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May I ask why did you go iridiun and also why did you go 8's?

I was just wondering because from every thing ive seen you are better of running normal plugs and replacing then every 10k or so due to the fact they have a better burn under high load and it works out cheaper

Edited by lawler
May I ask why did you go iridiun and also why did you go 8's?

I was just wondering because from every thing ive seen you are better of running normal plugs and replacing then every 10k or so due to the fact they have a better burn under high load and it works out cheaper

I chose them because they quickly transport away the heat (they stay cooler) and that reduce the knocking (spontaneous explosions). I have run 6 and 7 graded plugs and going up to 7 made a good improvement. The more power the colder plug.

An ultra-fine (0.6mm) center electrode reducing the voltage requirement for spark. This allows for a brighter, stronger spark from existing ignition system. The ground electrode has a tapered cut at the firing end which reduces quenching for better flame core growth and increased ignitability.

They are not too expensive. So changing them every one or two years is OK with me.

The extreme top fuel machines go as high as 9-10 with lots of exotic material on the tips. That suit their engines quite well but for a modest +700 hp machine like mine, it is enough with grade 8 and the "standard" Iridium IX.

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This is how to change the wheel studs to longer ones (not my car on some pictures)

Remove the wheels

img46e10deacbaef.jpg

Remove the bolts on the backside of the brake caliper (socket 17) and hang it up with a bit of wire.

img46e10df277df0.jpg

Remove the center cover on the wheel hub with a flat screwdriver.

img46e10df77ad27.jpg

Remove the lock pin (replace with a new one)

img46e10e0086adc.jpg

Use a pair of flat pliers, squeeze the legs together and press out the pin

img46e10e05493a5.jpg

Remove the centre nut (socket 32). The wheel hub will start rotating, use a long bar or equal between the floor and the wheel studs to hold the wheel hub in place.

img46e10e0c9d530.jpg

When the nut is removed, take out the washer placed behind it and pull off the wheel hub

img46e10e110cdc3.jpg

Press the old studs out. If you dont have a wise or equal, you can hammer them out.

Please try to avoid using to much force when smacking them out, every blow will make small dimples inside the bearings. If you use a small sledge hammer One firm blow is better than multiple smaller ones. Support from behind is good to save the bearings.

img46e10e1e31319.jpg

Place the new longer studs in correct position (splines). Carefully knock them in a bit. Important that the splines are correctly alligned. Use a larger socket and a wheel nut and tighten till the stud is firmly seated towards the back of the hub..

img46e10e264f97a.jpg

Clean all surfaces and put new grease on the bearing surfaces. If you plan to use larger brake discs in the future, it is a good idea to remove the splash guard behinf the brake disc before you remount the disc.

img46e10e2b671b5.jpg

Remount the washer, nut and locking pin. Assemble brake disc and spacer.

img46e10e31f2db3.jpg

Remount the brake caliper

img46e10e372bb73.jpg

Mount the wheels and enjoy the wider stance :)

This is the result on my car (no spacers mounted yet and Camber not adjusted). This is also before the wider fenders are mounted.

img44fb17df8649b.jpg

I use a 5-stud wheel hub with pin studs. Make life much easier

img456607ba27c63.jpg

Longer studs

img4711e7c18b6e1.jpg

Front

img4875050524dd4.jpg

Rear

img487873e372434.jpg

I do not want to mess around with lots of hard to reach screws and nuts so I looked around to find a good solution.

Thanks to Creatix I managed to lay my hands on a bunch of really good Stainless Steel V-band clamps and flanges. They make life so much easier eliminating the hassle with aligning bolted flanges. Easy to mount and dismantle.

I will use them on the exhaust system, the down pipe, the front pipe, the two wastegates and on the turbon :P

img4b61725abe31c.jpg

img4b19653d88012.jpg

img4b0ec4783f16c.jpg

img4b11b135ae62f.jpg

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    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
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