Koya Drift Teks

[_Ryan_]

yeah thats both pretty fair points from both you guys, I like that about SAU, the general consensus of logical thinking over emotions.

I personally don't know if my TE37's are new or used given that I bought the car with them, they have gutter rash (FFS), but otherwise look fine. I personally don't like cheap rims, especially anything that can be bought from Tempe Tyres or Bob Jane, ESPECIALLY on a JDM car, and Koya Drifteks whilst looking better than your average BJ rim, are still an inferior copy of a Ray's LMGT4.

Tyrepower near me is rays dealer TE37's are now on the same level as all bob jane rims if we follow your logic.

[NISSAN GTR]

which one? ive been ragging on rota and other cheap shit for years.

new WORK EMOTION XD9 (MBG) FINISH are the go i reckon !

Edited December 1, 2009 by blingtr

[bozodos]

I personally don't see the point of owning a JDM car (EVEN a non GT-R 32-34) and putting el cheapo parts on it when in its original usage it's unlikely to be molested in this way.

You are partially right - I myself didn't buy an R32 GT-R because of the inevitable maintenence costs involved (ie rebuilding the motor LOL), but when it comes to bolt ons why skimp on quality? it's not going to be 6+k a pop like an RB26DETT motor. The other reason is the 1000 odd km I can rack up on a week when I'm working. I wouldn't like to subject a reletively rare car such as a GT-R to that sort of daily highway cruiser use, it's a waste. However with owning a GTS-4 like I do, the suspension and ATTESSA is common to the GT-R so it is a bit more high maintenence than a GTS-T.

To me using el cheapo wheels is like using an el cheapo turbo (shamefully I have to admit mine is still fitted with a KKR due to financial constraints), it might do the job but not as efficiently (with wheels relating mainly to the rotating mass), and without the cachet pursuant to a well made JDM part.

[bozodos]

RB_Ryan, I go by the tyre dealers in Mildura - the Goodyear where I go offers a limited selection of Enkei wheels, I highly doubt that that any will be selling anything from Ray's in the near future lol

[scathing]

when it comes to bolt ons why skimp on quality?

To me using el cheapo wheels is like using an el cheapo turbo, it might do the job but not as efficiently, and without the cachet pursuant to a well made JDM part.

Its a matter of being enough quality for your needs. Drifteks have "enough" quality for someone street driving their Skylines.

Lets put it this way.

If you're going to aim for quality and performance, and damn the cost, RAYS Engineering wouldn't even get a look-in. You'd be rocking out Dymags (magnesium spokes, carbon fibre barrels), or maybe HRE Carbon Series (forged aluminium centres, carbon barrels) if you're worried about magnesium fires.

Why skimp on quality and performance by settling for all-aluminium TE37s, CE28Ns or RE30s? Dymag Carbon Car Wheels have the cachet of containing both magnesium, so you can actually call your wheels "mags" without looking like a tosser with NFI, along with everyone's favourite racecar material, carbon fibre.

Plus, with carbon barrels, most of the mass will be centred at the hub. With lower unsprung mass and lower rotational inertia, efficiency will be far better than those shoddy Volks.

And they're made in Europe, not Asia. There's cachet for you.

[bozodos]

Well when you're getting down to the real nitty gritty, as I said I like to have JDM parts on my car, like the Ray's rims, they suit the stying of the car,and are a proven lightweight wheel that can withstand the rigours of any rack use; the HRE carbon wheels only come in two different styles, and as for the HRE and Dymag wheels, there is no information on the respective websites about relative prices delivered over here.

AFAIK I was under the impression that TE37's were a forged magnesium rim (incedentally I'd only be worried about fires if there was someone with a blowtorch nearby, aren't nearly all magnesium rims made with some kind of an alloy these days?)

If I wanted European cachet, wouldn't I fit say a Remus exhaust to my car instead of a Japanese brand?

[scathing]

Well when you're getting down to the real nitty gritty, as I said I like to have JDM parts on my car

What if people like having JDM-looking parts on the car, and money in the wallet? If you're talking about preferences rather than technical merit, apparently everyone's opinion is as valid as anyone else's.

there is no information on the respective websites about relative prices delivered over here.

The Tuner's Group imports HRE Wheels, so you could get delivered prices from him if you really wanted to. The prices I've seen online for HREs CF40s in 19" are USD$10,500 a set so that would give you an approximate idea anyway.

