Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just got my car serviced by a performance workshop here in Sydney, and I asked them to check out to see if they could fix my rough idle while they were at it. They had a heap of WRX's out the front and I heard they did job on Skylines, so I was eager to give them a go.

They replaced my spark plugs without asking if I wanted copper or not, but that's ok. They changed my air filter even though it was clean, but that's fine also. I don't care about that - they were trying to fix my idle.

But when they forget to do up half of the vacuum hoses after taking the crossover pipe off, you gotta wonder. Here I was the next day driving home from work, gave my car a little boost, and all I could feel was my car doing nothing special and hear all this air going everywhere (after which the engine stalled). The hose going from the intercooler to the crossover pipe had blown off, and the hose clamp wasn't even done up. I looked some more, and half of the other vacuum hoses had their clamps just dangling around the pipe.

Luckily, the owner of the house I'd "parked" in front of came out to see what was the matter, and after a bit of mucking around with a pair of pliers and a shiftey we had it running again. I gave the engine bay a throurough check over when I got home, and attacked all my hose clamps with a socket set (and yeah, the others were pretty loose too)...

Am I alone in thinking this is a little unprofessional?

BTW - they didn't fix my idle - they said they couldn't work it out...

i'd be goin back for my money and if they didn't give me some sorta refund for the troubles and possible damage to my engine i'd be goin straight to the consumer commission / better business beureu and any one else i could think of... that's just plain bullsh#t for a workshop...

Hah! And yet some more! They didn't put the electrical plug on the TPS back in properly, so my car karked it today after it shook loose. Luckily I knew how to run the ECU diagnostics, otherwise I would have had to get the car towed back home. The plug just clicked back in and now it's nice and secure again.

On a positive note, they did refill my windscreen washer bottle, so it seems they did something right.

Anyway, if anyone's thinking of going to a "performance" shop in the eastern suburbs let me know and I'll tell you who not to go to.

You paid for a service and by the sounds of it they put you at a risk by driving a car that had not been set back up properly. I would confront them ask for my money returned, if they declined I would ring up the Office Of Fair Trading and lodge a complaint against their business.

Backup - it's against the rules, man. But you can PM me. I do believe I asked for suggestions for a performance workshop in the Maintenance forum though :D

Anyway, if they don't give me my money back who would be the best to call? Office of Fair Trading, or isn't there a auto-mechanic body?

Backup - it's against the rules, man. But you can PM me. I do believe I asked for suggestions for a performance workshop in the Maintenance forum though :D

Anyway, if they don't give me my money back who would be the best to call? Office of Fair Trading, or isn't there a auto-mechanic body?

don't waste your time trying to prove anything because you have fixed problem, so no real proof (you could use man that helped you as wit). it is just so hard to prove mech workshops haven't done what you asked, over charge, even bother to replace what they say which is very sad but fact. fair trading might give them a call but that's it, so best option is ask them wtf & you can gauge by what your told how things will unfold. don't think your only 1 because i asked advise went to workshop out west & if was wild west they would be dead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Por que no los dos? At least my euro brawler is reliable - unlike the JDMs I've had. Sheraaz you look familiar, did you ever come to an SAU VIC meet aaaaaages ago?
    • Drove to Cape Schanck to try to get a nice clear southern view over the ocean to see the lights a couple of days ago... instead got crappy cloud cover. Photo of a diorama of Hong Kong street scene. Taken on an iPhone 13 Pro Max.
    • Stock RB fuel pressure is near enough 43.5 psi, so the latency in that table at 31.6 will be close. You can see that 7 or 8 psi equates to about 0.4µs extra latency. So if you wanted to interpolate between the 31.6 and 39.9 psi values you could say you're going up about 2 psi out of those 8, so add about 0.1µs, which is barely worth talking about and is quite possibly wrong because ideally you would fix the latency while running at the appropriate conditions on the dyno, with a wideband sniffing its butt.
    • The pressure, is what you set the fuel pressure to. If you have the factory fuel reg, you'll need to find the factory spec. I don't know it off the top of my head, but someone else might.
    • For others, what GTSBoy states here should be paid attention. Why? Well lots of people play with different engines, and they LOVE to change things like remove AC, or steering pumps etc, and it lends to them needing to move the tensioner too. You want your tensioner, particularly those that are sprung or hydraulically tensioned, to be the first thing after the harmonic balancer, or technically the "last" pulley in the chain. By saying last pulley, I mean look at the direction the crank spins when the engine is running, follow the belt from where the crank is pulling the belt FROM, and keep following that until you're between the last pulley/accessory on the belt and about to reach the crank again, this is the spot where you put the tensioner. This is the area that will always end up with slack. This is worked out exactly the same way for chains too, as the physics is the same for them. The crank pulley is where all the force to drag the belt around comes from. You will never ever get rid of the slack that appears, especially under load. The tensioners job is to keep the belt loose enough when stationary that there shouldn't be out of sync movement in slow movement, and then be tight enough when running, that the belt can't jump off any gear and get damaged. Too tight, bad things happen, too loose, bad things happen. Have a tensioner (mainly sprung/hydraulic one) in the wrong spot, it can't actually do anything about keeping the tension.
×
×
  • Create New...