Jump to content
SAU Community

Black Or White

ripstah
 Share

Recommended Posts

turbosuk Community Regular

turbosuk

Posted
Posted

go white as others have said black is a bastard to clean

had a black xr6 a few years back(then seen the light) it was a bitch to keep clean

id wash it then 2min later you would see the dust on it so my vote is white

ripstah Collaborator

ripstah

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
white... no wait... no go black... ummm.... or white... nah go white, white is awesome... but not as awesome as black... so go black... go on, you know you want to... come over to the dark side.. but white does look good, and clean.. so maybe you should go white... but you know black is better, so go black...

just think.. what would james bond drive?? yeh... you know it... black FTW..

ROFL !

I'll go white since everyone says black is harder to clean and i know i wont be fkd cleaning it every week.

You can also see the lines/definition of the car way more than black.

hmm but blacks just sexy... :devil:

Edited by ripstah
ther Enthusiast

ther

Posted
Posted

it all depends where you live and how often you'll drive the car, notwistanding personal choice.

I have a white 35 and i love it although dust shows up on it as bad as a black car, and forbid if you get a paint chip on it.. there goes a black dot on your white car.....

in the end irrespective of the colour you'll love the car...

  • 2 weeks later...
ripstah Collaborator

ripstah

Posted
  • Author
Posted
it all depends where you live and how often you'll drive the car, notwistanding personal choice.

I have a white 35 and i love it although dust shows up on it as bad as a black car, and forbid if you get a paint chip on it.. there goes a black dot on your white car.....

in the end irrespective of the colour you'll love the car...

show pics of your white 350 ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      @Haggerty this is your red flag. In MAP based ECU's the Manifold pressure X RPM calculation is how the engine knows it is actually...running/going through ANY load. You are confusing the term 'base map' with your base VE/Fuel table. When most people say 'base map' they mean the stock entire tune shipped with the ECU, hopefully aimed at a specific car/setup to use as a base for beginning to tune your specific car. Haltech has a lot of documentation (or at least they used to, I expect it to be better now). Read it voraciously.
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
×
×
  • Create New...