AFAIK I was under the impression that TE37's were a forged magnesium rim (incedentally I'd only be worried about fires if there was someone with a blowtorch nearby, aren't nearly all magnesium rims made with some kind of an alloy these days?)

The Volk Racing range are pretty much all forged aluminium. TE37s did come in a magnesium option (and an exclusive blue colour), but you'd know it if you had to pay for it.

I remember seeing a video of an FIA racer spinning off in the wet, and the wheels catching fire during the resultant accident. It was an old vid though, so chances are the wheels weren't a magnesium alloy.

If I wanted European cachet, wouldn't I fit say a Remus exhaust to my car instead of a Japanese brand?

I originally read that as you just wanting cachet, and Europe's brands have more of it than Japan's.

[bozodos]

Wouldn't you have to agree then that a brand like Volk racing might present the best value for money then since you're giving a rough price of $US10k for HRE rims!?

Having JDM 'looking' parts is like buying Ebay knock off intake plenums for example. Yeah it might function ok, but in the end it's still a counterfeit item with little to zero R&D, and the cachet of JDM parts of course

There is also the advantage with a lightweight rim that you're reducing the unsprung weight of the car. To quote Wikipedia (yes lazy I know)

"The amount of movement is inversely proportional to the weight - a lighter wheel which readily moves in response to road bumps will have more grip when tracking over an imperfect road. For this reason, lighter wheels are often sought for high-performance applications. In contrast, a heavier wheel which moves less will not absorb as much vibration; the irregularities of the road surface will transfer to the cabin through the geometry of the suspension and hence ride quality is deteriorated... High unsprung weight also exacerbates wheel control under hard acceleration or braking."

Edited December 4, 2009 by bozodos

[scathing]

Wouldn't you have to agree then that a brand like Volk racing might present the best value for money then since you're giving a rough price of $US10k for HRE rims!?

That will depend on your intended aims, and your budget.

If you've got a big budget race car and you're allowed to run CF wheels, then the HREs would be best. The strength will be as good as forged aluminium wheels (design dependent) HRE CFs will have the lowest unsprung weight and lowest rotational inertia. The best "value for money" when you're racing is whatever you can afford to go as fast as possible.

If you've got a small budget trackday car then something as light and strong Volks would make a good bet. Ligher and stronger than cast wheels, but not as expensive as carbon ones. They're a "compromise" wheel - something to get when you can't afford better but it might be unsafe to run worse.

If you've got a low budget street-only car (and there are plenty of people on here that have never done a track day in their cars), then you just want a wheel that meets with your aesthetic requirements. In that instance, I don't see a major problem with cheap wheels (as long as they meet whatever government regulations are out there, and/or they don't have a noticable reputation for failing).

I've buckled my TE37s on the street in normal driving (this is a different set of TE37s to the ones I crashed and bent) so their strength, while greater, is still not strong enough to survive Sydney roads. If I have to repair/replace wheels on a regular basis, I'd rather do it to cheaper ones. Especially if I had to stretch to afford the first set. Otherwise a broken wheel would have me off the road for far longer.

As for the lightweightness, since its a street-only car the lower unsprung weight will have a marginal effect. I'm not saying its not noticable, but for half the cost it's not enough of a gain (there's that "value for money" proposition you mentioned). You'll see some benefits in handling/acceleration/braking but since we're all responsible drivers here that don't condone street racing, you shouldn't be driving the car that fast in the first place

Edited December 4, 2009 by scathing

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

They might be inferior, but as long as they're "fit for purpose" then they're as good as they need to be.

As an analogy.......

My personal belief is that any R32-R34 chassis Skyline coupe that isn't powered by an RB26DETT are inferior copies of the GT-R (which is why I'd never buy one).

While I'll sometimes call them ricers over owning a car that looks like a fast car but isn't (generally when they're talking their cars up so much that they'd give VTEC fans a run for their money in the bullshit stakes), I can accept that the car meets their needs.

I'm sure almost all non-R owners would love a GT-R parked in their garage, but street cars they own get them around town reliably and comfortably at a price they can afford. There's a decent amount of power and handling, and aesthetics that suit them. Most will never use a GT-R to a point where its benefits over the lesser models become apparent in their existing usage patterns, and so all that extra extra engineering is unnecessary (and a waste).

