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Problem At Start Up...

Japav

By Japav,
in V Series (V35, V36, V37 & Infiniti)

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Japav Collaborator

Japav

Posted
Posted

Hey guy..

This morning (4am, foggy, approx 15~18 degrees) I start up the engine and noticed the engine, VDC/OFF and SLIP light is on...so I shut it off and start up again and the lights went off.

Drive out my garage(downhill) and was okay, as soon as I hit the road and start accelerating..the lights came back on and no matter how hard I step on the paddle the engine just wont rev up(stays at 1.6,7 KRPM)...so I tried again with shut off and start up about 5,6 time...still the same problem.

I managed to get the car back on half way on the hill to garage....left the car there for around 3~5min and tried again....it was okay, back to normal... :down:

I had to take friend to airport with my bro's car...so left the V in the garage for around 65~70min, got back and test it again and its now normal.....test drive around in the area and had no issue, gearing in D checked, gearing in tiptronic with all 8 "gears" checked, R checked...

I open up engine bay and dont see any sign of leakage...engine oil okay, steering, braking oil all okay, except the coolant is below the MIN line.

Car is only around 3000km from last major service at 80,000km (had issue at the time with petrol leak due to stuffed O ring from the petrol pump).

(Coolant seem to be at a weird level where its only 3000km from last service, except its was kinda hot day yesterday in Melb....)

I am kinda worry about the issue...its now normal but if it happened....likely it would happen again....

Thinking bring it back to City Nissan where I had my 80,000km service tmr to run a diagnose...

Has anyone got an idea on what is wrong?? or anyone has this kind of issue before and what was the solution??

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GoldV35 Enthusiast

GoldV35

Posted
Posted

Yeah temperature can affect electricals if they are a bit dodgy, like bad connections or parts close to total failure.

Best bet definitely get the error codes from diagnostics.

When you get them, call Gareth from CVT NZ and politely ask his advice, he is very helpful and knows the transmission better than anyone.

fcruz3r Experienced

fcruz3r

Posted
Posted

get it on a diagnostic and have it read for codes.

car not revving up can be a variety of factors...dodgy wiring, faulty CPS, and in some cases the TPS, Air flow sensor or 02 sensor can also cause the car to run in limp mode.

I dont think the VDC/slip light has anything to do with the g/box coz the sensors are at the wheels i think.

siu_loong_bao Rising Star

siu_loong_bao

Posted
Posted

I didn't have the same symptoms as u did...but my VDC, engine symbol, etc all went on....This happened after my Stillen Exhaust install...and I couldn't figure out why.....

The culprit was that I forgot to reconnect the AFM....so I guess the 1st thing is to look for any visible sign of loose wires...

Japav Collaborator

Japav

Posted
  • Author
Posted

try to get a booking at City nissan but they busy due to Cup day...

the car is normal, no more issue with the lights or not rev up problem, but I noticed some power decrease since then...suspecting O2 sensor might be the problem...

will get it check with the code soon

  • 1 month later...
V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted

Hey guys.

I now have the same problem, Just got my car back from getting extractors put on. I pick up the car at the end of the day drive to the end of the street and the engine light, slip light and VDC light comes on and it goes into limp mod. Can't get it any faster then 40kmh. So i limp it straight to my mechanics.

Yet to here anything.

Btw. The exhaust guy took two days to put on my extractors and left the bonnet open the whole time so you guessd it, the car battery died. He said he tried to jump start it but it didn't work so he got as auto sparky to come in. He said he had to replace some fuse but it keeped blowing so he put a LARGER FUSE in :D . I aksed is that ok? he said "yeah yeah, it's fine." i said "really?" he finishes with "It's working right?" Then says goodbye and leaves. i hop in the car and drive away then the promblem starts.

CRISP 35 Collaborator

CRISP 35

Posted
Posted
Hey guys.

I now have the same problem, Just got my car back from getting extractors put on. I pick up the car at the end of the day drive to the end of the street and the engine light, slip light and VDC light comes on and it goes into limp mod. Can't get it any faster then 40kmh. So i limp it straight to my mechanics.

Yet to here anything.

Btw. The exhaust guy took two days to put on my extractors and left the bonnet open the whole time so you guessd it, the car battery died. He said he tried to jump start it but it didn't work so he got as auto sparky to come in. He said he had to replace some fuse but it keeped blowing so he put a LARGER FUSE in :D . I aksed is that ok? he said "yeah yeah, it's fine." i said "really?" he finishes with "It's working right?" Then says goodbye and leaves. i hop in the car and drive away then the promblem starts.

doesnt sound too guud Paul, Did u take it to someone here or in Gero? Its prob anoda wiring issue, I notice these cars have a lot of similar problems initially things are changed. Wen i first got my DVD player put in at Brians , wen starting my car, it would start and then switch off immediately. Dat was cuz the sequence of the immobiliser got tampered wid. So yea something has not been done right. Anyways im sure it will turn out ok.

V35_Paul Veteran

V35_Paul

Posted
Posted
doesnt sound too guud Paul, Did u take it to someone here or in Gero? Its prob anoda wiring issue, I notice these cars have a lot of similar problems initially things are changed. Wen i first got my DVD player put in at Brians , wen starting my car, it would start and then switch off immediately. Dat was cuz the sequence of the immobiliser got tampered wid. So yea something has not been done right. Anyways im sure it will turn out ok.

Yeah hopping to hear back from my mechanic today.

It was all done here in Gero.

GoldV35 Enthusiast

GoldV35

Posted
Posted

What a dodgy auto electrician, you should NEVER put in a fuse of a higher rating. Let me get this straight, the 'auto electrician' decided to put in a higher rated fuse after the correct one was blowing? So I guess it was just too hard to fix the actual problem, easier to cover it up, hahahha.

That means that whatever was causing the original fuse to blow is now going straight past unchecked and hitting whatever it is that the fuse is supposed to protect, lets hope its nothing too important.

If I was you I'd be very worried right about now, get the correct fuse back in there and tell them to fix the original problem ASAP, since they obviously caused it.

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