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Hey guys, I've been a member for a while and have followed the postings here. I need some advice on a rebuild that I'm about to undertake. I recently spun bearings 1,2,5 on my rb26. I bought a brand new crankshaft, ACL bearings, CP pistons, and will be buying rods as my stock rods have burn marks where the bearings fit. My question is, apart from getting a new oil cooler, what work should I do to the head? I looking to make my car streetable with some track days of course, so my limit would be 550 to 580 whp and that's my absolute max. The car that its in is a 240sx.

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Have you not read the oil control thread? 33 pages of goodness.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...&hl=control

As a side note - how you anticipate have 400rwkw "streetable" in a RWD chassis? Let alone around a circuit...

This is why I said "absolute max". I may end up tracking the car full time, but that would be further down the road. My thing is I don't want to pull the engine out after this build. Maybe my thinking is naive and hence the reason I have posted my question here, because you guys have way more experience than I do. I have read a part of the oil control thread, and I intend to read every page of it, my main question really is how much work is recommended to do to the head? The reason for my question is that my engine builder is suggesting removing the vavles along with cleaning the head. I know the head has to be cleaned due to the possibility of metal from the bearings being present, just wanted to know how much head work is needed. Thank you for the quick response tho.

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Please don't take that thread as gospel. A LOT of people (including myself) think that there is no "oil stuck in the head" problem, and that a lot of these RB26's with spun bearings are due to poor sump design. Ever notice how the majority of spun bearings are on 26 engines? Much different sump design. Tomei even advises not to use a restrictor on RB's with hydraulic lifters. By all means, read the thread and decide for yourself, but keep an open mind.

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^ I've got something that will set that straight, or make it worse ;)

If you have the head mods done, and overfill the sump by 1ltr - which is commonly accepted these days... to overfill.

Then you can circuit a RB26 with a factory sump without making mincemeat out of the bearings.

Even without the head mods if you are circuit running you need overfill.

I know a fair number of cars that ran like this without issue for two seasons, some have since stopped (not sure to failures or anything like that).

Some still run, they now have larger sumps etc, however fact remains they ran without issue and we highly competitive.

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Ok, I'm in the process of reading the thread you sent to me, can somebody tell me what head mods are necessary after you have spun bearings or to put the question another way, what work is required to be done to the cylinder head after spun bearings?

Clean it, inspect the cam journals for wear marks due to debris.

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Clean it, inspect the cam journals for wear marks due to debris.

Whew thank you very much!! Been reading the 33 page post all night while eyeing this thread for a response, all i need to get now is a brand new factory oil cooler. By the way I'm up to page 21 reading the post you made about the engine builder.

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Have you not read the oil control thread? 33 pages of goodness.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Oi...&hl=control

As a side note - how you anticipate have 400rwkw "streetable" in a RWD chassis? Let alone around a circuit...

Ok, two things ..............read every page of the link again and did not find anything to answer my question, my project is ongoing so the next stage is the all wheel drive system we have streetable 240sx running upwards of 620hp here and it is streetable not to say I'm goingfor that.......just to let you know. Thanks.

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