nato_wp

As above, but with correct sentence structure and spelling.

If you looked two posts up, you'd have noticed both the AFM and the headlights are sold...

Brand New KU17 - Marshal by Kumho, still stickered, etc. 205/45ZR16 83W Traction A, Temperature A. $400 pickup from Happy Valley, 5159, or we can negotiate alternative delivery methods. Please contact me via 0411 544 307, as I don't get on here often enough to give you a prompt reply. BTW, selling because I bought them in anticipation of buying some 16" wheels, but in the end never did...

I agree with you. There is no point having anything higher than a 20amp fuse in your new circuit unless you've replaced the wires all the way to the pump terminal. Most people are getting current draw of around 10amps at the pump, so I don't see any reason to have a substantially higher rated fuse?

You mustn't work on very many trucks. All of the Diesel turbo trucks my employer uses (200-300 turbo trucks) have a pressure relief valve (BOV) built into the intake piping from factory, an essential piece of equipment to save a $15,000 engine if the wastegate fails to open under extreme operating conditions. (minimum, just for replacing the engine, not even considering downtime and labour) Replacing a $2000 RB motor fades in comparison of expenses...so you may as well block the BOV off, and sound cool Plus, there is no way that the group of engineers Nissan paid salaries for knew what they were doing back in the 90's.

I agree. Get a 4-door spoiler for sure, as the coupe ones just look too Fast and Furious. If I had my lip, I'd sell you my wing, and kill two birds with one stone...but I don't, sorry.

Really JRM? I put some white LED T10's in, which have a slight blue tinge. If that's a defect in SA, I may have to swap back, because that's a pretty stupid thing to get done for.

I need to replace an interior door handle on my R34 4-door, From looking at the replacement handle I have, there is a centre bolt/screw, and then 3 sliding tabs that connect it to the inner door steel. Problem is, once I've removed the screw, I can't get it to budge. There is also a small plastic clip-in piece that I'm struggling to get out, is there another screw behind that? I've got the lock and latch rods all sussed, I just can't get the old handle off the door!

If it's off your wrecking car, just swap the whole bootlid... Otherwise, get a measurement of how far down the light goes on your S1, then someone can get back to you how far the lip reaches down on their S2.

By the way, if you can't sell that armrest as a whole, feel free to get back to me on that one. Do R34's have plastic trim covering the seat mounting bolts? Mine doesn't...if yours does, add them to my packet of trim plugs please: (Driver's A-pillar trim - no markings! centre console hinge Door trim plugs x4 - stupid ones that you push in centre 4mm, then pull plug out. Boot trim plugs x5 - undo screw 4mm, then pull plug out. Seat mounting bolt covers xAll)

Being an R34, did it have Xenon Headlights modified at compliance? Mine did...by what appears to have been a thirteen-year-old crack wh***. All I know that whoever did the job definitely didn't care about professionalism or longevity of their work. Scotch crimps, many cut wires left bare, poorly done crimping with cheap components, incorrectly shaped globe adapter spacers, etc, etc. I've had similar 'bad earthing' issues, with all lights dipping when others are turned on & flashing in time with indicators, etc. I would closely investigate any wiring that was touched since landing in the country. If the car had those kind of issues in Japan, it would have either had the problem repaired, or an earthing kit fitted, they love those kits... I begin to understand the logic myself.

Mine does the exact same thing mate. It' will slowly get worse, to the point where the lights will only stay off from startup until you put it in gear, then straight on, and stay on. I've found that occasionally nailing it (wheelspin) can turn 'ON' TRC again (ie, lights 'off'). Rare. I think it's simply a broken wire, possibly transmission tunnel area, as I pulled the carpet up to dry it out*, and the lights went out for a day and a bit, but came back. I'm certain it's not a broken wheel speed sensor, as ABS still works fine. The ENG light occasionally (rare) comes on, and gives code 28, I have no idea what that refers to, I simply clear the codes, and it's fine. The first time I got this code was when I tried remote starting it in 'Drive', and the sensors denied start procedure. Other times haven't had a pattern. If I park facing downhill (only) and it rains heavily, the cabin air intake/front rain gutter area overflows near the driver's A-pillar and leaks into the driver's footwell (*hence \drying the carpet above ) Is this a common fault?

After the overwhelming number of responses with conflicting information, I rang my local friendly signwriter, got him to have a look at the car, and bought some vinyl that he recommended.

I'll take those driver's side handles, $12.50 posted? send me a message with your details on 0411 544 307.

Driver's side A-pillar trim to SA 5159, and centre console armrest plastic hinge please. Along with a handful of boot interior trim plugs, the ones that you screw out ~4mm then pull out the rest of the way.

$25 posted to 5159 for 4x interior door handles (only if chrome)....?

