Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

easy solution:)

take car to Southwest Brake and Clutch and let Dsturbed do the work i bet he willget it all sored easy

Way i see it is he has no money as he trying to do it himself so i prefer he not call ;)

Isnt southwest in Bunbury ?

Could easily afford to pay somebody else to do it for me, but I'd rather build my own car. If its really too much confusion I'll just weld something up myself, all I wanted to know was if anybody knew or not where I could buy pre-made spacers, and I figured it'd make sense in the minds of most that obviously bigger rotors dont suit.

  • 1 month later...

Bump!

Instead of creating a new thread, thought I'll reuse this one

Anyone in Perth actually makes dogbones/adapters? Need a radial mount adapter made up!!

Tried ringing Perth brake parts and it looks like they dont do custom jobs and only supply brake parts etc

Go to the all-knowing South West Breaks seeing as they're sponsors of this site.

There's a place in Kelmscott that is well into brakes though. I think it's AAA Brakes or something.

http://www.aaabrakeresleeving.com.au/

eh. try em.

No mate, silly retard, ANY rotor and caliper will fit onto ANY knuckle assembly, regardless of size...and did you know hot air is better than cold air?

If you have a technical question, ask/bump in the technical question, not here in WA unless you want dumb answers...

In regards to the question, probably alot of brake workshops that will take your money, otherwise fjust make them yourself. I resorted to making my own after this fail thread and it was pretty easy.

No mate, silly retard, ANY rotor and caliper will fit onto ANY knuckle assembly, regardless of size...and did you know hot air is better than cold air?

If you have a technical question, ask/bump in the technical question, not here in WA unless you want dumb answers...

In regards to the question, probably alot of brake workshops that will take your money, otherwise fjust make them yourself. I resorted to making my own after this fail thread and it was pretty easy.

You ever heard of "if you having nothing better to say, dont say it at all?" geez

If the technical section wasn't so eastern state base, I wouldnt have ask in wa section - guess smart arse like you wouldn't help anyway

Mate, did you notice I was the one who started this thread?

All I was saying, is that if you want an answer backed up by more than 5 brain cells, ask in the Brakes/Suspension area, not here in WA, just look at the replies, these dumb-f**ks don't know shit about cars, how cars work, how brakes work, they can't even grasp the concept of needing to mount the caliper further away from the wheel hub center to fit a larger rotor.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...