Koya Drift Teks

[BASHO]

They look good.Now to get them powdercoated to a colour that contrasts well against the body.

And put on weight ?--perish ther thought perfect as is IMO.

[Luke_GTS-T]

oww what happened to the fighting??? that was a good read hahaha

[BASHO]

An interesting side benefit of this exercise is the improvement in suspension response , when I bought the car it already had KingSprings fitted with stock OE shockys, I think that the KingSprings were a new addition possibly even done by the dealer , the upshot was that two of the shockys blew shortly after I aquired it (one front one rear) I replaced these with OE but the ride was just short of harsh and you certainly wouldn't want more than recomended tyre pressure in there, it settled down over the last couple of months to being firm but still not as responsive as it should be.

It is now nearly perfect loosing the 3.2 kgs on each corner has put the bounce back in the suspension so rather than trying to flaten every ripple in the road it stays nicely glued down without trying shake the head unit out of the dash--and thats with stupidly over inflated tyres.----------------------------------and why do tyre shops do that-- + rattle gunning the stud nuts down so hard you need a breaker bar to get them orf arrrrrrggggggh

[scathing]

(Lack of) unsprung weight is awesome.

And the reason why big tyre shops do that is because they're mostly staffed by knuckle-dragging morons, who are used to working on cars with stock nuts and whose owners would be able to figure out how to defeat the future and get the LHC to work well before they could figure out how to get the wheel off their own car.

Its fast to just rattle them on, and its fast to just have them torqued up as high as possible so they're not too loose for any car.

Next time, find a shop that actually gives a f**k. I only take my car to tyre shops that hand tighten wheel nuts with a torque wrench they check and/or adjust beforehand.

[bozodos]

the goodyear I went to did them up partially with a rattle gun then finished tightening the nuts by hand.

[nisskid]

nothing wrong with a rattle gun set on low torque, if the stud is threaded by hand, and it's finished with a torque wrench, and when i say finished, i mean not just "checked" with the torque wrench like a lot do, u want to at least move the wrench a bit before it clicks, so u know it's on the right torque, not just at least at the torque, probably over.

btw this is assuming they are steel nuts, imo alloy nuts should be done purely by hand, and only when cold.

[nato_wp]

So a stock 17x7.5 GTT wheel weighs in at 11.69kg by my mental maths...yep?

...and a 17x8 Driftek could weigh anything between 8 and 11kg...

...and the brand new 18x10 Work XD9's in the corner of my dining room don't have the weight stamped on them, or labelled on the sticker...

[bozodos]

put em on the scales lol. From what I've read, Work rims (which are apparently made by Rays are targetted more as a 'VIP' than a racing rim and tend to weigh more.)

[nisskid]

work and rays are totally different wheel manufacturers. work make high quality wheels, they also make low quality wheels, like rays, just depends how much u wanna pay. but to give u an idea emotions are around AU$1000 in the JDM, so ur not getting a great deal of wheel, albeit more than what koya, rota and lenso are.

[scathing]

put em on the scales lol. From what I've read, Work rims (which are apparently made by Rays are targetted more as a 'VIP' than a racing rim and tend to weigh more.)

Pretty sure RAYS don't design Work.

They've got a billion brands on their web site (like Versus, Arthur eXchange and Black Fleet which seems to be their blingers) but Work isn't one of them.

[nisskid]

Pretty sure RAYS don't design Work.

They've got a billion brands on their web site (like Versus, Arthur eXchange and Black Fleet which seems to be their blingers) but Work isn't one of them.

work are work, rays are rays, both have sub-brands like volk-racing etc

[nato_wp]

put em on the scales lol.

Would've if I had some...then I would have told you how much they weigh in my first post.

[toddlls]

I've got the Koya's, they are cheap, the are not a Rays wheel, but they do for a streeter which sees a little track work ok. I have had no probs with them & would recommend them as a cheaper option to some of the pressure forged gear like OZ, Rays Racing, Enkei.

As far as the arguments on here go- any person who blows their own trumpet after buying & fitting "2nd hand quality rims", especially which have been repaired after an impact which causes a buckle is a dead-set dropkick & should be ignored like the complete & utter moron they really are.

Further more once any rim has been damaged throw the bloody thing away & buy a replacement for it-dont risk your's or a passengers life over something like $300-$700

At the end of the day Koya's are approx 10 kg's in a 17x8.

Enkei's are approx 7-9 kg's dependant upon model

3kg's in a race is a huge amount.

Howeva, if your worried about damaging your rims, or cause you bent one in a drift or off a ripple strip at track & this is a serious concern for you then stop racing or drifting as its probably too expensive for you anyway. Motorsport is an expensive & dangerous hobby. So, I will say again- if replacing a damaged wheel is too expensive-give the game away. Don't repair a damaged or buckled rim-buy a replacement.

& if mummy & daddy are loaded & buy it all for you-do you need a brother???????????

Take care mate

[bozodos]

dunno where I read that about ray's manufacturing Work rims, but then hey I could very well be wrong!

WTF is wrong with buying second hand rims from a parts place? going by that logic, no one should buy any used parts lol.

[toddlls]

dunno where I read that about ray's manufacturing Work rims, but then hey I could very well be wrong!

WTF is wrong with buying second hand rims from a parts place? going by that logic, no one should buy any used parts lol.

There is nothing wrong with good condition 2nd hand rims-or anything 2nd hand for that matter(have bought plenty myself & will continue to in the future also)-providing you understand what it is you've bought & are aware of any factors which may affect performance or reasoning why they were sold as a used item.