I see cheaper wheels in the same way. I was looking at getting Drifteks for my MR2, but that's because it'll spend its life cruising around town. I don't plan on tracking the car more than once or twice when the tyres hit "end of life", just to see how MR cars handle, and if I take it up to the hills it'll mostly be with the roof off enjoying the country air. Most of the time it'll just be ferrying me around town. Mates of mine have them on their cars and they do touge/circuit/drift on them without issue. For how I'm going to drive the car, they would be good enough and almost half the price new as what people are asking for used LM GT4s.

except people that like to slide.... or simply don't want a 4wd car.

my non "R" makes more power than the average R, is lighter than the avarage R, and has cost more than the average R.

just food for thought for the "R" elitists...

a 33R is next on the menu for me, but only once i have a high powered RWD car aswell, so, i spose, when the ke70 is 100% finished

[scathing]

except people that like to slide.... or simply don't want a 4wd car.

Why not buy a RWD car that doesn't look like an infamous AWD car then?

[BASHO]

I wonder what is a copy/developement of what in the GT/GTT/GTR sequence ? I am only guessing but I would think that the GT would have preceeded the GTT and the GTT the GTR in the developement sequence.

I use these tags loosely as a reference to N/A, single turbo/twin turbo I believe for example with the WRX the good ole Impreza came first the Imprezza WRX second and the WRX STI THIRD in the chicken first egg second fowl third sorta chain of events.

I am also aware that in the olden days the very first sold minis were detuned from the pre production prototypes and John Cooper picked them up and made them go fast all over again and made nice quids doing it.

My new Enkeis are doing fine and have turned my previously somewhat leaden combination of Kingsprings and stock shockys into a nicely driveable ride.

[bozodos]

Scathing where do you drive that you manage to buckle a Volk rim!? I drive on worse roads than anywhere in Sydney here all the time lol.

[scathing]

Scathing where do you drive that you manage to buckle a Volk rim!?

I wish I knew, because I'd never go there again.

I didn't even notice, but when I took the car in for servicing they noticed one of my rear wheels was "out of round". It looks like its on the inside.

Its holding pressure etc so its not a major issue, but I am pretty sure it was round when I had tyres fitted to them a half a year before the service.

Edited December 8, 2009 by scathing

[_Ryan_]

Why not buy a RWD car that doesn't look like an infamous AWD car then?

Find me a good one...

[bozodos]

Toyota Chaser, Celsior, Nissan Laurel / Cefiro?

[BASHO]

I wish I knew, because I'd never go there again.

I didn't even notice, but when I took the car in for servicing they noticed one of my rear wheels was "out of round". It looks like its on the inside.

Its holding pressure etc so its not a major issue, but I am pretty sure it was round when I had tyres fitted to them a half a year before the service.

London to a brick one got dropped when the tyres were changed, happened to me with a set of brand new Momos didn't show up until I did over a 100kph.

They were 'out of the box' so I screamed and shouted till the supplier replaced it and let then sort it out with JAX.

[_Ryan_]

Toyota Chaser, Celsior, Nissan Laurel / Cefiro?

huge, huge, barge, old.

[joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo]

Why not buy a RWD car that doesn't look like an infamous AWD car then?

maybe i like the specs

maybe i like the look

maybe i got a deal i couldn't refuse

maybe i just don't car about pretentious gtr elitists

maybe i DO care and want to flaunt my horrid non GTR abomination in their faces

maybe i always wanted a skyline and couldn't afford an R

maybe it was a cheaper option that similar RWD cars to reach my goals

maybe it was given to me

maybe i needed a 33 gtst to fill in my collection of every skyline ever made

maybe it was the platform i was after for modification purposes

maybe i race in a specific category

maybe i had prior knowledge of RB's and wanted to build it myself

maybe i have a contact for cheap parts

maybe its because parts are more common that other models

maybe i like the masses of aftermarket parts available

maybe i like the aftermarket support available

maybe i saw one at the lights and decided that "i just need one of those"

maybe i had a bet with a mate

maybe i had a competition with a mate

maybe its for insurance purposes as i'm age x and cant get a twin turbo insured

maybe my parents wouldnt spring for a twin, but would purchase me a single

shall i keep going?

[astrotristan]

except people that like to slide.... or simply don't want a 4wd car.

my non "R" makes more power than the average R, is lighter than the avarage R, and has cost more than the average R.

just food for thought for the "R" elitists...

a 33R is next on the menu for me, but only once i have a high powered RWD car aswell, so, i spose, when the ke70 is 100% finished

so what exactly R you trying to say hamish?

R you implying you like your epic non R more than an R?

rwd = sliding fun = win =