nato_wp

I don't know what your role is mate, but if you're involved in law enforcement or investigation regarding automotive theft, then I'm sure you already do more than what your duties are meant to be, and we appreciate it. I trust you had a happy birthday! I reported the theft at Palm Beach Police Station. I have a phone now, so if you have any information, please contact ME on 0411 544 307, rather than my friend on the previous number. Thanks.

My black 1999 R34 was stolen from Currumbin Alley/Currumbin Point carpark while I was surfing this (2-12-11) afternoon, between 1:00pm-1:50pm. DATE STOLEN: 2/12/2011 REGO:CC243X (SA plated car) TYPE: R34 4 Door sedan CONTACT DETAILS: Michael Coppola 0413 407768 (a friend). Or email me: nato(dot)wp(at)gmail(dot)com Distinguishing Features: - It had soft-roof-racks on it at the time - South Australian 'Premium' Licence plates CC-243X, slimline front, square rear: see pics - Series 2 front bar - Sunroof - 4-door - Full factory aero-option body kit, including rear wing.\ - Driver's side faded carbon-look S1 factory B-pillar vinyl, passenger side matte black B-pillar vinyl - R33 GTR wheels wrapped in Federal 595-SS's - Factory Exhaust IF YOU SEE (OR SAW) THIS CAR ANYTIME THIS AFTERNOON, PLEASE CALL THE POLICE AND REPORT IT! If you are not comfortable calling the police, please contact me via email, PM, or the number above, which is a friend's number. If YOU have the car, congratulations. I left my guard down, put some faith in society, and you got a very tidy R34 for essentially zero effort. The car I can replace, but personal stuff in it is absolutely essential to me. PLEASE CONTACT ME TO ANONYMOUSLY RETURN MY BLACKBERRY, WALLET WITH CARDS (the bank cards have all been blocked, by the way) AND THE HANDBAG. I need these items immediately. I'd also like to add that you successfully destroyed my visiting friends' Queensland holiday, as we won't be able to get into Stereosonic without ID's, and there's no way to get any between now and Sunday morning.

Did anyone save this image? if so, could you re-upload it please?

They love it. You will wish you had cruise control (not an option on skylines unfortunately) though. I've done 4380km in a week, across the Nullarbor and back. Fuel consumption isn't an attribute of imports as a rule, so expect something in the 350-450km range from a tank of 50L (the most I've put in mine was 54L...I think I was pushing boundaries that time ) As far as road handling, comfort, etc, they're pretty good, if it's turbo, then there's plenty of power available for overtaking, I haven't been in an N/A. Mine gets a lot of use, and is now at ~170,000km, I've only really had typical maintenance and wear and tear issues (rear wheel bearings being the most significant). A few of my mates have bought them since I've had mine, so I guess that speaks for itself.

This one > turbobygarrett.com You will need to get an experienced professional to re-program that 'drift chip' for you, to suit the new turbo, your intercooler, and the new boost setting you're running, otherwise it will effectively just be like button mashing your xbox when playing a new fighting game...surprisingly it works a lot of the time, but never anywhere near as well as it should, and often you die without knowing why. *also, can a mod put this in the appropriate section, thanks.

Quite valid points, however, I get the feeling that 32 wasn't in completely factory spec (from airbox snorkel through to exhaust tips). I do intend to check that 02 sensor out, I did specifically ask the guys at the time to check it for me, and they said it was ok, but I never confirmed that myself.

My dead stock (everything) R34 GTT on the dyno at 126,000km had AFR's starting from 11.8 going to 10.2 at the top end (ie, ridiculously rich) I will eventually be installing a Nistune board and getting it remapped to neaten that fuel map up to be a little more reasonable.

In all honesty? Go down to Smooth Garage at Wingfield and have a chat to Nicko, it was his car...he could tell you all about it.

A more relevant point is that typically when you lose it during a drift, you had little or no traction at the rear wheels, and then you lost control or traction at the fronts, and a tyre sliding perpendicular to it's designed direction of travel (in the most extreme example of slip angle) isn't going to transfer much braking force before it locks up completely, causing you to skid in the direction of momentum until you slow down. You may use the brakes to initiate the drift (a jab to transfer weight to the front), if so, you would possibly require a setup that can hold a bit more heat, but again, stock brakes with good fresh fluid and a nice midrange pad (Another advocate of QFM products here btw) should be more than adequate until you have enough experience to begin identifying specific areas of improvement on your own.

I have searched for nearly 5 days straight every night, and came to the conclusion that although a lot of people want to know which wheel bearings fit, no one actually gave us hard evidence or even a personal account of which ones do. This is what they should look like: note the handbrake bracket. Courtesy of this guy (Eu Jin):EJ's ER34.blogspot Nissan FAST reference Part No. 43210-AA100 does NOT fit. It looks like this; and is cross-referenced with S13/S15 numbers. Nissan Part Numbers 43281-AA100 for the left side and 43280-AA100 for the right side - also do NOT fit, they look the same, but the centre hole is larger, requiring a custom spacer ring to mount them. (note: the separate part numbers only mean that the screw in the bracket changes from one hole to the other) 'Elite Racing' in topic "R34 Gt Rear Wheel Bearing - Part number?" - there was no confirmation either way on that second number. CBC in Regency Park, South Australia quoted part number NJ246-A to fit R34 GTT (RWD). This is suspiciously similar to the NTN part number Just Jap quote: NTN-NJ246A Just Jap Site However, 'DECIM8' in the same topic as above: With 4 different numbers from Nissan and 3 of them confirmed wrong, and one unconfirmed...well, I'm not sure I want to pull my daily to bits just yet, and it desperately needs doing. Has anyone experienced success, personally, finding a DIRECT REPLACEMENT rear wheel bearing for an R34 GTT (RWD), and if so please post here, with supplier and part number.

