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Warm Up Burnout.....

chalky

By chalky,
in Motorsport Discussion & Builds

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chalky Community Regular

chalky

Posted
Posted

ok well i got a r32 rb20 auto. standard box with a few engine mods nothing major.

i raced my skyline at heathcote raceway and got shocking times of 16s and 17s because of wheel spin.

i didn have slicks or anyting on just "high Perfrormance" street tyres.

Main reason i couldnt get traction was i didn have enough time to do a warm up burnout.

Any of you guys with an auto out there got any ideas on how i can get wheells to spin alot quicker than what they did!!!

I mean they start sloooowly spin when turbo spools up but in the end i dont got enough time to get them smoking.

so any tricks on how to get them going?

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Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

hmm.

I would have thought my rb25det auto stagea would be into the 13's regardless of tyre heat. :whistling:

17's is slow. as a stocker (10psi + catback exhaust) my stag was high 15's and low 16's.

now with 400hp engine (2x as strong as stock) Id be into 13's surely and Id hope 12's with some practice.

perhaps you need a line locker kit? to lock the front brakes but release the rears?

hold brakes down front, rears spin and heat up.

could be too that your suspension isnt as well setup as it could be.....

plus the rb20det auto isnt putting out a huge amount of power anyways.......

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R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
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I never do a huge burnout on street rubber, just enough to dry the tyres out IF you have to drive over the water patch.

No point otherwise, heating them up makes them useless.

I raced a fair bit on 225 street tyres, the best 60ft i could get with 220rwkw was 1.8, which wasn't too bad, no big burnout at all.

IMO you need to learn to load up the auto, either way auto + RB20 = 15-16 sec IMO, so you are about right

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chalky Community Regular

chalky

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i got ur usual mods such as fmic, bov, boosted to 10psi pod, an timing advanced a tad

it just seems as thomy street tyres are to grippy or something?? because i roled up to the line, put it in 1st and brakes fully on and accel full on at wheels just spun. thats on a smooth race strip.

i have no hope in hell on bitumen!

i have 17x10 at the rear would this be affecting it?

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Basti Grand Master

Basti

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because i roled up to the line, put it in 1st and brakes fully on and accel full on at wheels just spun. thats on a smooth race strip.

theres your problem. rev to about 2.5-3k. dont full throttle till you sidestep the brake. also yank on the handbrake to stop the wheel spin and then drop it as you launch

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R.I.P.S NZ Collaborator

R.I.P.S NZ

Posted
Posted

side step = take your foot off.

have it in 1st, slowly come up and stage nice and shallow, one staged, keep your foot hard on the brake, bring throttle/rpm up to just before you get wheelspin (or as said above, pull handbrake on hard) experiment with throttle position and rpm till you find just the right spot.

Nail the throttle, take your foot off the brake and drop the handbrake all at the same time just as the last orange lights, and 16s to 17s sounds about right to me, I'm not sure what you were expecting?

Rob

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Psymon Mentor

Psymon

Posted
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When mine was auto it would start a burnout a lot easier if i bounced on and off the brakes a bit. One day i realised i didn't want the auto any more and i was going to put my manual conversion in so i did some D bangers to send the auto off in style, they worked heaps well! Just don't expect the auto to last more than a few times! :P

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  • 3 weeks later...
FULOCK Collaborator

FULOCK

Posted
Posted (edited)
When mine was auto it would start a burnout a lot easier if i bounced on and off the brakes a bit. One day i realised i didn't want the auto any more and i was going to put my manual conversion in so i did some D bangers to send the auto off in style, they worked heaps well! Just don't expect the auto to last more than a few times! :P

HAHA I did exactly the same thing back when I had my R31 :( that auto had a painfull death!! LOL

I find that racing on 1/4 mile with big rims is useless(ie 17" or 18").... your not gona get grip!!

with my r31, I ran it on 15" Stokies with 225 wide street tyres (Continental's)

my first few runs i was skating all of 1st and 2nd.... and running only high 14's... the trick is to DEFLATE YOUR TYRES!!!!

that's why you need a bigger profile tyre on a smaller size rim..... so then you have room to deflate them - I had mine down to 16psi which then gave me a 13.8sec pass!! and this is with a manual taking off really hard at 5000rpm!! :thumbsup: you will never feel your car launch like that on the street (unless in a GTR)

firstly get yourself some 15" or 16" stokies with 225 or 235 tyres on there, and only have about 16psi in em - your not gona get a good time on 17" or 18" wheels.

start your burnout on the water... rev out 1st gear.... hit second (turbo on 10psi your car should be able to rev out 2nd no problem!!), and once second gets up high in the revs... let off the brakes a little and slowly roll forward off the water while still giving it heaps (keep it above 4500rpms at least) Then you'll see some SMOKE!!!

tyres will be warm - take off as described above, hold it on approx 2000-2500rpms just before you start wheelspin - and I guarantee you'll get a much faster pass......

Edited by FULOCK
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