nato_wp

Feel free to post them in this thread, so that when people search, they might actually find them

I have fitted rack spacers to my thrash car, an S12. (No HICAS). I think they're the best thing since sliced bread. I want to put some on my R34 daily, (dead stock) for parking type duties, however I'm concerned about the effect on the HICAS system, which I happen to like, and admire the engineering concept of - haters can leave my thread....now. I understand the HICAS system only comes into effect at 60+kmh (can someone confirm/deny with evidence or reason?). What are the controlling inputs for HICAS? With this knowledge, I should be able to decide for myself whether rack spacers will have any detrimental effect on the existing systems of my car Can someone point me to a COMPLETE workshop manual for an R34 GTT, I'd prefer sedan, but beggars can't be choosers. I have one copy, but it's mostly not there.

Leave the stock rear spring rates and dampers, and raise the rear right height by 10-15mm, then lower the front by the same. This angled stance encourages more weight transfer to the rear end on take-off, resulting in more traction at launch. Use a higher profile sticky tyre to absorb the shock and 'hook up' better, and if you don't have some sort of mechanical diff lock, then get one so that both rears hook up exactly the same every time, with an up-graded rear swaybar to resist the torque transfer to the chassis. You're obviously using the widest tyres you can fit under there...right? If you are still having issues after doing all that, then you'll have to decide how much driveablility you're willing to sacrifice to launch harder. Another thing is that you can get your computer mapping changed to only hit full RPM/boost later, when you are already moving, ie launch control.

Can you PM me where you bought them from, and what model they were? I'm in the process of checking options for my R34 GTT (310mm) Fronts, and I had been planning on using DBA 4000 Slotted. If you think you can get a comparable or better street rotor for less, I'm interested! Also, please, more contributions of experiences. So far I can only see: "stock cracked, RDA cracked 4 times, DBA lasted 2 years so far and still going" - Joejoejoe...etc

Well...how about a code 37? I currently have my "TCS OFF" and "Slip" lights on as soon as I move it out of 'P'. That, I assume is a broken wire, as it gradually blipped in and out until giving up completely. However, I once tried starting it in 'D', which gave me an engine warning light, this code 37. Engine Off for 4+ hrs, still there, so I cleared the codes, and it stayed away, until this afternoon, came back. no apparent reason. What does 37 refer to? Harey: to read the codes, you begin with the ignition off. -turn key to 'ON' without starting it. (should have about 20,000 lights lit on your dash about now, including the engine light) -bridge the two pins for 2+ seconds: top row, last on the Right, of the diagnostic port using bent paperclip or similar. (top row, when plastic cover is at the bottom) -the engine light will now flash the codes. Long gaps for multiples of 10, short gaps for multiples of 1. -to clear codes, bridge the same pins for 2+ seconds again, then turn ignition off, and then start engine and check that light is no longer lit.

If you're concerned about the transaction, I can vouch for the fact that Chang was great (and still is, when I hassle him about obscure parts for my 34) to communicate with, and my parts arrived in good time, superbly packaged to avoid damage, including waterproofing, in case they got dumped in 'the ditch' on the way over. They were as described, and even included all the little associated clips and things I didn't expect. I just did a bank transfer for payment.

Cross Factory, same as 4 posts up #209. It's just been modified in the way that peterw wants to change his Impul bar in post #202.

I'm not sure if you can send/receive PM's, so I'll ask here. I would be quite interested, based entirely on the cost of shipping to Adelaide, 5159. (perhaps see whether the rail system would carry it? I don't mind driving in Adelaide to pick it up, as I work on one side, and live on the other.) My number is 0411 544 307, if that's more convenient.