I have searched for nearly 5 days straight every night, and came to the conclusion that although a lot of people want to know which wheel bearings fit, no one actually gave us hard evidence or even a personal account of which ones do. This is what they should look like: note the handbrake bracket. Courtesy of this guy (Eu Jin): EJ's ER34.blogspot Nissan FAST reference Part No. 43210-AA100 does NOT fit. It looks like this; and is cross-referenced with S13/S15 numbers Nissan Part Numbers 43281-AA100 for the left side and 43280-AA100 for the right side - also do NOT fit, they look the same, but the centre hole is larger, requiring a custom spacer ring to mount them. (note: the separate part numbers only mean that the screw in the bracket changes from one hole to the other) 'Elite Racing' in topic "R34 Gt Rear Wheel Bearing - Part number?" - there was no confirmation either way on that second number. CBC in Regency Park, South Australia quoted part number NJ246-A to fit R34 GTT (RWD). This is suspiciously similar to the NTN part number Just Jap quote: NTN-NJ246A Just Jap Site However, 'DECIM8' in the same topic as above: With 4 different numbers from Nissan and 3 of them confirmed wrong, and one unconfirmed...well, I'm not sure I want to pull my daily to bits just yet, and it desperately needs doing. Has anyone experienced success, personally, finding a DIRECT REPLACEMENT rear wheel bearing for an R34 GTT (RWD), and if so please post here, with supplier and part number.

double post

Your email is set to private. And what is your location? It may be considered prying, but why are you selling this stuff?

I want to buy it just because it's too cheap! ..even though I already have one. You're killing me here mate, please list it on carsales for at least $11,000, I can't believe people would low-ball on this ...Hi, I'd like to extend my personal loan please. Sure, how much for, and why? ...$10,000, to buy an R34 sedan from interstate. On your records it says that's the reason the original loan was for, what happened to that money? ...Well, I bought that car, I actually drove it here today...but I want one in silver as well...

10:45am Black R34 4-door with factory position foglights, factory rear wing, no kit, silver meshies, privacy glass @ the rear. Pulled up next to me at the Byards/Kenihans Lights, I saw it in my side mirror, and subconsciously thought I was seeing the reflection of my car ( I do check it out in windows all the time haha), then realised as I turned left and it turned right that there were a lot of things that didn't match... Mine would be the the one with full factory kit, factory wing, and R33 GTR wheels.

Hahaha, Dan's R34 is quite possibly the most whore'd 4-door 34... You're the 4th or 5th owner I know of since I looked at buying it in '09, before I got mine. (back then:)

I have never met 'Clutch' before, and I have no idea what he does for a living, however... I did a search on his suspension related posts. 70% are in this specific thread. The other 30% are asking why his coilover is leaking. He doesn't really seem to me like a credible suspension expert. I am not claiming that I am a suspension expert, however, I have researched a fair bit on the subject, as it is a personal interest of mine. I am a heavy vehicle mechanic for a living. A swaybar connects one side of the suspension to the other. This means that one side cannot compress without also partly compressing the other. Which, in effect, means that when the Mass of a cornering vehicle pushes down on the outside suspension, it has to also push down on the inside, meaning the vehicle stays flat through the corner, thus, the vehicle has less body roll. A spring is designed to separate the chassis and body of the vehicle from the changing road surfaces, ie; allow the wheel to move up and down over bumps to maintain tyre/road contact without the passengers bouncing around everywhere. The shock absorber slows this bouncing of the spring by essentially forcing it to move at the same rate as a volume of oil passing through an orifice. A swaybar is specifically designed to reduce body roll. A spring is specifically designed to keep tyres in contact with the road while allowing a smooth ride in the cabin. Maddowse: You should go and have a look at the suggestions by Sydneykid. He has a lot of experience in setting up skyline suspension, and I believe he would agree with me in saying that unless it is for a specific situation, you should aim for a well-balanced suspension setup, by upgrading both front and rear swaybars by equal percentage. Keep in mind that tyres are the most important part of your suspension setup, and bad tyres will always result in terrible handling, no matter how good the rest of your components are.

