Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry to spam with another thread but I need a quick answer. I've done a search on the forums and found this post in the parts thread:

May be supplied but here i go shift solenoids for an s2 . There are 2 shift solenoids this is the problem . Please do yourself a favor do the self diagnosis on your car . But the part numbers for shift soleniod A & B are . A = 31940-4ax02 . B = 31940-4ax05 . Be sure which one you need A=$350 incl trade B=$415 incl trade . So ther goes my ruddy check .

Can anyone verify that these are correct? About to order one.

Cheers.

dude call MV automatics here in adelaide...

that dude knows his shit... i had my s2 off the road at a few places... all scrached there heads as it was stuck in 2nd what ever u did....

mike i think??? had it like 2 days n was sweet as... shift sol b i was shagged... he re wired it actualy. maybe an option??

dude call MV automatics here in adelaide...

that dude knows his shit... i had my s2 off the road at a few places... all scrached there heads as it was stuck in 2nd what ever u did....

mike i think??? had it like 2 days n was sweet as... shift sol b i was shagged... he re wired it actualy. maybe an option??

Getting all 4 solenoids replaced as an effort to make sure this is the last thing I'll ever need to fix. Solenoid A and B were screwed in the end. Now deciding whether or not to take this oppurtunity to sell it while it's running fine, or hope this is the last thing to go wrong after a string of problems.

Getting all 4 solenoids replaced as an effort to make sure this is the last thing I'll ever need to fix. Solenoid A and B were screwed in the end. Now deciding whether or not to take this oppurtunity to sell it while it's running fine, or hope this is the last thing to go wrong after a string of problems.

Sorry to be so late on this . I posted the part numbers for these . The A solenoid is easy to replace . The B solenoid is a pain in the arse to replace . As you have to drop the hole valve body . And if you do try this be carefull springs and shit jump out . Mine slips into second under power . As for part numbers they are correct . Solenoid A = 31940-4AX02 . Solenoid B = 31940-4AX05 .

Getting all 4 solenoids replaced as an effort to make sure this is the last thing I'll ever need to fix. Solenoid A and B were screwed in the end. Now deciding whether or not to take this oppurtunity to sell it while it's running fine, or hope this is the last thing to go wrong after a string of problems.

Please let me know what it costs you. My car started "flaring" so i was thinking about getting it beefed up when 3rd and 4th disappeared. I started making some enquiries about getting a shift kit and otherwise replacing bits to enable it to handle 270kw and I was looking at $2500 plus with no guarantee that it would handle that power plus being thrashed on track days so i have bought an R33 GTR box and being too old and infirm to do it myself am getting it installed. I expect it will work out cheaper than doing the auto (box was $700 but will post up total incl all parts and labour when its done) but would be interested to know what yours costs.

Please let me know what it costs you. My car started "flaring" so i was thinking about getting it beefed up when 3rd and 4th disappeared. I started making some enquiries about getting a shift kit and otherwise replacing bits to enable it to handle 270kw and I was looking at $2500 plus with no guarantee that it would handle that power plus being thrashed on track days so i have bought an R33 GTR box and being too old and infirm to do it myself am getting it installed. I expect it will work out cheaper than doing the auto (box was $700 but will post up total incl all parts and labour when its done) but would be interested to know what yours costs.

Hi i did all the work myself but with gaskets , fluids & the solenoids all up i did not get much change out of $1000.00 . As for beefing it up i could not help you there . I run my s2 at over 14psi day in day out and i am not kind to it . My slipping prob is a gasket that came out . Not sure where it went there for my slippage prob . My advice if you do it yourself go slow and if you can prop the valve body do it . good luck with this if you want to talk about this i will pm you my mobile .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...