Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1997 Nissan Stagea, all running gear from a Autech 260RS, chassis has done 167xxx k's, engine is from a R33 GTR, unsure of exact kays but low.

RB26DETT

manual

Exedy clutch (15000k's)

Nismo suspension

Hicas Cancellor bar

HKS catback

Clarion CD player

Turbo timer

Autometer boost gauge

Full alarm central locking etc

Air con recently re-gassed with new reciever drier

Kuhmo KU31 tyres (13000km's)

HID's

New master cylinder

Full autech interior etc

Some more probably i cant think of

Has all the autech halfshafts etc, GTR rear cradle etc.

Will be fitted with R34 Gt-t brakes front and rear instead of the factory autech brembo's.

Im in Bunbury WA.

Have heaps of parts i can sell with the car.

$21,000

0419943997

15072009067.jpg

15072009068.jpg

15072009070.jpg

15072009069.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/296831-nissan-stagea-autech-260rs-replica/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
So is this pretty much a 260rs then???

4wd the lot???

any engine mods or suspension???

id be keen maybe, but WA is a long way from QLD but maybe work something out

Yeah man basically a 260RS, everything is from one. Yeah still 4wd.

Engine is standard bar the exhuast and pods, has nismo struts and springs.

Im happy to work something out.

Would you be interested in swpping? See the link this thread.

I am in Perth.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...t&p=5034159

I may be interested in a trade.

Sorry mate not really interested.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...