Jump to content
SAU Community

Modified Sump Rwd Rb25det Into R32gts4?

WhatBrake

By WhatBrake,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

WhatBrake Collaborator

WhatBrake

Posted
Posted

Hey guys, I have an R32 GTS4 and i recently blew my little RB20DET sky high =P oops. (shitty oil pumps i say)

I'm wanting to get a new engine back in there, but obviously don't want to waste money on another RB20.

I was thinking of putting in an RB25DET manual out of a Stagea (or convert to manual if needed), but I was thinking was IS the difference between an RB25DET RWD engine and a AWD one? really?

From wot ive gathered it the sump studs in different places, but i could always drill that out and modify so perhaps a RWD RB25DET could b bolted straight in with sump modification into my GTS4, perhaps by modifying my RB20 factory sump or? Has anyone done this or heard about it?

It's obviously cheaper n easier to source a RWD RB25DET than one out of a generally newer Stagea, that are generally autos too...

If anyone could clear this up for me conclusively I will be extremely grateful!!!! =P

RWD RB25DET into GTS4 can it be done? I will do all the work myself with a mate including the engine swap. proficient skills. doable?

Thanks in advance,

Have a sweet one guys!

Sarumatix Veteran

Sarumatix

Posted
Posted

Really I would say you have 3 options, put another RB20 out of another gts4, put an RB25 out of a stagea AWD or an R26.

Converting to rwd is rather silly as you would be pulling out all the front drive, then replacing the suspension (at least a few parts) with gts-t items. In which case you probably would have been far better off putting another stock RB20 in and selling the car and just buying a gts-t :(.

Cjmartz2k Proficient

Cjmartz2k

Posted
Posted

Wouldn't one of the adapter plates the GTR guys use to put RWD RB30's into there machines work? Probably expensive'ish, but once you are over the initial hump, you can always use cheaper RWD RB25's. Those are like $300 back on Okinawa, but I assume a bit more there. Are stagea RB25's hard to find/expensive?

WhatBrake Collaborator

WhatBrake

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

Cheers guys!

The reason i ask this is because i have the tools n drill bits to easily be able to modify my RB20 AWD sump to an RB25DET RWDmaking it arguably easier to source and cheaper for me than a stagea 25. However some other kids have said u can pickup stagea RB25's cheap now, and I was assuming they'd b at least $2-3k, hence why I was thinking about modifying my sump. But apparently they're going for ~$1200 so i'l most likely go with that obviously! Still, I would like to know for general knowledge if it IS just the sump that's different between the AWD and RWD RB25's, i assume so at the moment but enlighten me if that's not the case =P

Thanks again, have a sweet weekend guys!

Edited by WhatBrake
D_Stirls Veteran

D_Stirls

Posted
Posted

you couldn't have tapped the holes in to the RWD block anyway because the 4wd blocks have a wider sump flange to fit the wider 4wd sump so you would have had to buy a 4wd adaptor. The 4wd blocks do have both sets of holes though, both 2wd and 4wd.

WhatBrake Collaborator

WhatBrake

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
you couldn't have tapped the holes in to the RWD block anyway because the 4wd blocks have a wider sump flange to fit the wider 4wd sump so you would have had to buy a 4wd adaptor. The 4wd blocks do have both sets of holes though, both 2wd and 4wd.

TRUE. I was wondering this, my mate said he knew the AWD had both sets of holes. But i wasn't sure if they did the same on the RWD's. Yeah so it looks like I'l need an adapter, which is what I was asking. Do u know how much an adapter would set me back? obviously if it starts adding up it may negate it being the cheaper/easier option. Still undecided depending on a few things, but stagea 25 prob b the go. Ive heard the neo can b anal with trans control or something? non-neo stagea RB25DET straight in. N could i bolt my RB20 sump onto that RB25 neo, or would this just be a waste of time?

Cheers guys.

Edited by WhatBrake
WhatBrake Collaborator

WhatBrake

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
just by that c34 engine off ebay. you can't go wrong for $1150

I just despise buying stuff like that off Ebay...Oh I see it's jdm performance. Good call. I'm assuming things - private seller.

Thanks! :P

Edited by WhatBrake
bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Did you use a 34GTT ecu?

The adapter plates are close to $1000 with a new pickup (I thought about mentioning this in the other thread but the costs aren't worth it unless going 3L.. rwd 25 + adapter > stag 25).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...