Comparing them to newly bought ones of a cheaper range they should still & usually will out perform the cheaper copy items like I have, what I cant handle is someone bagging the crap outa anything they dont like personally then giving an opinion like using a reconditioned or repaired rim is ok or far better quality & leading others on that this repaired item is still stronger than what the guy was looking for in the original post of this thread. I was under the impression that a rim weight was asked for. Not some diatribe about

a particular view or opinion then carrying on about it- like he does in any thread he visits.

We here in SAU are usually all pretty cool, we give advice, opinions to help & possible contacts to get the right price for our forum mates or even those we have never met without any expectation of return. Unfortuneatly, there is a growing contingent of those who are on here for the wind-up. I wish that type would just bugga off back to the holden forum or whatever rock the crawlled from & leave this place to those who can get benefit-like new members or even old farts like me who are relatively new to the Skyline scene & are here to learn from some true masters of the RB build type.

At the end of the day, people buy what eva it is they like personally. Far be it for me to bag their decision as I am sure others may not like the setup I have on my car- but then again they might-so therefor should I style my car how everyone else wants to see it or how I like it?

similarly, should you follow the leader also? No, I dont think so- do what eva makes YOU happy

[scathing]

WTF is wrong with buying second hand rims from a parts place?

There's nothing wrong with buying second hand rims.

But its a bit specious to give shit to people who buy low-priced "cheap" wheels of variable quality that are unused, and recommend they buy low-priced "expensive" wheels of variable condition that have been used.

Your "parts place" guy isn't going to be a metallurgist with access to equipment to scan for internal fractures or over-stressed points on the wheel. Sure they might offer you a warranty on the wheel rather than buying privately, but I'd rather just not crash than to have my wheels replaced if one breaks.

In the end, chances are both are probably going to be fine for street and very light track usage, but I don't think you should trust either if you're at the pointy end of the field in a competitive motorsport category.

going by that logic, no one should buy any used parts lol.

There are certain things I won't buy used. Generally, mission critical and fast-wearing parts that cop a lot of stress. I don't like second hand tyres, unless I'm planning on ripping skids on them. I wouldn't buy used pads and rotors. I wouldn't fit used coilovers without having them rebuilt first.

These are all things that can pass a visual inspection while still being seriously deficient, and if they fail on you then you're in big trouble.

[_Ryan_]

http://www.wheelweights.net/

look up your works.

[toddlls]

There's nothing wrong with buying second hand rims.

But its a bit specious to give shit to people who buy low-priced "cheap" wheels of variable quality that are unused, and recommend they buy low-priced "expensive" wheels of variable condition that have been used.

Your "parts place" guy isn't going to be a metallurgist with access to equipment to scan for internal fractures or over-stressed points on the wheel. Sure they might offer you a warranty on the wheel rather than buying privately, but I'd rather just not crash than to have my wheels replaced if one breaks.

In the end, chances are both are probably going to be fine for street and very light track usage, but I don't think you should trust either if you're at the pointy end of the field in a competitive motorsport category.

There are certain things I won't buy used. Generally, mission critical and fast-wearing parts that cop a lot of stress. I don't like second hand tyres, unless I'm planning on ripping skids on them. I wouldn't buy used pads and rotors. I wouldn't fit used coilovers without having them rebuilt first.

These are all things that can pass a visual inspection while still being seriously deficient, and if they fail on you then you're in big trouble.

Excellent info in that reply-exactly what I was trying to say be4 I saw red & lost the plot at N***kid

[bozodos]

yeah thats both pretty fair points from both you guys, I like that about SAU, the general consensus of logical thinking over emotions.

I personally don't know if my TE37's are new or used given that I bought the car with them, they have gutter rash (FFS), but otherwise look fine. I personally don't like cheap rims, especially anything that can be bought from Tempe Tyres or Bob Jane, ESPECIALLY on a JDM car, and Koya Drifteks whilst looking better than your average BJ rim, are still an inferior copy of a Ray's LMGT4.

I do agree with you Scathing, personally I wouldn't buy second hand coilovers that hadn't been rebuilt, nor a second hand turbo or wastegate, I prefer to keep things stock in that kind of instance rather than take the risk of an underperforming part.

on an unrelated note, my best mate thought the rims he bought for his HR 31 were ROH, but as it turns out were Auto Strada Modenas in 17x 8.5 (not sure), and 17x 9.5 at the rear, they look fat as!

[scathing]

I personally don't like cheap rims, especially anything that can be bought from Tempe Tyres or Bob Jane, ESPECIALLY on a JDM car, and Koya Drifteks whilst looking better than your average BJ rim, are still an inferior copy of a Ray's LMGT4.

They might be inferior, but as long as they're "fit for purpose" then they're as good as they need to be.

As an analogy.......

My personal belief is that any R32-R34 chassis Skyline coupe that isn't powered by an RB26DETT are inferior copies of the GT-R (which is why I'd never buy one).

While I'll sometimes call them ricers over owning a car that looks like a fast car but isn't (generally when they're talking their cars up so much that they'd give VTEC fans a run for their money in the bullshit stakes), I can accept that the car meets their needs.

I'm sure almost all non-R owners would love a GT-R parked in their garage, but street cars they own get them around town reliably and comfortably at a price they can afford. There's a decent amount of power and handling, and aesthetics that suit them. Most will never use a GT-R to a point where its benefits over the lesser models become apparent in their existing usage patterns, and so all that extra extra engineering is unnecessary (and a waste).

I see cheaper wheels in the same way. I was looking at getting Drifteks for my MR2, but that's because it'll spend its life cruising around town. I don't plan on tracking the car more than once or twice when the tyres hit "end of life", just to see how MR cars handle, and if I take it up to the hills it'll mostly be with the roof off enjoying the country air. Most of the time it'll just be ferrying me around town. Mates of mine have them on their cars and they do touge/circuit/drift on them without issue. For how I'm going to drive the car, they would be good enough and almost half the price new as what people are asking for used LM GT4s.