When you get to the stage of getting rid of that heavy MFD that's raising your centre of gravity, I call dibs. Seriously.

Nice work to the cruisers in Crafers BP... someone points out that one of your front tyres is flat...in a servo...and you do nothing, and drive off for a hillsy?!

I'll be heading down to grab a Snitty i reckon...introduce myself.

4 brand new 205/45/16 KU17's (Marshall brand by Kumho) $500 Bought them for a set of rims...that I didn't end up getting. FAIL. 0411 544 307 Happy Valley

Very impressed. It's the kind of stuff I used to do in High School, whole pages of patterns and shapes, wouldn't do it to a street car, but a track car? for sure. Love it, appeals to my pacific upbringing too.

I'm trying to accumulate a database of images showing different wheels/sizes/offsets on R34 GTT's. Sorry, GT-4's, GTR's not welcome, you have too many driveshafts... So, if you know your wheel details, add a pic or few, and copy/paste/fill out this: Wheel Manufacturer,Model: JIC,? Diameter: 18 Width F,R: 9.5, = Offset F,R: +15, = Tyre size F,R: 235/40R18, = Pictures: *thanks to MSPORTS180 for providing a detailed member's ride thread

After several years, I finally through my principles out the window and got a personal loan. A little history: Out of school, I'd been trying to keep an 1984 Gazelle on the road, first with a CA20 then with a CA18 and various suspension setups, and it simply wasn't viable as a Daily driver. I had crashed it once, foolishly (& expensively) repaired it. I had on-going engine problems since, and I was spending, on average, $200+ and at least one weekend every fortnight trying to keep it in drivable condition just to get to work. I still have it, and 'play with it' when I feel like it, but I'm no longer under pressure to use it daily. So, after a few nights of sitting down doing calculations, and a few months of researching and searching, R32's (my first love), JZX100's, XR6T's, R34's, and nearly buying an R32 4-door, (which I still like a lot) I found this pic on carsales of a fresh import: It had nearly every option I wanted from my R34; Black Full Factory Kit (actually a Nismo Aero front bar) GTT (it had to be RWD) 4-door Sunroof Series 1 interior (pre 2000) Premium Pack - Premium Audio - TV/Nav - Auto Headlights - Rear console drink holders Dead stock Only thing it wasn't was a manual, and to be honest, after driving it, I like it how it is. Suits my needs better. So, in September after about a week and a half, a 1500km roadtrip, a week of BS at regency, I had a driveway like this: To date: First things first, I got it booked into a workshop and replaced every fluid in it, machined the discs*, and put a set of new Bendix Heavy Duty pads** on it before they put it on the dyno to check that it was ok on Aussie fuel. (135rwkw btw) *I could feel that these were again warped after 2 days driving to work, and 0.5 of a hills run. I bought some DBA4000S for the rear, fronts and QFM pads pending finances, before I put them all on. **In my opinion, Bendix HD pads are terrible. I was recommended them as a good street pad with NO noise, and low dust. They are NEITHER of these. 2.5 weeks in, they were squealing under light braking in traffic, and always when hot. They are quite dusty. I will never buy bendix pads again if there is a better option available. Immediately after the workshop, it was booked into Tint-a-Car for some UV protection with a 25(!) year warranty. Since then, after a month of no audio because the Xanavi unit needed a reboot disc, I bought myself a birthday present: A complete GTR centre console stack, with the A/C controls at the top, factory CD in the middle, and a flip-open pocket at the bottom. Intalled it along with an FM expander, and had audio everywhere except driver's door. Later, after an afternoon of investigation revealed that a relay attached to the Xanavi Nav/TV system had the driver's door speaker wires lead to it. If that relay is unbolted from the xanavi unit, put back in the car and the correct factory looms connected, it WILL all work Future plans: Ensuring reliability and daily drivability are always first priority, a few cosmetic subtleties, internal and external. I plan to keep this for fair while, and am in no rush to do anything, especially not before it's paid off. The concept of the car is to be a reliable and comfortable daily driver, that is neat enough to park next to Merc's and BMW's without attracting death stares when I pick up my girlfriend from work, yet still have better than average performance, not attract negative attention from the authorities, but still be recognised by import enthusiasts for what it is.

I had a look at a couple of international brake manufacturers, and so far, based on my internet research alone... R34 GTT's are the only things in the world with 310mm x (22mm - I think, don't quote that measurement) rotors. let alone stud patterns, offsets... I looked into it, as I was considering changing hubs (thus stud patterns didn't matter), but want to keep my calipers... but that story is not relevant.

I'd suggest 60 in 1st, and 100 in 2nd be the limit...but if it's an auto, then just change the trans fluid and filter, then leave it to change on it's own...thats what a group of highly experienced engineers got paid to design it for. Unless you know better, of course.