Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok... here's my life story

i had HKS hypermax 2s... the rear pair are f**ked so i paid a small fortune for Bilsteins and shit low King springs... the car always had rear camber issues so i fed it crap compliance tyres... all thru that time I went thru 1 set of fronts and countless sets of 90% 2nd hand rears... my driving style is shit too i suppose

ok years later i smashed the front left bilstein shock because i have a bad habit of not slowing down for speed humps

i found the HKS hypermax fronts in my garage and had them installed

to my surprise they are quite good... slightly rattley but better than the Bilsteins

my Bilstein rears are kinda leaking but not too bad - it's liveable

i have given up fixing the HKS shocks... (this is a stupid saga all in itself)

so my question is... anyone is sydney who can definitively fixed my rear camber? I called so many so called suspension specialists and it seems like I'm asking them to fit rocket boosters to a russian space shuttle. Many do not like the Whiteline camber kit either.

I thought about buying stock rear springs and getting a new pair of KYB (or whatever?) rear shocks or getting the springs fitted to my rear bilsteins? I dunno.

I realistically need a drive in, drive out, one day solution. Don't particular care too much about ride height (can go back to stock height and softness) as this car is a daily.

car is a 33 gts turbo

as you can tell I'm kinda over this whole bloody suspension caper

oh here's a story about how I feel... I got defected so I had to get a 'stock looking' exhaust. I talked to about a dozen exhaust shops and seriously... what a pack of retards. Not dealing with exhaust shops really made my day.

It was easiest for me to pick up a 2nd hand jap exhaust (Fujitsubo Legalis turned out to be) and get it fitted by a local mechanic.

chuck some adjustable camber arms on and get an alignment. the reason why shops dont like whiteline camber kits (the offset bushes) is because they are cunts to adjust as opposed to adjustable arms which are on-car adjustable.

give Wholesale Suspension a call out at Penrith. I made the trip there from Liverpool just to get my wheels aligned. theyve got a 60grand laser aligning machine and can do camber, castor, toe etc all to your specs.

oh btw ive got just jap adjustable rear camber arms and front castor.

steve, my cars a daily and has standard suspension but i think its sagged and the arms are fine. havent moved since ive got it done

feels alot better now mate. sadly i dont have any specs. i adjusted the camber myself when i installed them. only had a bit of negative on them but the boys said it was pretty far out. same with the front castor. lol. they asked me if i wanted any specific settings and i just said no, make it good for everyday. so im guessing 0-1 degree camber out back and the rest pretty true. just a guess though. lol

my rear tyres were rooted from camber wear until i bought the camber arms. havent had any problems with wear on the front though. sorry cant help ya there mate. if you do lower and have all the necessary adjustable parts, they should be able to make it fine. all i can think of is tyre clearance with rear guards if its lowered. if they straighten the camber, you may need to roll the guards.

Are these arms good for street/daily alignment when the car is lowered only 20-30mm?

whiteline arms are fine for street, they use a urethane bush.

offset bushes are cunts to use and i wouldnt recommend them to anyone.

whiteline arms are fine for street, they use a urethane bush.

offset bushes are cunts to use and i wouldnt recommend them to anyone.

So all I need to do is get rear or front and rear adjustable upper arms?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...