FOR SALE: 1984 Nissan S12 Gazelle, Red, Notchback Location: Adelaide Post/Freight or Pick up: Prefer pickup, but if you're keen to do the legwork, we can ship it to Alaska! Asking Price: $4000 slightly negotiable. Do the mental maths, I bought it stock in 2007. You can see I'm losing out massively, still would be even if I got the car for free... (No trades. Selling because I'm moving interstate and can only take 1 car.) Kilometres: ~273,000 on stock bits of chassis, ~130,000 on engine, 000,004 on gearbox, etc, etc Transmission: Manual Engine Type: CA18DE Modifications: Interior; R33 Passenger side seat (Driver's side was put back to stock because I couldn't wear a helmet in it, the base was too tall) GKtech 90mm Deep Dished steering wheel Old-school Kenwood CD player. Exterior; Black bonnet Clear bumper indicator lenses 14" Gold mesh/silver lip ROH wheels offset unknown. Suspension/Steering; Solid Urethane engine mounts S13 front Lower control arms (factory bushes) S13 front knuckles S13 ISC N1 fully adjustable coilovers with option upper bearings, 4kg/mm, bought new, approx 10,000km old. S13 front brakes (CA) Rack Spacers S13 Tie rods S13 Tie-rod ends S12 front swaybar R31 Castor rods (nolathane bushes) Welded H190, painted black. Fully replaced all 4-Link bushes. Powder coated 4-Link Arms. Factory rear springs Pedders rear shock absorbers Custom twin rear swaybar setup (don't diss it til you've tried it, an oldschool technique originating in rally) Driveline; Exedy 'Heavy Duty' clutch (Originally I had an Extreme, which died after only 6 months) CA20 gearbox, which I rebuilt about 4km ago. Welded H190, 3.9:1 ratio I believe. Engine; CA18DE from a ricer's S13. -Replaced all heater hoses -Removed a lot of unnecessary ones too, (including firewall heater hoses) -No-name Pod filter -CA20 Starter Motor Other; Nistune ECU with single user licence (plug in your laptop while driving for diagnostics, btw the ECU can be remapped to suit CA18DET duties) Walbro 255L/m GSS in-tank fuel pump. Above re-wired to run direct battery power, relayed correctly, using custom plug'n'play loom. Thermo fan (Used a Factory Automatic thermo, not relayed - dash swtich) Battery Relocated to boot Roof racks...I have a kayak. Imagine the looks I got coming through an intersection sideways with a kayak on the roof Complianced: Australian Delivered. Road Worth Certificate: South Australia. Not required, and no. Registration: No. Can be renewed (not defected). Crash History: Has Accident History - Inspection Welcome, repaired by MC Doyles in 2007. Other Comment's about the vehicle: I have a shedload of cool spares for you to add to your purchase (buyer gets preference, leftovers go on sale): *Spare DE+T long motor with blown head gasket *Turbo conversion parts: -Turbo Manifold -T25G -If you purchase the engine above, you get the adapted sump you'll need -Obscure intercooler pipes and clamps *RB20DET AFM & Plug *CA18DE Exhaust Cam X2 (run them, with adjustable gears and dyno-tuned, to gain midrange) *4xGTR 440cc injectors, flow-tested (no report, sorry, it's been lost) *Re-wired CA18DET resistor pack (to go with the GTR injectors for correct resistance) *KA24DE Throttle body (you need to dremel out the factory CA18 inlet manifold to make use of extra diameter this gives) *Multi-Layered Steel 1.3mm head gasket. *S12 Silvia C-pillar trim panels. *WK Statesman clear guard indicators (new) *S13 SR Alloy Rims *910 Bluebird TRX mes hies, centres painted black, lip silver. *Blitz Full-Auto turbo timer (R34 Loom currently attached) *S12 factory front strut/knuckle/brake assemblies. Pedders shock absorbers. *Spare red boot, no spoiler holes, straight, flaking paint. *Spare indicator stalks (Sometimes it gets a bit hektik changing lanes...) *Factory Switches (so you can be like James Bond with your 18 missile launchers) *Factory warning light bar, (I wanted to change the bulb colour and type so you could actually see them during the day) *Spare CA20 gear shifter (I investigated alternate angles) *3" Mechanical Exhaust shut-off valve. Reconditioned. *S12 Parkers x2 pairs. *R33 Driver's Seat - dismantled to investigate possiblity of merging with S12 seat. *S12 Passeneger's Seat *S12 Throttle Cable (why do I have this...?) There is a more small stuff, I just haven't seen it for a while and couldn't tell you what it all is. Contact Details: Nato (Nathan Townsend): 0411 544 307 With the engine goodies I have, a T2860RS, FMIC setup, and turbo-back exhaust, I would expect in the vicinity of 180rwkw @ 16-18psi with a tune. That's where the project was going. Career decisions mean that I've lost a lot of blood, sweat, and tears, let alone money, without ever seeing it finished, and hardly ever driving it. But it was an absolute ball when I did In basically its current state it will slide 3 lanes just from flat-changing 2nd-3rd in the wet on a flat straight road.

You should make it a condition of sale that the new owner joins SAU and does at least one cruise a year. I can only question one modification: the Nismo badge. I didn't get the feeling that indicators and brake lines were the most important things on the car to you...why credit Nismo over anyone else? (I have a genuine Nismo 'aero' front bar, and after all your talk about your east bear kit - looks awesome, I agree - I thought you'd have an East Bear Badge...)

Tyres are SOLD pending payment, thanks.