Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Wondering if yous can clear something for me, does anyone know of/if any physical differences from a ER34 auto ecu loom compared to a manual loom? I have a ECU problem that no one can pinpoint.

cheers

Have no idea about the loom, however the ecu internals are different as the auto unit has the automatic shift logic to control.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298747-r34gtt-ecu-loom/#findComment-4968272
Share on other sites

Have no idea about the loom, however the ecu internals are different as the auto unit has the automatic shift logic to control.

Further investigation found the loom is ok auto/manual all the same. What I have found though, when I install a powerFC.

Pin 48 has a 0.01v reading (Power supply for throttle position sensor, refrigerant pressure sensor, and turbo pressure sensor) causing:

pin 23 to be 0.01v

pin 51 is 4.7v

pin 53 is 0.01

but if i install my oroginal ECU all voltages on all pins are correct.

e.g. Pin 48 = 5.2v

Pin 23 = 0.45v (no throttle)

Pin 51 = 3.4v

Pin 53 = 4.7v

Anyone know why the PFC wont output the correct values?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298747-r34gtt-ecu-loom/#findComment-4971619
Share on other sites

are you trying to use a power fc on an auto r34 gtt?

if you are, thats most likely the reason you arent getting the right values.

powerfc and auto wont work in an r34. do a search and you'll see its been covered before.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298747-r34gtt-ecu-loom/#findComment-4972840
Share on other sites

Hi guys,

the ER34 was a Auto from factory but was converted to manual before I purchased it. This weekend I took a drive to visit a mate 300k away and tested in his ER34 manual from factory and have the same result. Im now suspicious of the ECU itself which is unfortunate since I purchased it from a SAU member :P am searching alot of posts to find a repairer but thanks for the feedback guys :)

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298747-r34gtt-ecu-loom/#findComment-4973236
Share on other sites

Sorry I should have asked in the previous reply, Since the PFC runs the car does anyone have any circuit board knowledge on these that can suggest why pin 48 would not have no output whilst some pins output is higher then they should be?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/298747-r34gtt-ecu-loom/#findComment-4973613
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...