Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb24s To Rb24e

arielvtpma

By arielvtpma,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

daisu Mentor

daisu

Posted
Posted (edited)

Probably need a few more sensors, exhaust Oxygen sensor, Throttle position sensor, distributor compatible with EFI?

Should be able to get any of these parts off an RB30E (if they are available to you).

Otherwise, install an RB25 head/ecu/loom etc convert it to twin cam.

Edited by daisu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299365-rb24s-to-rb24e/#findComment-4976475
Share on other sites
arielvtpma Rookie

arielvtpma

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Might I ask why you're wanting to convert to injected mate?

head is very similar if not the same as RB30E head available here in australia.

I want to get rid of carburetor setup.

It also will be a learning experience.

What do you think?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299365-rb24s-to-rb24e/#findComment-4976691
Share on other sites
arielvtpma Rookie

arielvtpma

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Probably need a few more sensors, exhaust Oxygen sensor, Throttle position sensor, distributor compatible with EFI?

Should be able to get any of these parts off an RB30E (if they are available to you).

Otherwise, install an RB25 head/ecu/loom etc convert it to twin cam.

Thanks.

I have looking on the web and is is difficult to find the rb30e parts conversion... any

suggestion on where can i find parts. In latin america it is really difficult.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299365-rb24s-to-rb24e/#findComment-4976702
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Using a RB30 head, you will lose compression.

You will also need a high pressure EFI fuel pump.

Have a "talk" with Steve at Speed Technology - www.efihardware.com - they have all the stuff you will need. Would look cool with a set of "Weber" manifold and trumpets.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/299365-rb24s-to-rb24e/#findComment-4993847
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Murray_Calavera
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      This sounds like a perfect excuse to install a Haltech R3.
    • Kinkstaah
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • GTSBoy
      Rusty roof repair

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • GTSBoy
      first time swapping rb25det into r34

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • WR33KD
      Ogura orc1000f vs Osg tr2cd vs Osg r3c experiences, max torque/max hp?

      By WR33KD · Posted

      I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
×
×
  • Create New...