Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

did i or did i not confirm the address with you? Yes i did! this means the address was / is correct part of my key roles at work is freight handling moron

an item of the dimensions you sent shouldn't of taken 20 days to get here or anywhere unless YOU wrote the address wrong.

dont you think i know where i work ive only been working at the place for 10 years!!!!! some people are unbelievable....

and now your blaming Aust Post despite the fact we get deliveries everyday via Aust post and the one thing im waiting on they get wrong?

lets just they did.. RTS freight would of be in your possession a few days later a week after i still have nothing?

sometimes its just better to take responsibilities for your mistakes rather than blaming the whole world for them.

and thanks for the bad trader rating only you can give someone a bad trader rating for your errors

reality is you have both the manifold and the money as far as im concerned ... i STILL have neither

Thanks to everyone thats helped and supported me so far. hopefully this kind of thing serves as a warning to buyers and sellers alike

Obviously you're as stupid as they come considering i told you I sent the item on Friday and then it was returned back to me on the Tuesday which would of ment that the item either got to NSW on Sunday and then sent back on Monday getting back to me on the Tuesday. I was then unable to send the item on the Wednesday, Thursday & Friday due to work commitements therefore, it was sent on Monday just gone. The box was returned with a notice on it saying 'UNKNOWN ADDRESS'

Last time I tell you idiot....

IF YOU GAVE ME THE RIGHT ADDRESS IN THE FIRST PLACE, YOU WOULD HAVE THE STUPID THING BY NOW

Yeah, you confirmed the address, doesn't mean shit since it still came back to me with that notice on it.

Hiroshima Screamer: Please confirm as soon as you receive the manifold from Neural.

Thank you

Feel free to go make your report to the authorities now like you've already threaten.

Got all the evidence on my side to back me up proving I've sent it.

Like I said in the PM to you, you're more then happy to drag anyone/member/user's name through the MUD on here but when it comes to a workshop, you put a stop to it straight away.

Anyway... I've had enough with dealing with this shit from off here.

The item was sent, the authorities are dealing with it and I sure as hell aint getting no appology from the idiot who brought it or the Moderator for dragging my name through the mud on here.

RIGHT!!

Item has been delivered as stated by the tracking through the Australia Post website.

29/10/09 10:26 Delivered LEIGHTONFIELD PDC

29/10/09 05:09 Onboard with driver LEIGHTONFIELD PDC

29/10/09 03:32 Processed at facility LEIGHTONFIELD PDC

Now since I'll get no appology from either the buyer nor the moderator on here for calling me a scammer, please close this account.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...