD just for the bar without freight.

the only reason it fits on the yellow GTT up there is because it was all completely custom made for the GTT.

hope this helps

Edited by Jap_Muscle

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...