Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Parts Clearance

adzR34
 Share

Recommended Posts

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
Posted

Hello everyone,

Due to my latest turbo upgrade ive decided to place these parts up for sale and finally clear some valuable garage space for the holidays. :D

All items are in Sydney, pickup is preferrable but can arrange freight if required.

The first item for sale is the standard R34 Turbo (OP6 rear housing, see pictures), which is in excellent condition with no shaft play and intact turbine fins. Removed at approx 70,xxxkm's. This would be an ideal upgrade for the RB20 series engines or those seeking the most potent highflow for the R33's. Price: $400 neg

Apexi AFC NEO (colour)

I can strongly reccommend this piggy back unit to anyone seeking to extract the most from their standard turbo under a responsible budget. Most noticable after the tune was a dramatic increase in fuel economy and power output of 205.5rwkw @ 11.5psi. Note, this was on my R34 auto which does sap a tad more power than the manuals. Price: $340 neg

Advan Performance Split Stainless 3inch dump/front pipe to cat. I bought this item from Advan Performance for $370 1.5 years ago and it truely is a work of art. It is very similar to the BOSS split dumps as it has the long seperate wastegate runner to reduce rear turbulence and compliment any highflow exhaust. Price: $200 neg

R34 Rb25 Neo Air Flow Meter Price: $40

Due to work commitments i might be limited to responding to your PM's in the evenings, so if you require any further information or best pricing, plase send me a PM and i will do my best to handle your enquiry.

Thanks for viewing,

Adrian

post-33690-1259471219_thumb.jpg

post-33690-1259471252_thumb.jpg

post-33690-1259471274_thumb.jpg

post-33690-1259471300_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298205-r34-parts-clearance/
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
aluckyguy Enthusiast

aluckyguy

Posted
Posted

Gday mate. Nice set of stuff you have there. I have a fairly stock R34 Gt-T Auto (bar cat-back Blitz exhaust) and am wondering how the Apexi AFC works, as in are there any other things that may need to be done to install it? Do you remember how much it cost you to have it installed or did you do it yourself? Just lastly how low are you willing to go on the dump/front pipe? Unfortunately the other thing in factor is i live in Brisbane. Any information would be appreciated, as im new to a lot of this and am hoping to gain a little more power in acceleration. :ninja:

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Gday mate. Nice set of stuff you have there. I have a fairly stock R34 Gt-T Auto (bar cat-back Blitz exhaust) and am wondering how the Apexi AFC works, as in are there any other things that may need to be done to install it? Do you remember how much it cost you to have it installed or did you do it yourself? Just lastly how low are you willing to go on the dump/front pipe? Unfortunately the other thing in factor is i live in Brisbane. Any information would be appreciated, as im new to a lot of this and am hoping to gain a little more power in acceleration. :P

Thanks for your interest,

The Apexi is fairly simple in the way it works and part of the reason why i went with it was my car was an auto. Its a pretty simple device as it alters the voltage from the air flow meter allowing the tuner to correct the air fuel ratios's when you increase the boost pressure. I had it done professionally to make sure it was right and dyno tuned to suit my car.

The box includes everything needed for the install; the unit and instructions. From memory i think it cost me ~$300 for install and dyno tune which is pretty cheap considering the gain i got throughout the rev band and the slight increase in fuel economy.

Mate, honestly the dump pipe is a work of art if you see it in person and there is absolutely no fault with it, its stainless and it would last a very very long time. I cant really do much with its price as it hurts selling it for this low.

Also, i am able to post at buyers expense.

If you have any more questions, even in general things ill try my best to answer them. I remeber being in your shoes 4 years ago :cool:

Adrian

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Apexi AFC in good condition, no problems ?

Hey mate,

Was in excellent working order when it came off my car. It only came off as i upgraded my turbo. It pretty much gets you to the maximum u can see out of the standard turbo, a real terror on the streets :P

adrian

V'z 34GTT Contributor

V'z 34GTT

Posted
Posted

hey Adrian,

if you can post the airflow meter at my expense consider it sold. providing there aren't any problems with it.

thanks

Veranga

Here is my mobile, just contact me through that. 0431 001 101. thanks

adzR34 Collaborator

adzR34

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Hey mate, has the turbo been boosted? Thanks.

Hi mate,

Yeah it has slightly, between 11 and 12 psi is what hi boost was tuned to. I had a dual control boost controller so most of my daily driving was on the standard setting. From what i gather on these forums about 15 psi is the limit you would want to push out of this stanard turbo for a cetain amount of time.

With that said, ive inspected the shaft/blades and can state that they are solid.

If there are any further questions im happy to answer them.

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...