Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey well first off i went for a road worthy to change from qld to vic and i came up with 26 problems... :P sigh..

anyway i thinki got done for some standard things, so guys with S1 r33's let me know if your car does/has this or shed soem light on the matter.

-Tinted headlight. They are standard and have never been tinted they look like every other r33.

-Low beams go out when high beams are switched on.

Not to mention every boot in my car is f**ked :) sigh..

so if you could clarify those 2 it will take me down to 23 to fix :) already fixed one :)

Thanks, Nick. :thumbsup:

p.s looks like ima stay registered as a queenslander... :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/297550-roadworthy-are-these-standard/
Share on other sites

Hi Nick,

The low beam go out when high beam is normal for R33's, my old 33 25t does that.

Tinted h/lights - put up a picture of the front so people can tell you whether it is standard or not. Going by your description, maybe ask other RWC tester for 2nd opinion.

Also, 26 problems?! I never had this much problems needed to rectify before!

Cheers

Grant

Nick,

Yes they're standard headlights dunno why the tester told you to do something about it, time for different RWC place me thinks.

Cheers

Grant

Nick,

Yes they're standard headlights dunno why the tester told you to do something about it, time for different RWC place me thinks.

Cheers

Grant

As i thought lol.

Also does the low beams going off meet aussie regulations and standards?

and... where do i get like r33 bump stops, ball joint boot, and just boots in general.. brand new?

As i thought lol.

Also does the low beams going off meet aussie regulations and standards?

and... where do i get like r33 bump stops, ball joint boot, and just boots in general.. brand new?

Maybe you have tester on bad day or something cos most of the lighting system on 33's (my old 32 does that as well) are behaved like that, there are a mod that you can have both beams switched while high beam is activated - there are couple of threads on DIY section somewhere.

As for new suspension bits, try Nissan or Pedders or any suspension places, even give some traders on this forum a go.

Hope all it helps - obtaining a RWC is a huge pain, thankfully you're in Victoria so you only have to do once (unless you get canaried often).

Cheers

Grant

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Was going to say the car pulls up nicely everywhere, especially going into that last long right hander before the main straight. Looks like a lot of fun.
    • Hey Dave, welcome aboard! Good to see another soon-to-be Stagea owner here. The wagons are awesome — plenty of space, still got that Skyline DNA, and loads of potential if you’re into mods. Definitely post up pics when you get it, everyone here loves seeing new builds. What model/year are you looking at?
    • See if you can thermal epoxy a heatsink or two onto it?
    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
×
×
  • Create New...