Hi mate, I sent a PM a week ago asking about some interior trim parts... Anyway, I want the Centre dash trim please, send me a msg on 0411 544 307 to say when I can pick it up. Need it before Christmas. And if you've got the shifter boot square in good condition, I'd like that too please (that the boot clips into).

couple from my collection of 4-doors

Are you replacing the Tein gear because it's worn out, or? I ask because Tein is a very developed and well established provider of high quality suspension, so unless what you have doesn't suit your driving style, or is broken/worn out, I wouldn't see any reason to change it. As for the rest of the stuff, it depends on how will have the car set up. If it is going to be slammed to the weeds, then you would probably benefit from having at least adjustable upper control arms, in order to correct the camber issues you will have, and probably different tie-rod ends to try and get some more direct steering action, avoid a bit of the bump-steer, etc. At the end of the day, the suspension is something you have to set up to most efficiently suit what you're using the car for, or you can just throw parts at it, and compromise your driving style to suit the setup.

Generally you can't buy replacement boots on their own, from my experience. That was the case with my S13 tie rod ends, and now my R34...hence my input to thread.

I got quoted $155.50 for a single front driver's tie rod end from Unley Nissan, SA. I'm now pursuing other options.

I've been browsing, and came across a company named 'Japtek', I was hoping to find someone who's had experience with them, or their products, and be able to share? (Their website is down for debugging.) Thanks.

Black R34 4-door GT with aftermarket wheels & factory foglights on Panatalinga Rd ~6pm, cruised with him for bit then went off to get my deli burger... Where I saw a VERY neat black S2 R33 with white starcorps, had a chat in the carpark.

Same size wheels as I'm planning to get -is that size all 4? -guard mods? -tire size? -how much lower did you go? and... more pics please? cheers.

I was recommended this book a year ago by someone on NS, bought it, EXCELLENT. It's old publication, yes, but the principles haven't changed. How to Make Your Car Handle - Fred Puhn

I neglected to mention that all my rack-spacer experience has been with mcphearson strut applications, where the hub doesn't hit the LCA from factory. For skyline specific info, listen to this man. Stock S12 struts & manual steering assy: S13 LCAs, knuckles, Tie rods & ends, R31 Castor rods. As above + 6mm Gktech rack spacers.

Would've if I had some...then I would have told you how much they weigh in my first post.

So a stock 17x7.5 GTT wheel weighs in at 11.69kg by my mental maths...yep? ...and a 17x8 Driftek could weigh anything between 8 and 11kg... ...and the brand new 18x10 Work XD9's in the corner of my dining room don't have the weight stamped on them, or labelled on the sticker...

Well if you just need the vinyl to fix your pillars, then I'm sure I can sell you some cheaper than they can Lemme know how much they wanna charge you. JRM: I'll be very interested in the results of your research could you send me a PM when they get back in contact with you, in case I forget to check this thread, lol. I don't expect the actual process to be especially difficult. I've had a look, and the factory vinyl is directly applied to the steel door frame. I believe that a careful approach with a heat gun (hair dryer if you need) to avoid damaging the adjacent rubber seals will allow the old vinyl to be peeled off. A new piece can then be applied, and trimmed 'in-situ' to perfection, ensuring that it wraps around a little. -Heat gun -Solvent (metho) & rag -Trimming knife -Soapy water for application & another rag. Charles: Sorry mate, I'm not prepared to send my two passenger side doors to Victoria for you to do them :lol: Once jrm has this quote he can compare that to your price though

So is this the recognised best product for external use? My R34 4-door's passenger side B-pillar factory carbon vinyl is very sun-damaged, and needs to be replaced, but I'm not sure what is the best UV/weather resistant product to use? I'm in Adelaide, so any supplier references would be good also.

Sounds like a bit of fun young lady...can I come for cruisies with you sometime? (it's Nato) Oh, and while I'm here, could you post the dyno sheet please? Matt (SNIPER) just got a Lewis engine built with -7's (I think) and I'd like to compare...

Myself (Black 34 GTT 4-door), SNIPER (Wine Red 32 GTR), and my housemate (Gunmetal 32 GTR) live in Happy Valley, within a km radius of each other. DSTROY is apparently not far from us either, and some other guy with a gunmetal 32 GTR is a common sight.

Always the way... I go interstate on the 12th, after asking 99_GTT about his MFD, and he replied, linking me to this thread, I get back and check my PM's today, follow the link straight immediately, and it's sold. Congratulations whoever bought it, well done. And if they fall through, please contact me, I'll PM my number.