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just clearing out my garage, any questions PM ME!!!

Item: R34 GTR wing

Condition: Good condition pretty sure its a copy, might need a respray for fussy person.

Location: Melb SE suburbs

Price: $350

r32wing.jpg

r34wing2.jpg

Item: Buddy Club P1's 17x8 +32 pair

Condition: average, paint is flaking in places and one has a fair bit of gutter rash, Tyre's are finished

Location: Melb SE suburbs

Price: $350

buddyclub.jpg

buddyclubscrape.jpg

Item: Remapped and standard r32 ECU's

Condition: the remapped one was done by CEF11E its to suit an rb20 with 25 turbo, fmic and exhaust, i had it on my rb20 with stock turbo and it ran well just a little rich.

Location: Melb SE suburbs

Price: $200 for the remapped ecu $150 for the standard ecu

r32ecus.jpg

Item: rb20 gearboxes

Condition: got 2 of these one has a twisted output shaft and the other has a noisy bearing but it shifts great, suit recondition.

Location: Melb SE suburbs

Price: $50 each

gearboxes.jpg

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    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
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