Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I would like some expert opinion, if possible, to my problem.

I'm designing a new off road racer, trophy truck, full spaceframe, independent front, 3 or 4 link rear axle, 20-26 inches of suspension travel, somewhere in the region of 2 - 2500kg all up weight.

I researched using a Skyline some 8 years ago back in the UK, but the rework on the gearbox for my design made it a non starter, now I'm out here, older and hopefully wiser and am investigating drivetrain options.

The norm is 355 chevy and a TH400 auto box, but I'm not for following the crowd....... like to push the envelope somewhat. Yeah its painful sometimes but success brings so much satisfaction.

I have been scouring this forum and many other websites, looking for answers, but having no experience in the nissan arena I thought it would be best to geti into the open and put my problem forward.

So if anyone has opinions, ideas, technical and any thoughts on the matter, i would be most appreciative.

I've attached a naked photo and a fully dressed photo so you have an idea of where I'm at.

I thank you in advance......

Nige

Yakboy

Rise to the Challenge !!

post-68917-1260171443_thumb.jpg

post-68917-1260171526_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299245-engine-gearbox-selection/
Share on other sites

why are they so heavy?

Hi battery, the yanks build them like tanks because desert racing, baja mexico especially is the roughest terrain where the punishment on the frame and components is extreme. Their average size is some 2.2m wide, track width and 3m wheelbase, add on body work so that gives you an idea of their massiveness !!!!!

I'm not building mine to that extent because I have to go around trees and follow narrower tracks that our smaller buggies have to fit around. Mine at the moment is 2m by 3m on the outside,of the bodywork. I design for power/weight ratio and go as light as possible but not compromising on cage safety or strength where its needed.

I forgot to say on my first post that I'm restricted to 6L engine capacity, so something like a 2.8 turbo multiplied by 1.7 (turbo factor ) gives me a total capacity of 4.7L thereabouts...... but i'm looking for reliability, availability of spares, ease of maintenance and relatively cheap......

just looking for poeples ideas and opinions for a good strong engine/gearbox combo that might be able to handle what I do......

Loads of racers in the buggie classes run SR20's and they are virtually bullet proof........

Anything can be made to fit !!!!!

cheers

nige

just looking for poeples ideas and opinions for a good strong engine/gearbox combo that might be able to handle what I do......

Loads of racers in the buggie classes run SR20's and they are virtually bullet proof........

Anything can be made to fit !!!!!

cheers

nige

There are loads of boat and buggie motorsport vehicles utilising VH41/45 VK56 V8's. What sort of hp torque were you looking for? what sort of climate will you be racing in? If you plan running forced induction in hot climates have a good look at methanol.

Have a look at this for some ideas:

http://forums.nicoclub.com/zerothread/323706

J.

Vh or vk45de ..destroked to 3.5 litres + twin turbo's = :rofl:

Lightweight torque monster & different to the chevy option...you could use an adapter plate to mate pretty much any gearbox that will handle the punishment.

What kind of budget are you working with ?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
    • I've got MCA Blues on my V36 Skyline, and while I've managed to sort out issues with scrubbing/bottoming out by raising it a smidge and increasing the damping hardness, the rear end still sounds *super* noisy when driving on anything other than the flattest surface imaginable. It sounds like a small party of flamingos are just chatting away in the back, which makes me think there are several link points in the suspension contributing to the noise. Am I hearing dried out/worn bushings? None of it sounds like metal-on-metal, it sounds more like hard rubber squeaking on metal. It's been suggested that a bit of silicon spray on each bushing might quiet them down, but I'm not sure what material the current bushings are made of (probably factory, I imagine) and whether silicon spray will degrade that material.
    • The obvious answer here is get a ND2/3 RF with the Targa top. The red is nicer, too!
×
×
  • Create New...