Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone else had troubles with the idle quality of their car after fitting power fc?

Since fitting mine, it has a tendancy to hunt. Mainly when coming back in revs, and it will settle down after a while - but initially it is pretty poor.

I dont believe it is the decelleration fuel cut recovery rpm setting, as I have tried different settings with no avail. The car will idle smoothly if left long enough at idle, so I dont think it is the AAC valve either?

Has anyone else has had this problem, and had any luck with fixing it?

Cheers

Steve

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/28874-poor-idle-with-power-fc/
Share on other sites

I've got the same problem, although it is still better than the stock ECU. Sometimes it will die soon after starting, and I have to give the accelerator pedal a few pumps to get it to idle properly for maybe 10 seconds or so when cold. But it's not always like this when cold for some reason.

My idle setting doesn't seem to do anything either, the car seems to idle wherever it likes, and it changes every so often up or down. I might have a faulty idle control motor or something.

Unrelated id say.

Shitty idle most likely due to 0/2 Feedback still being on, makes idle pretty crap turn that off and idle will be great.

<----------------- how is this done??? how can u turn it off. soz dont know much about this topic but im interested. and finally how much can a PFC get picked up for brand new/ second hand

cheers

If you turn off your 02 feedback, it could result in worse economy.

02 feedback is used for closed loop running, such as cruise or idle - it will try and get the mixtures as lean as possible - AFAIK

I tried switching off 02 feedback, and it made no difference. This is something that happened as soon as the power fc was plugged in. with stock ecu it was fine. Cant run stock ecu anymore though, as I have injectors and afm upgrade.

Hmm, I can't see how your economy wouldn't suffer from turning that off. My idle isn't bad enough that I'm willing to sacrifice economy. I think I'll leave it on.

Maybe the O2 sensor is faulty? Or would the PowerFC detect the fault and give you a warning light? I'm sure mine is fixable without sacrificing economy, it probably just needs a professional to tune correctly.

I have a really bad idle problem which occurs at all different times. It will start surging from 400rpm to 2500rpm and after a while stall. I think mine is a vacuum leak somewhere coz it happened about a week after i drove with the pfc.

I havent driven my car for 7 weeks anyway, being built plus i am away for work, so hopefully i can sus the problem out when the new turbo etc finially goes on and i actually get to drive my car again.

After getting my Power Fc I noticed this a bit to. It does not idle as high when cold and then idles higher when warm. The factory ECU would idle at about 1400 RPM when cold and drop to 800 when warm. The FC idles at about 1200 RPM when cold but after about 30 seconds it drops to 1000 RPM and stays there. Ive also noticed it sometime varies its idle speed by 100 or so RPM. Not something I worry about but it just caught my attention.

INASNT I did the 30 minute idle thing and it seemed ok, but then it started to have a mind of its own. Is there a way to reset the idle self-learning thing again without reseting the whole unit?

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
    • You think its the AFM? I know its a common issues on R32s. I find it coincidental how this issue raised right after cleaning the fuel system. As everything except the fuel system was fine before. I tried running it with the IACV unplugged but did not notice a difference and still stalled. However, the RPM gauge is not in the cluster right now, so I will need to connect the laptop again and use Nistune to check the RPM. I will check this weekend.
×
×
  • Create New...